Kizzeh
Well-Known Member
Yer talking ****. If it's x reg then it's Di and it has a turbo and an intercooler up the left hand side of the rad
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Yer talking ****. If it's x reg then it's Di and it has a turbo and an intercooler up the left hand side of the rad
Kizzeh
Well-Known Member
So.... All engines need to breath in and breath out. The thing to do it cheapest and easier first. Servicing is critical but it sounds like your all good in that. Make sure your fuel pump is timed correct. If Somone ####ed up putting a belt on it makes all the difference. First thing is make sure your engine is running properly before tuning, air intake manifold not blocked with ****e and egr blanked. Bigget air filters, possibly k&n then turbo, either uprate or wind out the waste gate a turn or 2. Think about the what the turbo does, sends pressurised air to the intercooler. Maybe silicone hoses or bigger intercooler to cool the air therefore making more dense before it reaches the engine. Once it reaches the engine it might need more fuel. I am not sure about injectors, I know sdi injectors are popular but I am unsure the difference between them and normal injectors. Get them reconditioned and balanced if your putting 2nd hand ones in. Think about decating the exhaust and possibly stainless exhaust pipes and pipes from the turbo.
I know Ron box is popular aswell with the pierburg maf. Again something I don't know much about
I have been drinking. This may be utter ****e
I know Ron box is popular aswell with the pierburg maf. Again something I don't know much about
I have been drinking. This may be utter ****e
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SES88
Well-Known Member
baptista
Active Member
LOL, I'll get "the hammer"
Jamesyhunt21061988
New Member
So what things have u done 2 get that power out put an thanks for every ones help
Winu
Active Member
You need :
Basic checks in workshop:
Basics shopping:
Remember - You need to keep your EGT below 650*C on full throttle.
If you change fueling or/and boost you change value called AFR (air to fuel ratio). If you create rich mixture - your EGT will be higher. This can be done by two ways :
-Too much of fuel
-Too small of air
If EGT will be above safe limit, you will know that you have too small amount of air (verifying by boost reading), or you dosage to much fuel (if boost is correct). Test should be performed on heavy load (towing, high speed cruise).
More shopping - better results
PG1 (S4EMU - that's important "Uprated") can handle a lot more, but there is no info about IRD rating.
Basic checks in workshop:
- Condition of turbocharger and wastegate
- Condition of FIP, FIP drive belt and Cambelt
- Condition of Air hoses (old and weak will split very fast)
- Injectors cleaning, EGR disable.
- Condition of fuel hoses
- Condition of intercooler.
Basics shopping:
- RonBox VP - your main unit to control fuel quantity
- MBC - Manual boost controler - your main unit to control boost. Use only good MBC. It must be precise -> GBE D-EVO,Turbosmart, Greddy ect.
- Good high flow air filter (pipercross for example)
- 30 PSI Boost gauge -> For boost control and regulation.
- 900 *C EGT Gauge -> You will be play with fuel quantity, boost and AFR. DON'T do that without EGT monitoring. You can burn your pistons.
- Some ECM interface to calibrate boost gauge, and basic setup. You need to see :
- what boost value ECM see by MAP,
- what is the value of IAT (Intake Air Temperature)
- Clear some fault codes if they will shown when all things will setup
Remember - You need to keep your EGT below 650*C on full throttle.
If you change fueling or/and boost you change value called AFR (air to fuel ratio). If you create rich mixture - your EGT will be higher. This can be done by two ways :
-Too much of fuel
-Too small of air
If EGT will be above safe limit, you will know that you have too small amount of air (verifying by boost reading), or you dosage to much fuel (if boost is correct). Test should be performed on heavy load (towing, high speed cruise).
More shopping - better results
- Solid boost pipes - for L-series, made by SES88. Those will reduce boost building time, and boost drops.
- Fitting an oil catch tank is a good idea to keep your IC and other parts of intake clean.
- Decat exhaust or fit sport cat
- Stainless steel exhaust system is also a good idea
- Oil Cooler. Tuned TC and engine will heat oil. 7 row oil cooler with thermostat should be fitted below your fans. Keep your oil below 120-125*C . Fully synthetic, high quality oil is recommended (for example i got 10W60) . Standard 10W40 not work very well on mod engine (mine drop to 0.8 bar idle on hot with new oil pump)
- IAT should be as low as possible.This can be a problem especially in summer.
An performance bespoke IC can be fitted, or additional Spaal electric fan can be used. Other way is a waterspray system from Devilsown.
PG1 (S4EMU - that's important "Uprated") can handle a lot more, but there is no info about IRD rating.
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Jamesyhunt21061988
New Member
Thanks bud
Mudron
Active Member
Had loads of experience with the DI lump. Development of the prima engine.
