Wazzajnr said:
Sounds like the whole thing is 60 degrees out. That would screw things as no.4 would be detecting point of injection incorrectly.
That said, I'd be surprised if it would run like that.
I'm no expert on the diesel but it sounds like a start from scratch job to me!
Click to expand...

Don't think so. I am now leaning towards him losing the thrust spacer from the piston whilst doing the pressure head seal. For interest and info. If you look at the injection pump pressure head with the pump sat upright. There are two delivery valves at the top, then one each side then two at the bottom. Number one is the right hand of the two top delivery valves. Going anti clockwise from that it is 5 - 3 - 6 - 2 - 4.
 
Last edited:
I am referring yr comment on page 9- post #164 with a picture of our inj pump. Accordingly , one with yellow dot said to be the no 1 line where as in mine it's the no. 5 line..
Yr comments on post # 164 & # 221 are contradictory , though mine tallies with #221 above.
I will post the picture from BMW .
 
Last edited:
Here is the link to BMW SM;

http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/3_s...ling_replacing_injection_pump_(m51)/page_644/


BMW pump head.png
 
No problem.
I was worried whether I have shifted injection by 60 degrees.
During the weekend tried again to reset static timing.
When the pump at centre, can get 0.95 mm cam lift on the dial gauge. But then the engine is lumpy and lots of white smoke and that smoke
is so strong and it makes you weep. push back fully towards the engine, slight smoke but the engine steady.
Could it be valve timing out as the white smoke suggest?
 
kapilamuni said:
No problem.
I was worried whether I have shifted injection by 60 degrees.
During the weekend tried again to reset static timing.
When the pump at centre, can get 0.95 mm cam lift on the dial gauge. But then the engine is lumpy and lots of white smoke and that smoke
is so strong and it makes you weep. push back fully towards the engine, slight smoke but the engine steady.
Could it be valve timing out as the white smoke suggest?
Click to expand...

You need to start listening. You cannot alter valve timing by moving pump. If you have .95 mm lift with pump on centre of it's available slot movement, that lift is being provided by the down slope of the last cam lift that fired number four. The pump is in the wrong initial position. Locked at TDC number one firing, with chain links positioned correctly on timing marks the woodruff slot in the sprocket should be almost vertical. The injection pump should then be turned clockwise viewed from front until when fitted in position the woodruff key is also vertical to match the key way in the sprocket. This puts the pump in the null position between number four and number one injection positions. Number four just injected and number one about to inject. IE any further movement of the pump in a clockwise direction and the rotating cam will start to rise up the static cam. When the cam has risen .95 mm with engine locked at TDC as pump is turned towards engine measured with tooling that is correct static timing. The .95 mm you are getting by moving the pump away from the engine is being generated as the cam moves back up the down slope of the number four injection position. Static will then be grossly retarded and cause the engine to run as you describe. If as you say that is being achieved at 50% slot movement then the only conclusion i can come to is the timing chain is not fitted correctly and the timing marks are a link to far apart. You will not correct this until you start listening. There is no easy way around what you have.
 
Some of us breed hamster's, guinea pigs and some rabbits.
Wammers breeds Bosch fuel pumps.
Crack that casing open buddy, it's time for verification!:p;)
 
May be you are correct. But at this moment, I can't touch it. Need to attend other family matters.
Before that I need to buy,
crank sprocket bolt, timing cover packing, cam sprocket bolt & cam cover gasket.
That's if I'm not touching the head.:mad::mad::mad::mad:

In the mean time tried to increase RPM , a little more. It was at 750 (setting @ 128)
Now at 845 (setting @ 133) but when increased to 134 RPM dropped back to 750.
Any explanation, welcome.
 
kapilamuni said:
Nope. I never had cold start issues. Not even now with alleged inj pump chain link in wrong position.
Click to expand...
It is you Kapil! Sri Lanka.
Amazing coincidence two Kapil's with a P38 and hot/cold start problems, timing chains and fuel pumps?
And I'm sure it is the same N20 we've got on our LZ!
 
Ooooooooo..........is someone doppelelganging?

I feckin love when someone is found out, pants at their ankles, bit o toilet paper stuck to their boots.

Go Marky, ye old sleuth you.;)
 
Last edited:
Finally got the timing cover removed and checked the timing. Here is a photo;, bit slanted but shows the timing on spec despite 'coloured links' far way from the timing marks. Now the timing verified, I don't know what else to do to solve my 'hot start' issue.:mad::mad::mad:
IMG_20180127_154959.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

H
Rough idle - discovery 1
Replies
3
Views
315
hi_arshard
H
F
P38 DSE loss of power when driving
2
Replies
33
Views
2K
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
ar1g3
P38A P38 rattle at idle
2
Replies
26
Views
3K
roythebus
R
Lej
Fast idle speed (tick-over) + other queries!
Replies
3
Views
281
lynall
L
K
Freelander 1 Freelander 1 problem. Jerks on idle. AND cuts power when high temp.
2
Replies
22
Views
1K
Alteredtech
Alteredtech