Hello All,

Some advice for a newbie to the site would be appreciated on a starting problem with my 1998 Freelander 2.0DI which I think is the rover engine.... I could be wrong..?

In a morning it takes a few turns of the key to start but once it has been started it will strike up first time for the rest of the day.

I have been told this may be a problem with fuel draining back to the tank but not sure if thats correct.

Many Thanks

Luke

Your engine is Rover L series 2 litre diesel.

When you try starting is there any white smoke for the exhaust? If there is I suspect your glowplugs are shot, if no then it could be the fuel drain back. If this is hapening then the fuel system has a leak somewhere. One way to test this is tomorrow before you attempt to start, open the bonnet and give several squeezes of the fuel priming bulb which is the black ballon shaped object on the passengers side of the engine bay, high up on the rear corner. If your jack is in place then its next to that. This will force prime the fuel system. Once done try starting, if it fires up straight away then it looks like you've found the reason, if not then its back to the glow plugs.

Many thanks Darmain, I will try that tomorrow and let you know what happens.

Cheers

My pleasure and Good luck.

Right then... I tried pumping the fuel through this morning as you suggested but that made no difference. I called the guy I bought it from last week and he says he has had new glow plugs fitted within the last few months. Gettin worried now! Any other suggestions?

Thanks

Luke

Ok. When you start cranking it, look back to see if there is white smoke being ejected from the exhaust. If this starts almost immediately then the fuel system is probably okay.

The new plugs can still be faulty, the fuse may have gone or the relay that drives them may be faulty. To test the supply requires a volt meter connected between the back of one glow plug terminals and the chassis. 12 V should be present as soon as the ignition is switched on.

See how you get on with this.

Great thanks, I have a voltmeter so will test tomorrow. Yes when cranking over there is white smoke coming from the exhaust.

Thanks for the advice.

Luke

OP - just had exact the same problem with my L series, same symptoms as yours, sometimes it would not start at all on the coldest of mornings we have had recently.

Last weekend I replaced the glow plugs and its fixed now, starts every time. After I removed them I tested the old glow plugs and found they were not lighting up at all hence the starting problem.

Don't skimp on the glow plugs - get yourself some decent ones, the £16-a-set offers off fleabay aren't worth it, get some NGK's or original ones from your local Land Rover dealer, they are only £11 each.

FYI - I also changed the glow plug relay as suggested by one of the previous owners - £10 from a dealer

We recently changed our glowplugs as the non-genuine set we replaced last year gave up the ghost.

After replacing the three we can get to easily we discered there was no power to them anyway! The relay had been thoroughly dunked and mudded (how could that have happened?!!?!) so a new one sorted that.

And it now starts so quickly, sometime I don't realise I have even turned the key.

Cheers

Blippie

Lukejpearson said:

Great thanks, I have a voltmeter so will test tomorrow. Yes when cranking over there is white smoke coming from the exhaust.

Thanks for the advice.

Luke

Click to expand...

Luke, as the others are stating it looks like your fueling is working as it should but there is a lack of heat to get things running quickly. Your glow plugs are the prime suspect as is their source of power. Your voltmeter check is the first plce to start before getting the checkbook and the spanners out.

Good luck.

Thanks for eveyones replys. I will check the source of power I think firstly as the previous owner said he had the plugs changed for some bosch ones about two months ago.

I have ordered a new relay as it was only 15.00 pounds with delivery and it cant hurt I suppose.

I am sure people have seen this site before but just incase... They are good for parts and have a really good off road track. Check out the link they are based in West Yorkshire

Land Rover Parts, Accessories, Sales in West Yorkshire, UK - Simmonites

Hello All,

Following advice from a few members (Thank you) I replaced the relay for a new one and checked power to the plugs. Power is fine and the relay made no difference.

I am getting white smoke while its cranking over. This only happens first thing in the morning and once its been started it's ok for the rest of the day.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Many thanks in advance.

Luke

I fear, for all the avoiding the possibility, that some or all of your glowplugs have failed. You obviously have power at the plugs but the symptoms suggest they are not getting hot. If you have access to a digital multimeter then, disconnect the wiring loom from all plugs. Measure the resistance between each plug terminal and the engine block. I calculate you should be seeing a value of 1 ohm or less for a good plug. If it measures above 10 ohms then the plug is dead and needs to be replaced.

Thanks Darmain. I must admit I do agree with you it would be silly to assume the plugs are ok and the guy was telling me the truth! I will do the resistance test tomorrow and get a set of new plugs.

Thanks again.

Luke

The guy may have told you the truth. It could be just a bad set of plugs, after all they are in a pretty hostile environment.

Hi Darmain,

thanks for the replys.

Something interesting. I checked the power to the plugs last week and was sure I had it there but checking again yesterday to make sure and I could find nothing. Not even a slight surge registered on the meter.....

Am I doing this right? I am putting the positive terminal of the tester onto the top of the plug and the negative terminal onto the engine block/earth to the body.

Also could you tell me where the relay is for the plugs? I have seen three relays under the bonnet, two yellow and one black. I am guessing the black one is the correct one but guessing is not something I like doing with things like this.

Funnily enough this morning under 6 inches of snow it started fine!

I have ordered some new plugs so will fit them aswell. I am hoping replacing the plugs and relay should solve the problem.

Thanks

Luke

As I'm at work at the moment I don't have to hand the information regarding the relay.

However.....

Your connection of the leads is correct. Be sure you have a good connection to the metal of the engine block, or alternatively connect the negitive probe to the negitive terminal of the battery (Thats the one nearest the wing).

To diagnose the problem.

First thing to do is, with the ignition off, and with the battery disconnected. Disconnect all the leads to the glow plugs. Set your meter to resistance range. Connect your probes, positive to the tip of the left hand glow plug, negitive to the engine block. Make sure there is good pressure on the probes as the resistance value you are looking for is so small that the contact resistance of the probe will affect the result. The reading should be between zero and one ohms. If its higher than ten ohms then there is a problem with this plug and it needs replacing. Do this for all four plugs. If any one is defective then it is best to replace the lot and hold the good ones from the old set as spares.

Once all plugs are tested and replaced as necessary then reconnect the wiring. Ensure the connections are sound as any resistance will cause damage due to heat. Reconnect your battery and close the back window )). Set your meter to DC volts. Connect the negitive probe to the battery negative terminal (one nearest the wing). Connect the positive probe to any one of the glow plug tips. Switch the ignition on and quickly observe the meter (Don't start the engine). For a good 10 seconds there should be a value approaching 12V and not less than 10V. If not, as you have previously indicated, then there is a problem with the glow plug control circuit.

Two possibilities are the relay is defective, or the fuse as blown. As I said I don't have the data to hand at the moment to identify the relay or the fuse, however both will reside in the high tension fuse box next to the battery. I will have a look for it tonight if I can.

Good luck,

Dave