Pikey
Dummy Ejection Facilitator..
It's called the footwell and you can get replacement ones, same with the outrigger buy a new one cut away the old one and weld the new one on it's place. If you can't weld then try to find a mate who can or even a forum member who lives in your area. As it's a simple job but a garage is going to sting you on the price.
What more do you need?
Redhand is absolutely spot on, as usual, so anything else is a pretty much superfluous. Mind, if you need more help, perhaps you meed to add more detail as to the exact help you require ...
You say you're a panel beater and can weld ... you seem to be at least as qualified to do this job as many on here ...
discomania
Well-Known Member
Buy the footwell panel, buy the outrigger then cut out the footwell panel and cut off the outrigger.
Cut out the old footwell and outrigger. Clean it all up, bolt the new outrigger to the bulkhead and line it all up, tack weld it in place.
There is a loom in the chassis here so be carefull not to melt it when cutting or welding.
You can A run water through it with a hose and weld in short bursts keeping it cool as possible.
Or disconect the loom at the back and pull it out the front with another piece of wire attached to it so you can pull it through again.
Then paint it all up with weld primer and then some waxoyle.
Weld in the footwell, you can tack weld it and seam seal it in or weld right round it (again watch for wires in the engine bay getting melted). Paint it up.
Job done.
Cut out the old footwell and outrigger. Clean it all up, bolt the new outrigger to the bulkhead and line it all up, tack weld it in place.
There is a loom in the chassis here so be carefull not to melt it when cutting or welding.
You can A run water through it with a hose and weld in short bursts keeping it cool as possible.
Or disconect the loom at the back and pull it out the front with another piece of wire attached to it so you can pull it through again.
Then paint it all up with weld primer and then some waxoyle.
Weld in the footwell, you can tack weld it and seam seal it in or weld right round it (again watch for wires in the engine bay getting melted). Paint it up.
Job done.
cheers all i got that bit but in the drivers side floor there is a bracket under the car so i would only be able to cut up to that witch isnt much didnt think it would give me much room also there is 2 skins to the floor when putting them back are you spliting the panels or welding them in as one also wheres best place to get floors from tryed paddocksbthey dont sell them cheers
Pikey
Dummy Ejection Facilitator..
I think he means there's a floor plate and the footwell.
The floor plate unscrews and only the footwell is welded in place.
My series was triple floored ...
Some 'owner' before me had repaired it numerous times, often one straight on top of the other. Front nearside wing was two wings glued together, rear bumper was two welded together! dunno how he spread the top one ...
Some 'owner' before me had repaired it numerous times, often one straight on top of the other. Front nearside wing was two wings glued together, rear bumper was two welded together! dunno how he spread the top one ...
really ?
well the bloke who owned Paul Ds landy must have been at yours at some point, other than an overlap where the floor plates and seatbox mount it's all single skin - double skining is usually a description of bonded or fixed layers rather than sheet on sheet which is how the depender floor is constructed
Tig9619
Active Member
i'm not on about the floor, i'm talking about the footwell. i know some of it is double skinned because i have drilled through it, cut it and welded it. think its the section below the pedal box. had not been modified or repaired it was as it came out of the factory when i had it. just a bit rusty. thinks its anearly 90 bulkhead.
some have got a reinforcment plate riveted around the pedal openings
show me who is selling a double skined footwell repair panel ?
