Have you been beating sh** out of your steering box? It doesn't come off like that. You need to remove it from that mount that it's attached to, then the box and the steering column will come out as one. At least, I think that's what you're trying to do!
 
Heard there is a landy show over here in Sheffield this month if your interested (just up road from me as well). Its the first one i have heard of around here, just waiting for more details. Will keep you posted if your interested ?

Where aand when is this Landy show you mention? I'm near Sheffield and would be interested in paying it a visit :)
 
Have you been beating sh** out of your steering box? It doesn't come off like that. You need to remove it from that mount that it's attached to, then the box and the steering column will come out as one. At least, I think that's what you're trying to do!

Yup beat the crap out if it a few times and then looked at the bolt hole :eek: The bracket is free from the chassie and the footwell, i just do not have a spanner/socket big enought to losen the nut on the right hand side.
 
Got quite alot done today, Footwells cut and ready for welding on Thurday. I am still in the process of cleaning up the legs. Is it a good idea to red oxcide primer, then shutz over the top ?

Photos in no specific order (could not be arsed to order them)

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B.E.A utiful :D
And yeah, Red oxide the whole area after yer done, and then Shultz the ferk out of it all - just make sure the schultz is nice and warm before you put it on (plonk the cans on the radiator indoors, or if your as me, shove them in the wifes saucepan and gently warm the tins in some water....not forgetting to poke a hole in the lid :D

If you can, Get some Cavity wax inside the A pillars and behind the top of the bulkhead, too ;)
 
looking good mate, love the garage, will post pics of what i done to mine soon, to be honest i carnt be arsed with things at the moment so its a little bit of this a little bit of that, (shed, fence, garden, truck, parrots and drinking lots of tea, may be coming down your neck of the woods soon to collect my radiator front pannel from sheff somewhere (says best near chesterfield trainstation during his work hours, or somewhere else that cant remember) will give you a shout and maybe call in for a cuppa if your not at work.
 
Cheers guys, Been and bought a shuntz gun today and underbody. I'm a proper yorkshire man with deep pockets and short arms, I have bought a tin of underbody (that screws to the gun) and 5ltr of bitch. Can anyone see a problem with thinning down the bitch and spraying that on after the red ?
 
Cheers guys, Been and bought a shuntz gun today and underbody. I'm a proper yorkshire man with deep pockets and short arms, I have bought a tin of underbody (that screws to the gun) and 5ltr of bitch. Can anyone see a problem with thinning down the bitch and spraying that on after the red ?
Should be okay and will spray better if thinned but I cannot remember if yer thin it with white spirit or thinners.
 
Footwells all done, now the wait for cash flow to pick back up. Then i can buy nuts and bolts to replace the pick a mix, the last person used.

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nicely done dude ;)

Cheers mate, my first time welding. Was not great but its solid. I have discovered some really bad spots that need welding on the chassis (pics to follow). I am thinking of removeing the body to get to the chassis. Is this going to be a easy job? and what type of problems am i going to encounter across the way. Can i get to most of the chassis with out removing too much of the inside (bench's, seats)? My main area to be in is the rear cross member, were the bad points are :(

I just dont want to end up breaking things getting it off (costing me more money i dont have) im trying to hide away from spending as much as possible, even though i know its hard not to when you own a series.
 
Post those pics of yer problem areas, and then we can advise better ;)

It'll be a bit of work to get to the rear x-member properly. I've never done one on a 109, but the other lads on here will have some pointers ;)
 
Post those pics of yer problem areas, and then we can advise better ;)

It'll be a bit of work to get to the rear x-member properly. I've never done one on a 109, but the other lads on here will have some pointers ;)

As you can see, it looks like they have used this as a jack point a few too many times and it has now dinted.

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Same spot on the drivers side.

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The main problem is the rear cross member which i was going to plate up.


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Thats till i looked underneath :doh:




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Just as i though i was making progress, i saw these. :Cry:

So do i plate it up (costs less and poss less astle) or do i do it right and buy a new cross member. And which one do i go for :confused:

Rear x member with extentions or Rear x member with ext - military
 
****.Me :eek:

That's some bad fapping rot - and that D/S plate haning in mid-air is scary, too - you'll need to get some decent plate up in that area - is that rot above the spring hanger aswell dude ?

Just replace the ****er. I seriously doubt your going to find ANY good steel to weld to under there to get a good patch - and if you do, it'll probably be so bloody thin, it'll punch through. it's tempting to try and save some moolah - we've all been there - but if it's that far gone you'll be wasting yer time with patches.;)

You'll just need the "normal" x-member (not the military one) Question is, though - you'll need to chop the old one off at the point it meets the chassis legs, and the new one slots over where you've cut - What condition is the steel in that area - worth checking with a wire brush and a big ass screwdriver ;)
 
****.Me :eek:

That's some bad fapping rot - and that D/S plate haning in mid-air is scary, too - you'll need to get some decent plate up in that area - is that rot above the spring hanger aswell dude ?

Just replace the ****er. I seriously doubt your going to find ANY good steel to weld to under there to get a good patch - and if you do, it'll probably be so bloody thin, it'll punch through. it's tempting to try and save some moolah - we've all been there - but if it's that far gone you'll be wasting yer time with patches.;)

You'll just need the "normal" x-member (not the military one) Question is, though - you'll need to chop the old one off at the point it meets the chassis legs, and the new one slots over where you've cut - What condition is the steel in that area - worth checking with a wire brush and a big ass screwdriver ;)


:Cry::faint2: Looks like the body will have to come off then, Which spring hanger are you thinking of ? The drivers one ?
 
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