Alibro said:
I started the adapter plate today. :)
I first made it in cardboard, then transferred it to the alloy with about 5mm added all the way round just in case. ;)
View attachment 223722

View attachment 223723
I used the circular saw for the first few big cuts but I think I killed the blade so had to resort to the grinder and jigsaw.
It's a pity as the Circular saw was doing a great job while it lasted.

View attachment 223724
The garage was a mess when I finished and I'll not be cutting on the bench again. :eek:
Click to expand...

That dust gets everywhere ...

Did some cement board in a bathroom a few years back, never again ...
 
You'll obviously know about the special considerations when working with Ali, such as it tends to clog the stones / disks? Consider using Carbide Burrs in a router, with suitable collets, for following your contours. Carbide Burrs are usually for die grinders, and are 1/4" shank which isn't a typical router size, but you can get reducing collets for routers.
 
Jayridium said:
You'll obviously know about the special considerations when working with Ali, such as it tends to clog the stones / disks? Consider using Carbide Burrs in a router, with suitable collets, for following your contours. Carbide Burrs are usually for die grinders, and are 1/4" shank which isn't a typical router size, but you can get reducing collets for routers.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice Jayridium.
I knew alloy was a pain to cut and that grinders are not good at cutting it but after the steel cutting blade gave up the ghost the jigsaw was hopeless so grinders with 'supposedly' stainless 1mm disks were all I had. To be fair after finishing off one grinder which had overheated a few months ago I was able to use a second one to trim the edges back to get the general shape. The inside hole and curves on the outside were always going to be difficult so I'll look for some carbide burrs like you suggest.
 
Alibro said:
I started the adapter plate today. :)
I first made it in cardboard, then transferred it to the alloy with about 5mm added all the way round just in case. ;)
View attachment 223722

View attachment 223723
I used the circular saw for the first few big cuts but I think I killed the blade so had to resort to the grinder and jigsaw.
It's a pity as the Circular saw was doing a great job while it lasted. :(

View attachment 223724
The garage was a mess when I finished and I'll not be cutting on the bench again. :eek:
Click to expand...

A carbide tipped circular saw should have no trouble cutting aluminium Ali. If it feels dull now, then it's likely to have "picked up" alloy on the cutting edges. This is likely if you cut the material dry, as aluminium does that.
It's always best to cut aluminium with a lubricant applied to the surface, I use WD40 for this, but kerosene works well too.
 
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Nodge68 said:
A carbide tipped circular saw should have no trouble cutting aluminium Ali. If it feels dull now, then it's likely to have "picked up" alloy on the cutting edges. This is likely if you cut the material dry, as aluminium does that.
It's always best to cut aluminium with a lubricant applied to the surface, I use WD40 for this, but kerosene works well too.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately I think it is now missing a few tips. :oops:
It is an Evolution blade meant for a mitre saw but I found a centre adapter that allowed me to fit it to my circular saw. It is the best blade I've ever had and cuts timber as well as metal, and is especially good for cutting plywood as it leaves a really clean edge so I'll order up a new one, the blade that was in the saw when I got it ripped the edge of plywood really badly.
In the meantime I'll put my new pillar drill to use for the centre hole drilling a ring of holes and will probably use the jigsaw to link them, but have ordered some end mills and carbide burrs to finish it.
This thing will be in the bowels of the engine bay probably hidden by batteries and the inverter etc so I'm not going to waste too much time trying to achieve perfection.
 
Evolution blades are very good - I've been super impressed with the ones I've used. I can't recall whether there is alloy-specific blades off the top of my head? But you're into the next shaping phase now, and that carbide burr in a router sounds like a good suggestion to me :)

BTW How heavy is the VAG vacuum pump?
 
rob_bell said:
Evolution blades are very good - I've been super impressed with the ones I've used. I can't recall whether there is alloy-specific blades off the top of my head? But you're into the next shaping phase now, and that carbide burr in a router sounds like a good suggestion to me :)

BTW How heavy is the VAG vacuum pump?
Click to expand...
I bought a router about 15 years ago and have only used it once so I'll give it a try.
The vacuum pump is very light, probably half a kilo or less.
 
Alibro said:
I bought a router about 15 years ago and have only used it once so I'll give it a try.
The vacuum pump is very light, probably half a kilo or less.
Click to expand...
Thanks - apologies, just interested! I have a stripped out MGF that I shall be converting to direct to head throttle bodies (I have made up an inlet manifold to make use of GSXR600 throttle bodies). Vacuum on these is poor at best - so hence the thoughts regarding a pump! Don't VAG diesels also use a vacuum reservoir? Or is it built into the pump on this one?
 
I think a reservoir is required but I'm hoping my Freelander one will do. I just have an odd feeling it would be nice to be able to use something out of the Freelander engine bay. ;)
 
Alibro said:
I think a reservoir is required but I'm hoping my Freelander one will do.
Click to expand...

The FL1 will hold sufficient vacuum volume Ali. Although you'll need to see how well the small holes can keep up with the demand of repeated brake presses. However being that you'll likely be implementing some kind of regen, I imagine the brakes will be used very lightly.
 
rob_bell said:
Just came across this thread, as I would like like to retain a clutch if going to an EV conversion and retaining the standard gearbox - and there may be some advantages for doing so: https://www.diyelectriccar.com/threads/clutch-vs-clutchless.14163/
Click to expand...
I would have preferred to have the clutch but I figured this is my first effort at an EV so keep it simple stupid. It would be a major job to fabricate an adapter plate that would accommodate the clutch.
Much easier to get Nodge to make me a coupler on his lathe. :p
 
Johnny is now going to EV his wife's Figaro!:eek:


Should be worth a watch, although ZeroEV aren't exactly a budget go to company. :(
 
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