andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
After that you get a 'like' for sheer stamina!
Shaun4456
Active Member
Hi
The test meter I used was mega cheap one was new but cheepo
Is there any other way to test
fluid temperature
Car had dinostics done and pinged up
2/4 brake duty selonoid
But was not resistance checked
Boy tested old one when was taking out was goosed and checked new one before fitting new one
Will test fir 2/4 brake timing selonoid tomorrow
Freelander 2005 td4 2lt automatic
Starts with no lights
But soon as put in rev or drive
F4 and yellow decent pop up
1st gear
Rev
But in drive it's feels like 4th
No 2nd gear ,feels like 4th
Hippo
Lord Hippo
Yer auto has a number of sensors to take measurements and 3 solenoid valves it switches on and oft in a pattern in order to control the flow of auto fluid to the different clutch packs. This makes the clutches slip or not slip, which allows drive power to flow through the different gear set options. That's kind if how it controls gear changes.
Yer has a problem on the 2-4 brake timing solenoid. Its value is near zero which is a short circuit. The fault is either the solenoid coil failed short circuit or more likely a trapped or snagged wire ont metalwork. The metal is at ground potential (same as 0volt on the negative battery terminal) so any voltage applied to control the solenoid is killed as it's shorted out.
There's only one way to measure the temperature sensor. By resistance. It's a temperature dependent resister which does as per it's name. To get to it yer need to take the auto gearbox oft the engine. They rarely fail. For some strange reason yours measures a high resistance which is better known as open circuit. Open as in there is a break in the loop. This could be the sensor itself or more likely the wires to it.
The yellow lamp on the dash. When does it come on? When yer press the revs but only when in D or R? Wot about reving in N... does it come on? Yer may also have a pedal switch fault.
Does the dash display and the led's by the gear lever always read correct position of the gear lever?
Yer has a problem on the 2-4 brake timing solenoid. Its value is near zero which is a short circuit. The fault is either the solenoid coil failed short circuit or more likely a trapped or snagged wire ont metalwork. The metal is at ground potential (same as 0volt on the negative battery terminal) so any voltage applied to control the solenoid is killed as it's shorted out.
There's only one way to measure the temperature sensor. By resistance. It's a temperature dependent resister which does as per it's name. To get to it yer need to take the auto gearbox oft the engine. They rarely fail. For some strange reason yours measures a high resistance which is better known as open circuit. Open as in there is a break in the loop. This could be the sensor itself or more likely the wires to it.
The yellow lamp on the dash. When does it come on? When yer press the revs but only when in D or R? Wot about reving in N... does it come on? Yer may also have a pedal switch fault.
Does the dash display and the led's by the gear lever always read correct position of the gear lever?
Shaun4456
Active Member
Hi The yellow decent only comes on when gear stick moved from nutrial or park
Can rev car and no lights come on at all
Only when I move gear stick it threws f4 and yellow decent lights on
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
The gear selection is done with a cable. So was anything done that can affect the cable? I've come across 1 where the lever on the gearbox was dragging on the under tray, causing stiffness of the gear lever.
Shaun4456
Active Member
Not sure as I had some one do selonoid/wire problem
Will need look
Skid plate not been on car in weeks
Will need go look incase he hit sone thing on test run .
Hope it something simple
Drives amazing again But putting in drive so stiff
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
It could be the cable has got wet and corroded. The under try does help keep the cable protected from road spray and impact damage.
Shaun4456
Active Member
Just took cable of
Its free
No problems
It just stiff from gear box
But drives okay
Once in drive it goes alone no problem
Could live with it as it's only stiff
Just worried it's causing damage if stiff
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
That's weird.
The lever on box operates the selector switch and the park pawl. It shouldn't be that stiff, unless park is released while the vehicle is on a hill, when it can come out of park with a bang.
It sounds like some further investigations are done, as you don't want it causing damage .
Shaun4456
Active Member
Took cable of from gear box.
But gear stick moved freely
Not sure how to check gear box now
But gear change was fine before car Was fixed
Hippo
Lord Hippo
It's good to hear it's resolved. Eye'll have a cerryade with an umbrella.
Shaun4456
Active Member
Hi i checked the gear leaver with cable disconnected from gear box
Was free
Still got sticky gear stick
Not like braking arm to put in drive
Just feels stiff
Could it be the brake pedal switch not working right??
