Hi m8 . I only just joined this forum on Sunday. And I only wanted to share my own findings of water in footwells. But mine is a disco 2. I,m not sure if there is any resemblance but my leak was through the bulkhead where wiring harness passes through. On both sides the hole which has a grommet and shroud on , the bottom of each hole was totally rotten . For this I cut and bent 2 x plates of sheet metal silicone them in place a few self tappers after cleaning with wire brush in drill.
Done this on Sunday and after 2 x days of rain footwells are bone dry.take a look you never know.
 
I really recommend removing the roof and converting to a soft top/tilt. Seriously, I get absolutely no leaks on mine. The only changes I made from std are 1. fitting a strip of 10mm thick neoprene closed cell foam between the top of windscreen to the tilt frame, 2. using original Land Rover door seals, and 3. after some good research I did not fit std sill to door seals - instead I fitted later model lower door seals. This results in superb water tightness, though I'm the time spent adjusting the sills and covers also helps. The only thing I do to the tilt is once per year give it a steam clean both sides, dry and treat with a few coats of Fabsil.

Mines is @ bit mouldy looking inside, do you use proper ste@m cle@ner or pressuse w@sher
its on my list of jobs to do when we get better we@ther. :)
 
Hi m8 . I only just joined this forum on Sunday. And I only wanted to share my own findings of water in footwells. But mine is a disco 2. I,m not sure if there is any resemblance but my leak was through the bulkhead where wiring harness passes through. On both sides the hole which has a grommet and shroud on , the bottom of each hole was totally rotten . For this I cut and bent 2 x plates of sheet metal silicone them in place a few self tappers after cleaning with wire brush in drill.
Done this on Sunday and after 2 x days of rain footwells are bone dry.take a look you never know.

No resembl@nce 90/110 @n series @re @lw@ys wet. I h@ve drilled holes in mine to let the w@ter
oot.
Welcome to lz buddy. :)
 
The thing about the Defender is, it will make you think you have cured the leak, and then one day it will wet your right knee without warning.
lt might be a week (after you thought you'd cured the leak) or it might be a month. But rest assured your Defender will have the last laugh.
 
Mines is @ bit mouldy looking inside, do you use proper ste@m cle@ner or pressuse w@sher
its on my list of jobs to do when we get better we@ther. :)

I use either a small domestic Karcher steam cleaner that has an upholstery end or the Vax carpet cleaner, again with an upholstery end. Both are equally good for soft tops and tilts, the Karcher unit is great as uses no cleaners [just steam] but leaves the tilt wet so needs hand drying afterwards. The Vax is an excellent device as it's a cleaner and water/moisture sucker in one and the tilt is 100% dry in under an hour. I only clean on hot sunny days, this to ensure properly dry before applying two coats of Fabsil.

Note, I would never use a jet washer as 1. the jet pressure will 100% ruin the tilt material due to applied water pressure, and 2. you'll have water everywhere inside the Landy o_O
 
I use either a small domestic Karcher steam cleaner that has an upholstery end or the Vax carpet cleaner, again with an upholstery end. Both are equally good for soft tops and tilts, the Karcher unit is great as uses no cleaners [just steam] but leaves the tilt wet so needs hand drying afterwards. The Vax is an excellent device as it's a cleaner and water/moisture sucker in one and the tilt is 100% dry in under an hour. I only clean on hot sunny days, this to ensure properly dry before applying two coats of Fabsil.

Note, I would never use a jet washer as 1. the jet pressure will 100% ruin the tilt material due to applied water pressure, and 2. you'll have water everywhere inside the Landy o_O

lol @t no 2 h@h@ c@n see someone doing th@t. :D

Full ste@m @he@d it is then t@ much. :);)
 

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