Hello i have brakes seized up, in front only i believe, because they get really hot when i touch them, also they make a loud screeching/squeaky when i drive, especially in reverse.

I first thought it was caliper guide pins, but i took away grease and put new silicone grease but still didnt fix.

After that i changed calipers both front and still same issue…

Pls help

If the brakes are only making a lot of noise and not sticking (stopping the Freelander from moving) maybe take a look at the stone guard, which rusts and can bend and scrape against the moving parts.

I have in the past, had an issue with brakes seizing, even though the caliper is free and working.

I found it to be the flexible hoses that had collapsed internally, acting like a one way valve. Letting pressure to be applied when pressing the pedal, but not letting it off when the pedal is released.
Worth a look.
Cheers

MULDERKE said:

I have in the past, had an issue with brakes seizing, even though the caliper is free and working.

I found it to be the flexible hoses that had collapsed internally, acting like a one way valve. Letting pressure to be applied when pressing the pedal, but not letting it off when the pedal is released.
Worth a look.
Cheers

Click to expand...

I changed both hoses front as well, the old ones did not look too bad either

I recently filed down a bit of the brake pad ears and it is more loose inside but still a bit of resistance, is there someone who can give a reference of how much they are supposed to slide freely between brackets??

Also when i filed i noticed they seemed to lessen the squeaky sound a bit.. but as ive changed the caliper and brake hose infront it seems to be braking better or it feels better than before

However when i filed i also noticed a bit of vibration, is this bad for the car or? I dont know what else to do to stop brakes from seizing…….

It's only the brakes. Getting the file out to willy-nilly take bits off can't harm anything.

Making the pads loose within the caliper, vibration when in use - erm, ah, its only the brakes

I might suggest that if you think the pads are faulty, for the sake of other road users, it would be more prudent to buy another set.

If you undo the bleed nipple and the (unmolested) pads push back nicely, then presumably its not the pads.

Installing new calipers without any wear and good strong hoses into the system should make the braking feel better, more responsive and accurate. Are they working well? Does the car brake well? Is it just hot brakes that make you think they are not releasing? If it is, could it be your wheel bearings that are faulty?

Its difficult with Freelander, but with the car lifted, do the wheels turn freely without binding from the brakes? Is there any grumbling from bearings?

GrumpyGel said:

It's only the brakes. Getting the file out to willy-nilly take bits off can't harm anything.

Making the pads loose within the caliper, vibration when in use - erm, ah, its only the brakes

I might suggest that if you think the pads are faulty, for the sake of other road users, it would be more prudent to buy another set.

If you undo the bleed nipple and the (unmolested) pads push back nicely, then presumably its not the pads.

Installing new calipers without any wear and good strong hoses into the system should make the braking feel better, more responsive and accurate. Are they working well? Does the car brake well? Is it just hot brakes that make you think they are not releasing? If it is, could it be your wheel bearings that are faulty?

Its difficult with Freelander, but with the car lifted, do the wheels turn freely without binding from the brakes? Is there any grumbling from bearings?

Click to expand...

I am not sure but there is a loud squeaky noise when i reverse and slight sound when i drive forward, but i dont know how bad wheel bearings are supposed to sound or feel like.

The car does break well however when i lifted the car in the front it does slide but i can hear it the pads touching the rotor, I assume this is normal? It does also not take much to rotate with hand when lifted so could it be rear brakes? They dont get hot tho (rear brakes)

Im only worried about the slight vibration if it causes any damage, if not im fine with it for now. Also if i change pads, do i go for rotors as well? They didnt rattle or were loose in the brackets but they did move more freely after beinf filed… which was not a good idea..

If i were going to buy new pads, are britparts any good? It is the one im currently using from previous owner and they still are practically new but if i buy from other places than lrdirect.com i believe they might not fit as they should

GrumpyGel said:

It's only the brakes. Getting the file out to willy-nilly take bits off can't harm anything.

Making the pads loose within the caliper, vibration when in use - erm, ah, its only the brakes

I might suggest that if you think the pads are faulty, for the sake of other road users, it would be more prudent to buy another set.

If you undo the bleed nipple and the (unmolested) pads push back nicely, then presumably its not the pads.

Installing new calipers without any wear and good strong hoses into the system should make the braking feel better, more responsive and accurate. Are they working well? Does the car brake well? Is it just hot brakes that make you think they are not releasing? If it is, could it be your wheel bearings that are faulty?

Its difficult with Freelander, but with the car lifted, do the wheels turn freely without binding from the brakes? Is there any grumbling from bearings?

Click to expand...

Okay i found out the sound was coming from rear left brake…….. but since the rotor in front was too hot too touch, I always thought it was the front….. going to change rear and replace pads in front and give update.

When i order new brake pads, do i get the rotor as well? Or only pads needed? I also plan to change crankhouse filter, i just know it is black, my air filter was black so it must be black too( from oil)

Hi,if the discs are grooved/scoured/warped/cracked or down to there minimum thickness then yes they (the discs) will need replacing (even if one is as I described then you must replace both, if they are still smooth on both sides & are not down to the service limits or warped/cracked then they should be ok (you could always post some pictures of them) & always put new pads in with new discs. The foam crankcase breather filter really needs changing yearly, they do do a 'modified' breather assembly without the foam filter which doesn't need 'servicing' but when I fitted one to mine it seemed to introduce more oil into the intercooler system so I reverted back to the foam type but obviously the choice is yours.