Update, I decided to take a chance and just replace the actual locking assembly. I bought one off ebay for the very fair price of £38.99!
After unclipping the trim cover from inside the boot I managed to work it down low enough to get to the three Torx screws and undo it.
As it was still locked onto the striker I had to force the tailgate open to release it which took some effort as the lock assembly is mounted in a sort of sleeve in the framework. You have to do this from the inside as you can't get a good grasp from the outside.
Once I could view the lock from the outside I found that by using a large screwdriver to the right of the striker I could lever the lock open to release it.
To my great relief once the new lock was fitted it worked perfectly and the 'tailgate open' message on the display disappeared.
The car also now locks ok.
To be honest, I managed it in less than an hour with much of that time struggling to get the trim panel back on whilst above my head!!
 
Well done. For reference what was the part number of the item yer replaced?

From the link below: LR014184
 
Last edited:
Hi peeps - my 2012 FL2 has the 'boot wont open problem' - theres nothing jammed in the mechansism and there is no noise when i press the keyfob tailgate release. Does anyone know the fuse position number please? The helpful (!) handbook lists everything but...TIA
 
thank you for this - F25 is listed as a rear fog light in the book but i tried it anyway. It is the rear fog light and the fuse was okay. However the boot opened upon replacing the original fuse so not sure what happen there!! Thanks again
 
Vissie said:
If it wont open using the keyfob tailgate release button. Then you need to check the fuse for the taildoor cdl.

Goto the passenger front footwell, remove a little cover that sits on the front of a white box (cjb). This will expose the internal fusebox. There is a fuse on the lower row a few in from the bottom left. It will be a 7.5amp fuse. Check this to see if its blown.

If it is , let us know !
Click to expand...

Thanks for this, it was a 10amp fuse in mine,
this problem has been dogging me for a week,
Also the fuel flap wouldn’t open either,
Asked the question on a Freelander group in Facebook and never got the right answer then remembered great old landyzone
Thanks again
 
Vissie said:
If it wont open using the keyfob tailgate release button. Then you need to check the fuse for the taildoor cdl.

Goto the passenger front footwell, remove a little cover that sits on the front of a white box (cjb). This will expose the internal fusebox. There is a fuse on the lower row a few in from the bottom left. It will be a 7.5amp fuse. Check this to see if its blown.

If it is , let us know !
Click to expand...
Thanks for this - checked and the 10amp fuse was blown - all now ok. This was very helpful. For those not having time to locate and fix - you can still lock the car with the key in passenger door, and still unlock with th key fob
 
All, I have this issue now also. I checked fuses and all are good but boot won’t open. If I try fob it must move slightly as I then can’t lock doors until I “fiddle” with boot for a while. It seems to me that boot latch is not disconnecting but I can’t tell if the “plastic” cover over rear door can be removed while door shut and locked and do not want to cause damage. Can anyone advise?
 
Great help here - thanks.
My tailgate lock issue is with a 2009 model and it started with a not fully locked warning and my partner rushed out and pushed the closed tailgate!
That enabled locking but perhaps has pushed any obstruction to be more firmly embedded!
Tried some of the solutions here and my friendly Land Rover agent came up with a solution to resolve the locking issue.
Why don't you use the manual key clipped into the remote ignition switch to operate the lock on the passenger side?
That's the immediate and easy answer to locking the vehicle! OTH it would be difficult to undertake on a dark night without previous practice or experience. The separation of the key from the ignition needs nimble strong fingers and you might not appreciate that to remove the cover to the lock you have to insert the key to the underside of the plastic cover!
From the point of view of an 81 yr old pensioner access to the fusebox under the dashboard in front of the passenger seat is not easy!
In the end I finished side seated on the ground but found the fusebox cover impossible to remove. The instruction manual advises lift one side and twist the other. I note that professionals at some time had not been able to make a perfect refit of one side!
Given up - to the friendly workshop!!! :)
 
Hi
New member here.
I have the same problem when I unlock the vehicle with a double push everything opens including Filler cap but not boot.
If I operate boot only on fob it opens. I am thinking probably the micro switch (which I can hear when I operate) under the black rubber cover on boot lid. Any other suggestions welcomed with open arms.
 
Parkyboy said:
If I operate boot only on fob it opens. I am thinking probably the micro switch (which I can hear when I operate) under the black rubber cover on boot lid. Any other suggestions welcomed with open arms.
Click to expand...

The boot microswitch is a known weakness, but there are 2 other ways to open the boot, so you've plenty of time to get another switch assembly and fit it.
 
Chris Richards said:
Update, I decided to take a chance and just replace the actual locking assembly. I bought one off ebay for the very fair price of £38.99!
After unclipping the trim cover from inside the boot I managed to work it down low enough to get to the three Torx screws and undo it.
As it was still locked onto the striker I had to force the tailgate open to release it which took some effort as the lock assembly is mounted in a sort of sleeve in the framework. You have to do this from the inside as you can't get a good grasp from the outside.
Once I could view the lock from the outside I found that by using a large screwdriver to the right of the striker I could lever the lock open to release it.
To my great relief once the new lock was fitted it worked perfectly and the 'tailgate open' message on the display disappeared.
The car also now locks ok.
To be honest, I managed it in less than an hour with much of that time struggling to get the trim panel back on whilst above my head!!
Click to expand...
Just wanted to pop on and say thank you for this old post, my tailgate was shut, when i operated any of the buttons to open it there was a horrible clacking for 2 seconds which sounded like a stripped gear or something broken. I did have it booked in at my local indie but the fact it was sitting out on the road unlocked was keeping me awake. I wizzed down the road to the main dealer who had one in stock for £85+VAT but it saved me waiting for one to be delivered and i have to have a bit of peace of mind knowing it was a genuine part with a guarantee that wasn't in Cantonese. Followed your instructions and job done, although i had to break the plastic top off the mechanism to get to the locking lever to detach it from the receiver on the sill. I was right, broken plastic worm driver.

thanks again

kal
 
Triggahippie said:
I did have it booked in at my local indie but the fact it was sitting out on the road unlocked was keeping me awake.
Click to expand...

Technically the tail door is always locked, and only released by the motor when it's powered from the CJB.

At least it was an easy fix.
 
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