Northern Irelander
Well-Known Member
I used jubilee clips as it was the simplest, U-clamps dont come in a 22-25mm size. No reason why a sleeve/collar couldn't be fabricated and held in place with some grub screws.
You could always buy a new bar, not sure of the price, I think the subframe will have to be dropped for replacing the full bar, the shape of the bar could be awkward.
Northern Irelander
Well-Known Member
200-450 Extortion!!
Think I'll give mine another coat of Hammerite
Northern Irelander
Well-Known Member
Nice if you can get it CharlesY, looking to get hold of a decent bench mounted (10 ton) at the right price though, they are not exactly a high usage item
the rivets are about the only stainless steel component on the car, a hundred years from now there will be piles of iron oxide dotted all over the country and half a dozen SS rivets buried within each.
Boxer
Active Member
Are you sure the repair hasn't been done before with SS rivets?
I'm sure my local garage only charged me about £47 +Vat for the complete arm and joint.
Yea found the bill 'off side lower arm captive bolt spinning in chassis, cut off lower arm cut hole in chassis refixed bolt, plated chassis fitted new arm,bushes and balljoint £127.50.' Oil filter fuel filter and new oil £85.11 MOT £35.00
Awesome!
I'm sure my local garage only charged me about £47 +Vat for the complete arm and joint.
Yea found the bill 'off side lower arm captive bolt spinning in chassis, cut off lower arm cut hole in chassis refixed bolt, plated chassis fitted new arm,bushes and balljoint £127.50.' Oil filter fuel filter and new oil £85.11 MOT £35.00
Awesome!
Northern Irelander
Well-Known Member
nope been like that from new
doobreydog
Active Member
They are a right batard to get out....Whatever steel it is
Most motors you can do this on car with a basic drill but with FL you definitely need to remove arm...1st time took 3 of us (2 skilled mechanics) most of night to do one side
Easy way we found..
Remove arm from motor
Grind heads down to nothing to and bottom (you will see ring appear around rivet when down enough)
Use drill in press on slow setting with plenty of coolant to drill top and bottom of rivet by thickness of steel in arm (about 1mm)
Use very fine cutting disc and cut between top and bottom portion of arm for lenght of ball joint (3-4 inches)
Big hammer and chisel to knock old joint out from arm.
Big hammer to knock new joint back into place
Bolt through with 3 bolts provided....
20 mins per side
Did consider re-welding but with strength of these components didnt feel necessary.
All working fine after 10k and plenty of off road abuse.
Most motors you can do this on car with a basic drill but with FL you definitely need to remove arm...1st time took 3 of us (2 skilled mechanics) most of night to do one side
Easy way we found..
Remove arm from motor
Grind heads down to nothing to and bottom (you will see ring appear around rivet when down enough)
Use drill in press on slow setting with plenty of coolant to drill top and bottom of rivet by thickness of steel in arm (about 1mm)
Use very fine cutting disc and cut between top and bottom portion of arm for lenght of ball joint (3-4 inches)
Big hammer and chisel to knock old joint out from arm.
Big hammer to knock new joint back into place
Bolt through with 3 bolts provided....
20 mins per side
Did consider re-welding but with strength of these components didnt feel necessary.
All working fine after 10k and plenty of off road abuse.
freebiker
Well-Known Member
I've ordered some new poly bushes for the anti roll bar and also some AR bar linkages hoping this will correct the problem without bodging. I've read the linkages are easy enough to fit but the bushes can be a pain due to space or something.
Can anyone tell me whats involved in replacing the AR bar bushes?
Can anyone tell me whats involved in replacing the AR bar bushes?
Northern Irelander
Well-Known Member
Doob - 20min a side? Is that with a man on each rivet
Northern Irelander
Well-Known Member
Crewey - are the polys split? Haven't fitted them
Northern Irelander
Well-Known Member
It'll be a doddle then, get the penetrating fluid on the bolts overnight.
4 new M8 bolts for the mounts wouldn't go a miss, work from underneath, behind the subframe, unless you fancy hanging upside down in the engine bay.
4 new M8 bolts for the mounts wouldn't go a miss, work from underneath, behind the subframe, unless you fancy hanging upside down in the engine bay.
doobreydog
Active Member
Doob - 20min a side? Is that with a man on each rivet
Not got that many mates
Depends on size of hammer....
Ok thanks all, panic over.......don't panic Mr. Mannering
I picked up a Presto HSS bit at local store' they had cobalt but not the size I needed
I grinded the remaining heads down.
Got some plastercine, dammed around the rivet and poured in the best heat conducting oil i know........extra virgin olive oil
drilling wasn't too bad, a lot of swarf, the rivets were at least 15mm depth in the core
We all know economists build cars these days, even an extra component costing a few pence more is a no no.
Those SS parts would have been better placed in the window cables LOL
The aftermarket ball joint comes complete with 3 X M1O bolts, washers and nylon nuts, at £17 that's a good price.
iirc the complete arm and ball joint is £250ish
I just had an advisory on my MOT for this, passed but mentioned.
Island 4x4 lists the balljoint and bolts at £12
.....they also list the whole arm at just £40
so no point messing about with the "rivets"
doobreydog
Active Member
Dont fink so ..... dont think it would work
