i’ve got a 59 reg but 2010 model RRS, diesel 3.0 TDV6, keyless. Recently had a professional add a key to it, who then pointed out (and showed) that many of the ECU’s needed updating. My question; does anyone know about these 2 (they advertise both as being compatible with my car) or eventually a different way / option to update the ECU’s ??

Did this professional you speak of tell you what sort of upgrades your ECUs needed?
More knowledgeable members may come along and say otherwise, but I don't think this is fact.
I do know the main dealers may sometimes do a reflash of say maybe an engine or transmission controller to remedy some running issues, but aside that, I'm not sure they roll out regular updates that need to be uploaded to the various electronic controllers.

He showed me the screen, no faults, but many ‘update required’ in red. He mentioned that many would take just a few minutes, but some others several hours. Besides the fact that I don’t like to leave the car for 48 hours in a garage 30 minutes drive away, if for roughly the same money I can do it myself AND buy the tool to do so just makes more sense to me ...

Definitely find out from the mechanic what the "updates" to the ECU will entail and to what version or firmware number.
I have the Foxwell NT510 and I am most certain the NT520 doesn't have an option to update ECU's. I'm guessing you'll need some sort of Wi-Fi or Bluetooth connection for the update and the NT510/520 is not that advanced of a diagnostic tester to do that.
Hopefully someone can chime in on BlueDriver since I never used it.

According to the documentation the NT510 does do this (so I assume the 520 does too), when you say yours doesn’t, are you saying it hasn’t got a wifi module and you have to connect it to a pc, or have you never done this ?? Don’t get me wrong, not saying that you’re wrong, trying to understand, that’s all. Of course there’ll be other problems, such as where to get the files to flash, etc. but that’s the next step.

Hi

I’ve got a D3 and mine is very similar to urs , if i may say please be VERY careful messing around with reflashing ecus or u can end up with a very expensive lump of metal on ur drive way , because it’s when it goes wrong when I really find out if a company is any good

Don’t know how useful this is , I’ve got a iid made my gap, the extra bonus is the aftersales service is second to none

They are based in Canada but will answer within 24 hours

They plug into ur obd2 socket and Bluetooth via ur iPad or iPhone

When I scanned my ecus it came up with software updates reqs , contacted gap and many of them were free , u send ur ecu info via email to them, they look through it from there tech team, u have to use a desktop as u need to plug the small dongle into the pc, log into ur account and the software updates are loaded onto the dongle

U then plug the dongle into the landy, open the app on ur iPad or iPhone and it will then update the ecus accordingly


Here’s some Info ref ur system

https://blackbox-solutions.com/help/SM130.html

Alas the gap iid are currently £405 but will do virtually everything a JLR can do,

Here there web site

https://www.gap-diagnostic.com/products/iidtool/


Also if u check out the RRS web site everyone swears by the gap iid, exceptional bit of kit

RRS web site link

http://www.rrsport.co.uk/forum/

Cheapest place to buy the iid

https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/sale-gap-iid-bluetooth-tool-40500-plenty-stock-172779.html

Hope that’s a bit of help to u

Also a pic of the ecus u have in ur RRS

Plus if u wish to talk to gap the expert there is Pat , his email is gapteam@gap-diagnostic.com

Ref ur key conversion as u might need a special software program

Plse let us know how u get on and hope this has helped abit

Ps, also u have to ensure ur battery is up to spec before reflashing software as if the battery gets to low half way ur in big trouble

Can buy a ctek battery charger which U can keep plugged in as it provides a 12 v supply , think it’s version 7

If u have a 12s towing socket u can plug ur CTEK in there and it will maintain ur battery

Any more help plse feel free to ask

Gary

Well... let me backtrack and say I have only used my NT510 on mine and others Disco 2's, my wife's BMW X5 35d and a friends P38. I've never tried it on a RRS. I've tried syncing the fobs on my Disco 2 and my friends P38 and I could never get it to work.
After reading #5, I truly believe they are talking about resetting ECM & ECU adaptions (which I have done on Land Rovers pics below) and not actually update firmware.
But who knows. Try it and report back.

CTEK battery charger

https://www.ctek.com/products/vehicle/mxs-7-0

This is what I done with mine , installed a towing socket on the front of the house, so can plug my D3 in as I pull onto the drive

Got my CTEK in the hallway

JUKE179r said:

Well... let me backtrack and say I have only used my NT510 on mine and others Disco 2's, my wife's BMW X5 35d and a friends P38. I've never tried it on a RRS. I've tried syncing the fobs on my Disco 2 and my friends P38 and I could never get it to work.
After reading #5, I truly believe they are talking about resetting ECM & ECU adaptions (which I have done on Land Rovers pics below) and not actually update firmware.
But who knows. Try it and report back.

Click to expand...

Hi

Think that’s what I’m also very concerned about , ref the software updates as the OP having the key installed if other systems need a special update ?????

Know the gap iid tech team write new codes etc

Indeed hope the OP gets it sorted out and goes smoothly

Know when I done 1x ecm reflashing mine the lights went on and off, doors locked and unlocked and lasted around 20 x mins and that was just one , gulp

Plus seeing there’s around 25 x of them , just have to have one wrong and most of the system won’t work any more

hope that doesn't come across as trying to say how to suck eggs, lol

Thanks Gary, got way more then I bargained for !! Your answer is 100% spot on what I was looking for ... apart for the price tag . My idea was to more or less pay up to the same amount for a tool and do it myself, but I know for sure it wouldn’t cost me this much to have it done in a garage. Also, having worked a lot in IT, I would assume that any ‘flashing’ would be reversible. Still, taking everything into account, over time it could very well prove to be a good investment. Regarding the battery, the car’s parked too far away for a trickle charge, but I do know it’s a massive one, bigger then the one in my van

About the time it takes, the tech did say that some of them could be ‘quick’, but that some of them could take several hours. Another reason to try it myself, but then again, if it does go wrong the garage would be more likely to be able to solve any problem ... catch 22 (ish) ...

Dutch Bob said:

About the time it takes, the tech did say that some of them could be ‘quick’, but that some of them could take several hours. Another reason to try it myself, but then again, if it does go wrong the garage would be more likely to be able to solve any problem ... catch 22 (ish) ...

Click to expand...

Don't know about that. When I had an Omega I knew a forum member who had shelled out for the full Vauxhall software because a garage had bricked his car updating the gearbox software. It cost a fortune with the annual updates but he was able to cover the cost from fixing other members cars that had also been bricked or weren't right after a garage had had a go. None of mine had ever been updated, presumably because the main dealer had played safe and not touched it. The guy in question worked in IT for HP so was very good at it. My gear changes were way smoother afterwards, economy improved a bit and the climate control was quieter and less variable.