Hey thanks Will. I've got all the bits so fingers crossed for this weekend. I'll try lowering the box as you say.
 
Little will iv pmd you with a phone number just read my emails you can shift box back on a jack with a sheet of wood and a couple of ratchet straps feel free to call if i miss the call drop a text and il ring back
 
Ok so I've stripped the p38 rave said there should be 4 bolts securing the flex plate to the touqe convertor however it's a triangle and I can only see 3 bolts. Is raver lieing or am I missing something?
 
Littelwill said:
Ok so I've stripped the p38 rave said there should be 4 bolts securing the flex plate to the touqe convertor however it's a triangle and I can only see 3 bolts. Is raver lieing or am I missing something?
Click to expand...
There are many mistakes in RAVE, if it's triangular and comes off with 3 bolts, that would sound about right. Never done one though.
 
Thank you. Is there a way of locking the fly wheel. When trying to undo theses bolts the whole lot moves
 
Littelwill said:
Thank you. Is there a way of locking the fly wheel. When trying to undo theses bolts the whole lot moves
Click to expand...

Bottom of the dipstick, across to the right and then under an overhand is a plastic plug. Pull it out. A timing pin or 9mm drill bit (reversed!) should fit in at TDC. Turn engine clockwise only.

Or breaker bar on crankshaft nut and rest it against a chassis member, perhaps?
 
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Cheer Grrr. It's all stripped down but could get the flex bolts out as I'm struggling with access. When I do get on one the whole bloody lot span. Will the flywheel thing take strain of me cracking the bolts off?
 
Littelwill said:
Cheer Grrr. It's all stripped down but could get the flex bolts out as I'm struggling with access. When I do get on one the whole bloody lot span. Will the flywheel thing take strain of me cracking the bolts off?
Click to expand...

I don't know to be honest. Need someone with more experience. The flywheel is pretty solid but I'm not sure the casing is.

Breaker bar on the cranknut can take quite a lot, I'd guess. Takes a lot to do it up! Again though, you're talking to a bodger. Someone who actually knows tolerances like Wammers or Saint or Datatek would be a lot more use.
 
There is a triangle type 3 bolt. I've only done the 4 bolt types but the trick is to push up towards the centre of the crank so the torque you're using doesn't spin the crank.
 
3.5 efi said:
There is a triangle type 3 bolt. I've only done the 4 bolt types but the trick is to push up towards the centre of the crank so the torque you're using doesn't spin the crank.
Click to expand...

Would reconnecting the handbrake momentarily and putting it on help at all? I guess you could even just tighten it up at the back until it locks.
 
Littelwill said:
Thats not a bad idea Grrr....
Click to expand...

No idea if it will work though. It'll stop the transfer box moving, I think. If the gearbox is in park then the output shaft should be held. What happens in between is a mystery to me!

Anyone know?
 
Just wedge something in between the starter ring teeth and casing to stop engine turning while undoing bolt you can see then turn engine round to next bolt.
 
You cannot lock the crank via the gearbox, the torque convertor will always let it spin.
I use a big spanner on the front crank nut across to a chassis leg to lock the crank, it's done up horrendously tight so no risk of it coming loose.
 
Thanks guys all out and fitting new plate as we speak. Old one was worn and one of the bolts was lose...
 
Ok so I fitted my new flex plate over the weekend. It wasn't that hard to do really. A lot of time was spent carefully reading RAVE. Took it on a 72mile trip on Sunday afternoon and the vibration seems to have gone!!! It also seems to idle a lot quieter but maybe I'm just thinking that. I'd say that although it was a ball ache to do on my back. I took my time over the weekend and wasn't bad.

In conclusion I'm glad I bit the bullet and just did it!
 
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