Shore968

Member
Hi everyone

I've got a 60 plate freelander 2 and had to have a new rest diff a few months ago, got a rebuilt one from Bristol transmissions, we were also told we needed a new heldex unit and was quoted 1500 plus vat, couldn't afford that after just having the rear diff done so got a second hand one. It's still under warranty but since going in getting jolting when doing full lock and if towing or boots loaded up, does this sound like the heldex unit? Is there a way I could disable it to see if it's the heldex unit and would it be doing damage to the new rear diff as got sheep to move on Wednesday.

Thanks in advance
 
Unfortunately the replacement Haldex has a sticky or dirty accumulator piston, which actually can't be fixed. This is an issue which is getting more evident on the Gen4 Haldex as they age.

Why did the garage say you needed another Haldex? If it's not causing judder, then there's nothing wrong that can't be fixed.
 
I thought it might be the heldex unit or possibly how it was put in, as some places say it needs to be installed in a certain way and thought it could effect it. Do you think pulling the fuse in the boot for it will be ok until I can work out what to do, as I could try and send back the dodgy heldex unit but need to get some sheep moved first this week and don't have another towing vechile.

The garage said that the rear diff had messed up the heldex unit with bits of metal in there, did wonder after considering i learnt theres a filter in there. Never had this problem until the diff had been changed with the second hand heldex unit in.

I've still got the old heldex unit the garage removed but I don't want to get it back on and screw up the new rear diff if there is something wrong with it. Would there be a way to check it out do you think?
 
First off, the juddering Haldex will do more damage to the rest of the system, so it either needs replacing or pull the fuse in the boot until you can get it sorted.

I've not heard of metal from a diff getting into the Haldex, as there's a double lip oil seal between the two components. My year old diff was absolutely destroyed, it even locked up solid at 40 MPH, but not a spec of metal got through the double oil seal.
I'd be cleaning the original Haldex and refitting it to be honest. Unfortunately there's no sure way to test a Haldex, except on the vehicle.

They only take an hour or so to swap, so fitting it to test it isn't really a big deal.
 
I thought it might be the heldex unit or possibly how it was put in, as some places say it needs to be installed in a certain way and thought it could effect it. Do you think pulling the fuse in the boot for it will be ok until I can work out what to do, as I could try and send back the dodgy heldex unit but need to get some sheep moved first this week and don't have another towing vechile.

The garage said that the rear diff had messed up the heldex unit with bits of metal in there, did wonder after considering i learnt theres a filter in there. Never had this problem until the diff had been changed with the second hand heldex unit in.

I've still got the old heldex unit the garage removed but I don't want to get it back on and screw up the new rear diff if there is something wrong with it. Would there be a way to check it out do you think?
Hi There,

Now that you have a spare Hadlex, Have a look at this video as it will go a long way in explaining the problem and ways of possibly fixing it. He also sells or can service any bits you cant.

 
Hi Shore968.
As above have a look & read of Matt's video and explanation what can go wrong with the Haldex, i recently sent him my ECU & N3737 valve, three day turn round and my FL2 is now fixed no more grabbing or scrabbling from the Halex.

Have a look at my thread here.
 

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