The fuel control is electronic, no pump settings that can be adjusted except for the hammer mod to correct IQ.
Turbo is good for 150bhp tops without too much stress (to the engine not drive train!)
SDi injector nozzles fuel more but smoke a lot more, they require more boost and a maf commentator to solve off boost smoke issues. Hammer mod helps to improve idle and smoke.
DE-cat makes a difference to mpg and a more free reving engine, no real huge power gains.
EGR valve is a must if old for obvious reasons.
EVRY mod can produce upto 30bhp more with a boost increase.
Boost can be increased to 18 psi safely.
The ECU can be chipped physically if you can find someone who still produces them.
New standard injector nozzles and getting the 2 stage pop pressures corrected makes a big difference to power and mpg, more in the way of restoring it.
A larger front mount IC will help to maintain bhp of any improvements you make to fueling and boost. In std form a large IC will give a minor power increase and slightly better mpg.
The fuel control is electronic, no pump settings that can be adjusted except for the hammer mod to correct IQ.
Turbo is good for 150bhp tops without too much stress (to the engine not drive train!)
SDi injector nozzles fuel more but smoke a lot more, they require more boost and a maf commentator to solve off boost smoke issues. Hammer mod helps to improve idle and smoke.
DE-cat makes a difference to mpg and a more free reving engine, no real huge power gains.
EGR valve is a must if old for obvious reasons.
EVRY mod can produce upto 30bhp more with a boost increase.
Boost can be increased to 18 psi safely.
The ECU can be chipped physically if you can find someone who still produces them.
New standard injector nozzles and getting the 2 stage pop pressures corrected makes a big difference to power and mpg, more in the way of restoring it.
A larger front mount IC will help to maintain bhp of any improvements you make to fueling and boost. In std form a large IC will give a minor power increase and slightly better mpg.
Mudron
Active Member
And the DI (L series) engine does have a turbo, always has done from inception and there are no variations without one. However, the L series WAS produced without an IC in some guises. The DI stands for Direct Injection, it doesn't imply the engine doesn't have a turbo because the T isn't with the DI, at least not in this case it doesn't.
They did start developing a 16v version of the engine that was rated at 150bhp as standard, I forget the code name, I think a few made it out of the factory but they are as rare as hens teeth. I think at this point the BMW unit became available so they did not put it into full production.
They did start developing a 16v version of the engine that was rated at 150bhp as standard, I forget the code name, I think a few made it out of the factory but they are as rare as hens teeth. I think at this point the BMW unit became available so they did not put it into full production.
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Winu
Active Member
For PG1 - i'm sure. KV6 uses an Jacto auto gearbox.
In Case of IRD - probably it's work just below limit (or maybe have quite higher), but auto gearbox delivers torque more smooth than manual. So this is not a serious problem. There is no documentation about IRD, but plenty info about PG1 from Rover and MG guys.
In Case of IRD - probably it's work just below limit (or maybe have quite higher), but auto gearbox delivers torque more smooth than manual. So this is not a serious problem. There is no documentation about IRD, but plenty info about PG1 from Rover and MG guys.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
My MG ZS180 put out 210bhp at 6500 rpm and 195 ftlb of torque at 4600rpm. The ZS180 uses a U spec PG1 box. Generally the box is pretty tough and reasonably cheap too uprate
Winu
Active Member
I got nice write up on PG1 boxes :
http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group1/info/Gearbox_numbers/index.htm
This source says that U spec is
this is about 240 Nm (239.9 Nm) i found those info on other sources (forums too) and covers with LR informations. Freelander L-series also got "U" spec PG1, S4EMU. As you say that MG generates 265 Nm PG1 gearbox in "U" spec can handle a lot more than expected.
But i still think that safe limit is about 240 Nm, because of other drive train components
your MG is tuned or stock?
http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group1/info/Gearbox_numbers/index.htm
This source says that U spec is
this is about 240 Nm (239.9 Nm) i found those info on other sources (forums too) and covers with LR informations. Freelander L-series also got "U" spec PG1, S4EMU. As you say that MG generates 265 Nm PG1 gearbox in "U" spec can handle a lot more than expected.
But i still think that safe limit is about 240 Nm, because of other drive train components
your MG is tuned or stock?
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Nodge68
Well-Known Member
To limit the number of warranty claims, Rover or PTP to be correct limited torque capacity too 177ftlb. In reality the U box will take more, a lot more. I know of turbo T series engines pushing well over 200 ftlb through the PG1 box.
My ZS180 had some performance mods.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
So I was wrong with torque then
Not wrong as the PG1 can fail
It's just not much of a issue most of the time. There are far more likely faults to appear with very high power levels. The splined link through the gearbox is one item that fails regularly, even on the 1.8!!
