Philbee
Member
Ok thanks Nodge for putting me straight on that one. I'll go back to my original theory then it could be a CCU fault, hopefully not to return.
Cheers Philip
Ok thanks Nodge for putting me straight on that one. I'll go back to my original theory then it could be a CCU fault, hopefully not to return.
Cheers Philip
Hippo
Lord Hippo
It's one of those situations where you have to wait and see if the fault returns. Update us if it does. If yer car engine was starting and driving then there were no alarm or immobilisation problems. Fingers (paws) crossed and hope it doesn't return.
The rear wiper is the clue here. It will stop working if it thinks the tail gate is open. If it's closed, opening and closing confirmed to the car it was open then closed, and the wiper started working and the horn sound on locking then stopped. It just goes goes to show how good Freelanders are, when they know how to fix themselves.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Just a thought. Have you noticed any water on the driver's footwell?
The CCU has been known to get wet from a leaking windscreen, and water on the circuit could well cause all sorts of odd problems.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Between the leaking heater matrix and fishtank, there's a lot of water ingress into the cabin on my motor and a lot of condensation.
When I've been looking round the fuse box area in the past, I've noticed how it condenses on the metal work around there and probably runs/drips onto something that's going to cause problems 1 day!
Philbee
Member
It's one of those situations where you have to wait and see if the fault returns. Update us if it does. If yer car engine was starting and driving then there were no alarm or immobilisation problems. Fingers (paws) crossed and hope it doesn't return.
The rear wiper is the clue here. It will stop working if it thinks the tail gate is open. If it's closed, opening and closing confirmed to the car it was open then closed, and the wiper started working and the horn sound on locking then stopped. It just goes goes to show how good Freelanders are, when they know how to fix themselves.
Hippo
The car was starting and driving with all the original posted problems. There was no physical immobiliser or alarm restrictions, but there was no indication either as to whether they were working or not when the car was locked. There were no normal flashing car side indicators or flashing red dashboard light signaling the imobliser and Alarm were working, so I assumed they were not?
Everything crossed for the future?
Philbee
Member
Nodge
I haven't noticed any water in the foot well, but will have to keep my eye on it. Also check around the wiring for signs of water from heater or windscreen.
Thanks guys
Hippo
Lord Hippo
Do you know if they were working previously? I assume the red led was flashing when alarmed previously. Leave it as it is to see if it comes back.
If it were mine I would be tempted to test the alarm: sit in it, lock it with the fob (driver window pen to allow escape just in case), then sit and wait for 20 seconds while it waits for the air to settle while it takes a measurement of the air movement, then move about to trigger the volumetric alarm. The alarm should go oft when you move about. Use the fob to cancel the alarm.
Philbee
Member
It's one of those situations where you have to wait and see if the fault returns. Update us if it does. If yer car engine was starting and driving then there were no alarm or immobilisation problems. Fingers (paws) crossed and hope it doesn't return.
The rear wiper is the clue here. It will stop working if it thinks the tail gate is open. If it's closed, opening and closing confirmed to the car it was open then closed, and the wiper started working and the horn sound on locking then stopped. It just goes goes to show how good Freelanders are, when they know how to fix themselves.
Hi Hippo problem is back!! Wife went out in car dropped two front windows as they were misted up, now can't raise them.
List of things that don't work.
Electric mirror glass adjustment, radio, all windows, central locking, red imobliser light flash, all internal lights, heated rear screen, rear windowscreen wiper, and wiper/wash, clock, air-conditioning.
Tailgate dash switch down operation, gives 4 beeps but won't drop.
Tried to recalibrate tailgate by disconnecting
negative battery terminal and waiting 20 minutes. Reconnected battery, tailgate window won't drop so calibration must have failed, tried twice. Should both battery leads be disconnected together?
What does work
All warning lights and engine heater light with ignition on, all doors opening (but only manually), horn, heater blower, cigarette lighter, reversing lights and all external lights and indicators, also hazards.
All main engine compartment fuses ok, and all internal fuse box fuses ok.
No open door red warning lights on, and rear wiper in correct parking position on rubber.
Note:
Clock has now come back on? But when the ignition is on, clock goes off again??
No water in the foot well.
Key only locks and unlocks Drivers door only, doesn't reset alarm or imobliser. Car drives normally.
Now been without car over Christmas as it's under a tarp due to gales and heavy rain.
Any help grateful accepted. Philip
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Were the windows misted on the inside or out?
If its on the inside, there's obviously a fair bit of moisture in the car. As I said above, I've seen moisture condensing on the metal framework around the fusebox & CCU - might be worth having a look to see if there's damage there.
If its on the inside, there's obviously a fair bit of moisture in the car. As I said above, I've seen moisture condensing on the metal framework around the fusebox & CCU - might be worth having a look to see if there's damage there.
J_D
Well-Known Member
Do you have any instructions on removing the ccu?
Also can it be opened to look inside for water damage?
Do you think its condensation as opposed to water dripping on the ccu from a leak above thats an issue?
Can the ccu be relocated at all?
I ask to help the op mainly, but also I get condensation as well and think it may be worth checking on mine before any faults.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
No, I've never removed one. I was thinking about checking the connectors for starters. Its all pretty tight up there under the dash. I'd have a look in the Rave manual for advice on removing it. If you don't have a copy, there's info on downloading it here...
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/rave-disk-maintenance-manual.260227/
Nodge says above about windscreen leaks dropping onto the CCU, I don't think that's the case with my motor. When I've looked at the area the wetness is an even spread of 'wet' over the (cold) metalic parts.
