Yes cam timing is easy corrected. All that's needed is a couple of dial gauges and some brackets to hold them. The K series engine is much easier to get an exact TDC on the dial gauge, compared to the overhead valve engines I used to optimise.
Any K series engine could well be improved with accurately set cam timing. I've seen them 4° or 5° cam degrees out, which is hardly going to provide optimum performance.
Offset pins are available for this purpose.
I used to set the timing accurately, then drill a locking pin location in the correct place. That way the timing was easy to set at a later strip down.
I've never bothered with verniers for cam timing. They were always well over the budget available. I figured that better pistons and bearings were a more cost effective mod than the ability to change the timing a few degrees. If a piston fails, the engine was basically scrap. If the timing is out 1 or 2 degrees. Nothing to serious is going to happen. So I would spend the budget, in a place where I got the best value.
 
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Nodge68 said:
Yes cam timing is easy corrected. All that's needed is a couple of dial gauges and some brackets to hold them. The K series engine is much easier to get an exact TDC on the dial gauge, compared to the overhead valve engines I used to optimise.
Any K series engine could well be improved with accurately set cam timing. I've seen them 4° or 5° cam degrees out, which is hardly going to provide optimum performance.
Offset pins are available for this purpose.
I used to set the timing accurately, then drill a locking pin location in the correct place. That way the timing was easy to set at a later strip down.
I've never bothered with verniers for cam timing. They were always well over the budget available. I figured that better pistons and bearings were a more cost effective mod than the ability to change the timing a few degrees. If a piston fails, the engine was basically scrap. If the timing is out 1 or 2 degrees. Nothing to serious is going to happen. So I would spend the budget, in a place where I got the best value.
Click to expand...
Agreed.
I have never come across a twin cam unit with 'per spec' timing :) - they are all usually out on one cam or indeed both - more often both. Perhaps some of the more very modern vehicles are better ? - probably not as the tolerances are quite 'generous' ...;)
We always tended to re-drill the pin as opposed to offsets - mainly because it was easier, faster and free (tight git mode :cool:) - and most times we didn't need to disassemble the unit again after timing to fir the correct offset dowel - and then re-check ... - which is a pain in the a$$.
Ref verniers - as I said in the last post, they are of no use unless you want to adjust it on the rollers, and to be honest - if you set it to the manufacturers spec then you will be as near as spit.
They looked nice on 2 ltr pintos :D - but gave me quite a chuckle as when mixed with a pair of 45's the 'modded' cam from (insert cam grinder of choice here :)) could be 3 or 4 degrees either way and it didn't make the slightest difference on that lump. Single cams are always far more tolerant imo.
A similar thing with the 711 crossflow (they were ';fun; to time .....), when mixed with a 'peaky' cam and a pair of 40's they were not overly critical about cam timing. They ran like a broken clog on the 'best' rally cams (1700 hc units) on 40's with Janspeed headers and system... idle was set at 1600 rpm :eek: .. but when they came on the cam - jeeeeezzzz !!! like a scalded cat.. -on steroids ....
Used to take them for the MOT like that - no emissions testing in them days ;);), hell, they didnt check the lights.. hell, before 1977 they didnt even check for corrosion - or indicators etc - they just kicked tyres and checked the headlights worked.
:)
 
Ay up. Now in to 2018. Yes, the thread is back!

I've been tempted by the dark side...

They say that if things seem too good to be true then they probably are which certainly seems to be the case after reading this thread. 20+ years and no one has come up with a definite solution to the age old issue of hgf on the K Series.

So would you now, knowing what you know, be tempted by a cheap F1 1.8 k?

If you could pick a minter up for a couple of hundred would you buy it as a toy? I'm not talking commuter here...more weekend greenlaner.

That's where I'm at at the moment. That quandary point of do I or don't I. I don't have the cash for a 110. I don't want the constant welding of a Discovery. A RRC is more project than toy.

Seems I'd just be pouring good money after bad with these. Though those that love em really rate them.
 
its an easy fix nowadays and the latest gaskets seem to do the job, providing the liners are ok and not moved.

would i buy one - no :)

get @Nodge68 to rebuild it for ya - maybe :)

depends if you have lots of time, or lots of money ;)
 
wolflore said:
Ay up. Now in to 2018. Yes, the thread is back!

I've been tempted by the dark side...

They say that if things seem too good to be true then they probably are which certainly seems to be the case after reading this thread. 20+ years and no one has come up with a definite solution to the age old issue of hgf on the K Series.

So would you now, knowing what you know, be tempted by a cheap F1 1.8 k?

If you could pick a minter up for a couple of hundred would you buy it as a toy? I'm not talking commuter here...more weekend greenlaner.

That's where I'm at at the moment. That quandary point of do I or don't I. I don't have the cash for a 110. I don't want the constant welding of a Discovery. A RRC is more project than toy.

Seems I'd just be pouring good money after bad with these. Though those that love em really rate them.
Click to expand...
Yes it's a good engine that can be fixed, if done properly. ;)
 
Alibro said:
Too high geared for a green laner but yes, I'd be tempted. :)











But then my stupidity is well documented. :p
Click to expand...
Yeh, probably a diesel auto is more suited. For a couple of hundred quid, I don't think you can go far wrong as a stop gap though till the right one comes along.
 
Having said that, my diesel manual never had any issues down the beach when it was 4WD and HTR gets his 1.8 manual into some very interesting places :)
 
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Alibro said:
AWESOME!!!!!
And they're really asking less than £5k for the car cause the trailer is worth over £1k on it's own, never mind the spare engine.
That's a cheap way to get into a really fun motor sport.
Click to expand...
I follow the Freelander Challenge on FB and website. Not 100% on the rules and regs but I'm pretty sure the the cars have a handicap type system. So for example the bigger the engine the bigger (or smaller is it!) the handicap - but also a turbo adds to the handicap - so, for example a TD4 is handicapped for having a turbo - so the 1.8 becomes more attractive even if it takes longer to do the courses (and I'm not sure if it would or not).

It really is a family/friends sport - family teams, all girl teams etc.
 
wolflore said:
So what is it that you do properly Nodge68?
Click to expand...

Check head for hardness and scrap one that is soft. Peen the fire ring lands to eliminate any potential porosity. Mill the head flat after peening. Make sure all liners are above the deck by 1 to 3 thou. Make sure all liners are within 1 thou of an adjacent liner.
If all liners are within 1 thou of each other and 1 to 3 thou above the deck, then fit the latest SIAC MLS gasket, stronger bolts and stronger bottom rail.
If the liners are more than 1 thou out from each other, or any of the liners are under 1 thou above the deck, then use the latest Payen (blue elastomer) gasket. Use new OE standard bolts with the steel dowls in the gasket kit. Then fit the PRT stat to reduce further problems.
This will be doing the best you can without spending a large amount of money.
 
Seems like it's not worth buying a manual if I want it for Greenlaning, which seems to take the L and K Series out of the equation. Leaving the V6 And TD4...which don't seem to be rated as engines either
 
Go auto td 4 ideally, my 1.8 k series went everywhere I could, towing a fuel bowser or mobile welder if necessary , so if a good one comes up, go for it !
 
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