I assembled the bought-in bits, did some clumsy lathe work and a bit of chucking molten metal about. The unit is sturdy, well up for the torque, nicely balanced and machined to fine tolerances. The prototype is costing me depressingly close to a grand.
Early results are positive. There is some more work required (rear propshaft Hardy Spicer is worn) and the prototype actuator mechanism is too crude.
I've only put about 1500 miles on the unit so far, so early days. Most noticeable thing is how easy to move the car about on full lock.
Thanks for the post teg62x
Early results are positive. There is some more work required (rear propshaft Hardy Spicer is worn) and the prototype actuator mechanism is too crude.
I've only put about 1500 miles on the unit so far, so early days. Most noticeable thing is how easy to move the car about on full lock.
Thanks for the post teg62x
Thanks,
It is running better now it has "run in" a bit. It got warm first time out.
I'll post again when I'm satisfied it has been fully tested.
AWESOME.... I love stories like this
Good luck and keep us posted.
Thanks for the supportive comment.
It helps.
ER1C
Well-Known Member
What does it attach to ? Same mounting as the original unit ?When you say the rear prop joint is worn, is that from the units use or just in general ?
Hi Eric, sorry about the delay.
The Tegralok unit is attached to a fixing plate (10mm thick), in red in the video. The plate is slotted exactly like the fluid coupling bearing housings are, and bolted up into the chassis rails like the fluid coupling bearings were (in the same locations). However, I'm going to fabricate additional supports above the unit, because the original bolts are high tensile, but only 8mm in diameter. They would be fine I guess, but I'm a mining engineer, and our motto is "make it out of inch (25mm) plate, unless it has to be strong", so a little more support will be going in. The Tegralok unit weighs 10Kg more than the fluid coupling.
I salvaged a couple of Freelander propshaft flanges from scrap propshafts, and because this is the prototype (test) unit, I re-used the spider needle roller bearings, even though one of them was showing signs of wear. Note that the propshafts are original Freelander ones, but the inboard ends now have flanges, instead of the original splined ends, to mate with the Tegralok taperlok weld-on bushes on the Tegralok 35mm shafts.
The new unit doesn't load up the propshafts any more than the fluid coupling did. The centreline of the Tegralok is 6.0 mm lower than the centreline of the fluid coupling, which is not a problem and in fact makes the propshafts run a tad straighter (more in line).
Long reply, sorry.
Tony Reeves
Well-Known Member
Two problems, not major but still important.
The front and rear axle ratios in a Freelander are different, such that the rear wheels turn faster than the front wheels. The difference is accommodated by the VCU slipping slightly, in the process it transfers a fixed % of torque to the rear wheels.
If operating with the Tegralok in 4WD there will be excessive force on the drive train on firm roads.
If operating with the Tegralok in 2WD, there will be no torque transfer to the rear wheels and the designed in handling and steering will be wrong.
The front and rear axle ratios in a Freelander are different, such that the rear wheels turn faster than the front wheels. The difference is accommodated by the VCU slipping slightly, in the process it transfers a fixed % of torque to the rear wheels.
If operating with the Tegralok in 4WD there will be excessive force on the drive train on firm roads.
If operating with the Tegralok in 2WD, there will be no torque transfer to the rear wheels and the designed in handling and steering will be wrong.
Tony,
Your comments about ratios and VCU in your first paragraph are correct.
Tegralok in 4WD on firm roads would wind up the transmission, yes it would. Therefore I don't do it.
Tegralok in 2WD transfers no torque to the rear axle, true. Handling and steering are therefore not as designed, also true. I happen to prefer the feel of my car in 2WD on firm roads compared with when it had a VCU, but other people would disagree of course.
Perhaps I'm not alone in wishing that the FL had been designed with an open (but lockable) centre differential. It would have meant that the job of moving the car was distributed constantly and freely to all 4 wheels and tyres, completely regardless of tyre size, amount of inflation or the tightness of the corners. Sadly it wasn't. Some people might see the VCU as a similar or better alternative to a centre diff, others might see the VCU as a compromise resulting from the designer adopting a transverse engine for manufacturing convenience. This forum is very rich in intelligent comment, often conflicting, but isn't that why we come here?
Thanks for your interest.
Likimstip
Your comments about ratios and VCU in your first paragraph are correct.
Tegralok in 4WD on firm roads would wind up the transmission, yes it would. Therefore I don't do it.
Tegralok in 2WD transfers no torque to the rear axle, true. Handling and steering are therefore not as designed, also true. I happen to prefer the feel of my car in 2WD on firm roads compared with when it had a VCU, but other people would disagree of course.
Perhaps I'm not alone in wishing that the FL had been designed with an open (but lockable) centre differential. It would have meant that the job of moving the car was distributed constantly and freely to all 4 wheels and tyres, completely regardless of tyre size, amount of inflation or the tightness of the corners. Sadly it wasn't. Some people might see the VCU as a similar or better alternative to a centre diff, others might see the VCU as a compromise resulting from the designer adopting a transverse engine for manufacturing convenience. This forum is very rich in intelligent comment, often conflicting, but isn't that why we come here?
Thanks for your interest.
Likimstip
Flying Scotsman!
Active Member
So where can I buy a Tegralok?
You can't. It was a one-off. It also cost the earth. VCU replacement is easy and relatively low cost.
saxavordian
Well-Known Member
Are you not working this replacement on the rear diff and front diff being sound first. If theses are knackered because of the vcu and then you have an expensive time in finding out.