As big as it is, I shouldn't think your condensation comes from a wet (short haired) Doberman jumping in the car
Our shaggy Springer definitely drags in a fair amount with him. But its mainly a leaking heater matrix and water getting in round the back door on mine that causes the worst dampness in the car.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
As for relocating it - there's 100s of wires going to it - it'd be a massive job to change its location I'd have thought. If it is water causing problems, you might be able to cover it in some way with plastic, so the drips escape in a 'safer' route.
Or indeed - fix the condensation/leak issue.
Or indeed - fix the condensation/leak issue.
Philbee
Member
Hi Grumpy, checked with the wife she said I got it wrong. It wasn't condensation , it was rain on the outside of the window, and she couldn't see out to miss the car parked right up tight to our driveway.
That's why she dropped both front windows.
Is there anyway that rain could get in and onto the CCU from the bonet hinges/engine compartment, only we have had some pretty severe gales and rain on both occasions before the fault occured?
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
No idea I'm afraid.
Philbee
Member
Further update on previous problems.
Day after Boxing, went out to check car for water getting in under the tarp with all the windows open and our rain and gales. Opened the car on drivers door key, central locking back working and everything else as well. Raised windows while I had the chance. Lost tarp and used as normal for two days. Third day went shopping, problem back can't get in the boot again
Same old problems, but now I have found something else which may be relevant to the other problems, or maybe not?
If you put the side lights on at the back, side lights work ok. Turn side lights off, put break lights on lights work fine along with tailgate light.
Now if the sidelights are on and you put the break lights on, passenger side break lights and same side sidelights go off!!
Also something else I noticed, when the ignition is off, the clock works. When you turn the ignition on, the clock goes off.
I am at a loss with it all now,. Local 25 mile away Landrover specialist ( so they say) can't fit it in until February!!
Very tempted to scrap it now, what's the point if it's not reliable when I stick the key in.!!
Terrible shame, been brilliant last 20 years, reliable, runs sweet as a nut even now when it works. Only got 125k in the clock BMW engine probably good for 500k but car probably only worth 1k if lucky.
Only started playing up this year, but now so many annoying issues, that I don't seem to be able to solve.
Can anybody suggest a possible reason for this new situation, and could it be the reason for the same previous faults, and if solved could possibly be the solution to the other faults?
Cheers Philip
Day after Boxing, went out to check car for water getting in under the tarp with all the windows open and our rain and gales. Opened the car on drivers door key, central locking back working and everything else as well. Raised windows while I had the chance. Lost tarp and used as normal for two days. Third day went shopping, problem back can't get in the boot again
Same old problems, but now I have found something else which may be relevant to the other problems, or maybe not?
If you put the side lights on at the back, side lights work ok. Turn side lights off, put break lights on lights work fine along with tailgate light.
Now if the sidelights are on and you put the break lights on, passenger side break lights and same side sidelights go off!!
Also something else I noticed, when the ignition is off, the clock works. When you turn the ignition on, the clock goes off.
I am at a loss with it all now,. Local 25 mile away Landrover specialist ( so they say) can't fit it in until February!!
Very tempted to scrap it now, what's the point if it's not reliable when I stick the key in.!!
Terrible shame, been brilliant last 20 years, reliable, runs sweet as a nut even now when it works. Only got 125k in the clock BMW engine probably good for 500k but car probably only worth 1k if lucky.
Only started playing up this year, but now so many annoying issues, that I don't seem to be able to solve.
Can anybody suggest a possible reason for this new situation, and could it be the reason for the same previous faults, and if solved could possibly be the solution to the other faults?
Cheers Philip
Haha lmao it seems to me like your ccu is working then not. If it were me I’d be looking up the wiring diagrams and figuring out that modules powers and ground/s. Ten next time issue appears start testing. It can’t be a coincidence that everything that’s failing is run by the same unit. Also if you find that it’s dry then stop wasting time looking for water. It seems to be a power supply problem or earth problem, maybe even canbus/van network type problem.
A friend of mine used to have intermittent immobiliser problems with his convertible. I figured out removing one of the under dash fuses and reinstalling it made the problem disappear. Later the problem never returned. Maybe was a bad fuse contact.
But anyway, follow logic to find the answer. If everything that’s failing is controlled by one computer/ecu then check it’s gwtting power and earth or it won’t work.
I’m pretty savvy at these things so can maybe help.
Cheers
A friend of mine used to have intermittent immobiliser problems with his convertible. I figured out removing one of the under dash fuses and reinstalling it made the problem disappear. Later the problem never returned. Maybe was a bad fuse contact.
But anyway, follow logic to find the answer. If everything that’s failing is controlled by one computer/ecu then check it’s gwtting power and earth or it won’t work.
I’m pretty savvy at these things so can maybe help.
Cheers
Just looked up the diagrams on race and their pretty useless tbh. It’s shows everything connected to the ccu but It doesn’t seem so show where it gets it’s power and ground in the diagram. I’ll keep looking as I think you’ll find the issue there. There must be info of its plug pinout somewhere.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
These problems are almost certainly a single fault. If the car is otherwise reliable and you're happy with it, it would appear a gamble to out it just for this to get something that may turn out worse.
I would have thought that this is a job for an auto electrician rather than a LR mechanic.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
The wiring diagrams in the Rave manual are very comprehensive. It will show everything you need to know.
It also has pictures of connectors, earth points etc so they can be located easily.
Unfortunately it doesn’t have that info at all unless you an point it out to me. The circuit diagrams for the ccu show the inputs and outputs of other circuits but do not show where the module itself gets power from or where it earths to. There are 3 pages for it in the manual an no diagram shows that info. I’ve spent an hour at it today already.
