oonegative · Apr 1, 2018

Hi, new member here having some electrical issues with a 2003 Freelander TD4 Kalahari. Hoping someone can point me in the right direction.

Symptoms:

Driver side rear door window doesn't go up or down.
Near side front window goes down but not up.
Driver side rear door locks but does not unlock using central locking keyfob (manual pull handle is ok).

What I've checked:

Removed door card and visually inspected for breaks in the wiring. All looks ok.
I've purchased a 2nd hand D/S rear window mechanism (all in one including the motor). I removed the original and connected the new one (without fitting to the door) and nothing happens when I push the window switch up or down.
I've tested the 2 wires which go to the motor (red+ blue) and it appears there is no power.
I've checked fuses F27 (drivers rear window) and F33 (near side front window) with a multimeter and both appear ok.

I've also purchased a 2nd hand lock mechanism for the DS rear door but haven't gotten as far as attempting to fit that. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I should check next? I've read in other threads that because 2 of the 4 windows are working correctly it is unlikely to be the relays which are at fault. Is this correct?

If I need to provide any more info for assistance let me know and I'll post what you need.

Thanks all!

Alibro · Apr 1, 2018

Sounds like lots of separate issues not connected but certainly none of them are unusual
Does the rear window operate from the front switch but not the rear? Is the passenger window switch lock on or off? Have you tried the replacement mech on a known working connection to prove it is OK, i.e. the other side?
Have you checked the cables on the NS front? Could also be a dodgy motor but the cables fail frequently.
Rear door lock is probably a mech. Get a used one off ebay.

oonegative · Apr 1, 2018

Cheers for the response Alibro.

Alibro said:
Does the rear window operate from the front switch but not the rear?

No, it doesn't work from either of them.

Alibro said:
Is the passenger window switch lock on or off?

The lock is off and the nearside rear window works ok, only driver side affected of the 2 rear windows.

Alibro said:
Have you tried the replacement mech on a known working connection to prove it is OK, i.e. the other side?

I hadn't thought to try that. I will definitely try that tomorrow, weather permitting.

Alibro said:
Have you checked the cables on the NS front? Could also be a dodgy motor but the cables fail frequently.

I haven't had a look at the NS front yet. I started with the rear and immediately realised I was in trouble!

Alibro said:
Rear door lock is probably a mech. Get a used one off ebay

Sounds like a plan. Any tips for removing the old one. There are 3 torx screws holding it in place but with those removed I can't get the mechanism out. It's really tight working inside the door but feels like the button from the top of the door is holding it in place. I've had a feel inside and can "pop" that out but it seems there is something else preventing it from moving. can you recommend any good guides, preferably with pictures of what I'm trying to feel for in the door?

Alibro · Apr 1, 2018

oonegative said:
Cheers for the response Alibro.

No, it doesn't work from either of them.

The lock is off and the nearside rear window works ok, only driver side affected of the 2 rear windows.

I hadn't thought to try that. I will definitely try that tomorrow, weather permitting.

I haven't had a look at the NS front yet. I started with the rear and immediately realised I was in trouble!

Sounds like a plan. Any tips for removing the old one. There are 3 torx screws holding it in place but with those removed I can't get the mechanism out. It's really tight working inside the door but feels like the button from the top of the door is holding it in place. I've had a feel inside and can "pop" that out but it seems there is something else preventing it from moving. can you recommend any good guides, preferably with pictures of what I'm trying to feel for in the door?

Been a while since I did one but the button cable should pop out as you say and the handle cable is the only other thing holding it in place. It's a bit daunting but just go for it as they go back in easier than you expect.

saxavordian · Apr 1, 2018

Sometime it down to the switch itself being knackered. I have had a whale of time blood pouring from an bald patch. Try finding a good window toggle switch that does work okay.and unplug that to test with faulty windows. Lock itself also could be knackered too and needs replacing. I did a passenger side one and learned a new trick in cursing the fitters at Land Rover

Alibro · Apr 1, 2018

saxavordian said:
Sometime it down to the switch itself being knackered. I have had a whale of time blood pouring from an bald patch. Try finding a good window toggle switch that does work okay.and unplug that to test with faulty windows. Lock itself also could be knackered too and needs replacing. I did a passenger side one and learned a new trick in cursing the fitters at Land Rover

One of the switches was my next suggestion. They're pretty easy to take out so you could try one of the other ones.

oonegative · Apr 1, 2018

Alibro said:
It's a bit daunting but just go for it as they go back in easier than you expect.

Haha ok, it's the handle cable that is still attached then that makes sense now. I'll try to get that out then just give it a tug.

Alibro said:
One of the switches was my next suggestion. They're pretty easy to take out so you could try one of the other ones.

Thanks, I'll try this too. Should help to narrow down the problem. Cheers lads.

saxavordian · Apr 2, 2018

To remove the lock itself it best to removing the door handle to see the cables outside. Believe me i was doing a three stooges act by the time i hot the blighters back on.unplug the power source first then locate the door handle by hand an undo that second next the gutter frame for the window to slacken then the torx screws remove the lock mechanism.

oonegative · Apr 2, 2018

saxavordian said:
To remove the lock itself it best to removing the door handle to see the cables outside. Believe me i was doing a three stooges act by the time i hot the blighters back on.unplug the power source first then locate the door handle by hand an undo that second next the gutter frame for the window to slacken then the torx screws remove the lock mechanism.

Perfect, this was what I needed. Glad to know I'm not the only one who has had a struggle getting the bugger out.

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