At 94% modulation there is almost no pressure on piston?No read it again and turn your theory over.
At 94% modulation there is almost no pressure on piston?No read it again and turn your theory over.
At 94% modulation there is almost no pressure on piston?
There are at least two holes in automatic version flywheel where locking tool fools you that it's in correct position.
Hence why you may have static timing set wrong.
Hi Guys, I'm back.
Going to redo the static timing & need few clarifications.
When the no 1 cam lobe in vertical position (90 deg before TDC) means, perpendicular to ground or cylinder head surface ?
Hi Guys, I'm back.
Going to redo the static timing & need few clarifications.
When the no 1 cam lobe in vertical position (90 deg before TDC) means, perpendicular to ground or cylinder head surface ?
(this is due to engine is fitted with a slant & rocker cover top surface is parallel to ground/floor.)
I had to replace the leaking cam cover gasket today(fitted new in Dec'16, you know ---part) and noted that cam locking tool has about 5mm gap at the intake side.
Since I fitted new chains in Dec last year and now done about 6000KMs, should I correct it to zero space? The RAVE says for cars done more than 20000 miles (32,000 KMs) need to have that gap maintained.
Here is a picture of flywheel & can someone point me the exact TDC locking pin hole?View attachment 125221
Revisited static timing. Everything is set as told, I can't get 0.95mm lift on cam. I'm unable to push the FIP towards the engine any more & the dial gauge shows 0.71mm at that point. But if I push it back away from the engine, I can get 0.95mm lift (after passing 0 position in dial gauge) but the pump is more towards the other end where,its said to be highly retarded timing. In both locations my modulation is around 93 and the latter position giving shaky idle with lots of white smoke.
Anyway, set it to max position towards the engine & using the car now. Other than the hot start issue (even with hot start kit fitted) car seems fine.
I really need help to get over with the 'hot start' issue.
The new chain(& also the old one) came with gold coloured links for crank & inj pump sprockets. I'm certain that it was set correctly & never turned the engine counter clock wise, but only a few mm to check whether it turns after inserting the locking pin in flywheel.. But when the chains were fitted, the pump was at the position , fully pushed towards the engine. On that occasion, I queried whether to get the pump centered on it's fitting bolts.When you did the chains the bottom one was fitted incorrectly with thirteen links between the timing marks instead of twelve.............................
The new chain(& also the old one) came with gold coloured links for crank & inj pump sprockets. I'm certain that it was set correctly & never turned the engine counter clock wise, but only a few mm to check whether it turns after inserting the locking pin in flywheel.. But when the chains were fitted, the pump was at the position , fully pushed towards the engine. On that occasion, I queried whether to get the pump centered on it's fitting bolts.
See post #33 on
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/timing-chains-diesel-p38.308324/page-2.
Could this be a reason for the issue?
Forgetting the reason for it, any chance I can correct it without removing the whole lot? Can I get the pump out & reinsert after rotating the shaft sufficiently?
The photo shows the bottom chain fitted. The inj pump chain link is set on the mark. Crank link though not visible, was set on the coloured link too.
Just ignore the home made tensioner tool.
View attachment 125557
I doubt the bottom chain setting to be wrong. But when I tried to get the keyway aligned, I had to rotate the pump shaft. May be at that point, without rotating the pump shaft, I should have rotated the whole pump by loosening the mounting nuts. In that context can I do the following;
1. get the timing on TDC & insert the locking tool in flywheel to verify TDC.
2. Remove locking tool and rotate engine clockwise about 1 cm at the crank pulley .
3. remove injection pump using the locking tool on the sprocket.
4. turn pump shaft clockwise about 2 - 3 mm or as required for next step..
5. refit the pump , aligning shaft key.
6. re set static timing the normal way.
your ideas please. I really really can't get back on removing head, sump & timing cover etc etc.
Im i right in thinking ,if the bottom end timing is wrong on the pump ,then cam timing is wrong with the bottom timing,because the cam drives off the pump sprocket...that would cause rough running ..I think to much i think