There is no light flashing etc
Drives well just stiff gear stick
Notice in drive with foot on drake it's a bit juddery
Was free
Still got sticky gear stick
Not like braking arm to put in drive
Just feels stiff
Could it be the brake pedal switch not working right??
There is no light flashing etc
Drives well just stiff gear stick
Notice in drive with foot on drake it's a bit juddery
Shaun4456
Active Member
I used the auto fluid I was told to use on hear
Flid levels was done
Left engine running till got above 35 0c to 45 0c opened valve at 40 with laser temp gun
Had car running
Stopped car ans topped up 1\2 lt
Started it till temp was 40 again and opened valve with engine running till fluid stopped running out
It not braking arm yo change gear
Just feels stiffer than was before
Flid levels was done
Left engine running till got above 35 0c to 45 0c opened valve at 40 with laser temp gun
Had car running
Stopped car ans topped up 1\2 lt
Started it till temp was 40 again and opened valve with engine running till fluid stopped running out
It not braking arm yo change gear
Just feels stiffer than was before
SouthYorks
Member
Hi all. Thought I'd add onto this tab instead of creating a new one !
I have a 2006 FL1 2.0 TD4
F4 and orange HDC light present as soon as put in D . N&D illuminates Simultaneously.
Does not change gear in sports mode .
I've changed the 2/4 brake duty solenoid and done some resistance tests as follows
co243 (left hand side larger barrel)
Started with all the sensors .
Turbine pin sensor pin 3-4 - 585 ohms
Vehicle speed sensor 5-5 - 582 ohms
Fluid temp sensor pin 7-8 - 1651ohms ( car was warm so about right )
All sensors tested within range .
Next I've tested all the solenoids on the same barrel plug .
Shift solenoid a - 174 ohms way out
Shift solenoid b - 177 ohms way out
Shift solenoid c - 176 ohms way out
Low clutch timing solenoid- 172 ohms way out
2-4 brake timing solenoid- 175 ohms way out
Reduction timing solenoid - 170 ohms
Lock up solenoid - 140 ohms
Line pressure ssolenoid- 037 ohms
2-4 brake duty solenoid- 035 ohms
I THEN CHECKED FROM C0932
MAIN TCM PLUG results are as follows
.vehicle speed sensor pins 5-20 1700 ohms
.intermediate speed sensor pins 21-20 1 ohms ●Open circuit?●
.turbine speed sensor pins 24-20 1 ●I belive only the v6 has this ? Using a v6 specs with a jacto Box●
.Fluid temp sensor pins 39-20 1 ohms ●? Open circuit ? This tested good at the barrel plug?●
Solenoids tested from C0932
.2/4 brake duty solenoid pins 3-17 flashes 1500ohms upwards ?
.2/4 brake timing solenoid pins 4-17 flashing 807 ohms upwards?
.Reduction timing solenoid pins 10-17 flashing 400ohms upwards?
.shift solenoid valve A B & C pins 15-17 14-17 52-17 flashing 1300 300 176 ohms ?
.lock up solenoid pins 16-17 flashing 1100 ohms upwards
.line pressure duty solenoid pins 17-18 526 ohms
.shift solenoid c pins 52-17 176 ohms
●funnily enough this is the only one to share the same resistance as tested at barrel plug
.low clutch timing solenoid pins 53-17 210 ohms
Any ideas ? Am I simply looking for a short/ open circuit? Or should I be focusing else where
Thanks
I have a 2006 FL1 2.0 TD4
F4 and orange HDC light present as soon as put in D . N&D illuminates Simultaneously.
Does not change gear in sports mode .
I've changed the 2/4 brake duty solenoid and done some resistance tests as follows
co243 (left hand side larger barrel)
Started with all the sensors .
Turbine pin sensor pin 3-4 - 585 ohms
Vehicle speed sensor 5-5 - 582 ohms
Fluid temp sensor pin 7-8 - 1651ohms ( car was warm so about right )
All sensors tested within range .
Next I've tested all the solenoids on the same barrel plug .
Shift solenoid a - 174 ohms way out
Shift solenoid b - 177 ohms way out
Shift solenoid c - 176 ohms way out
Low clutch timing solenoid- 172 ohms way out
2-4 brake timing solenoid- 175 ohms way out
Reduction timing solenoid - 170 ohms
Lock up solenoid - 140 ohms
Line pressure ssolenoid- 037 ohms
2-4 brake duty solenoid- 035 ohms
I THEN CHECKED FROM C0932
MAIN TCM PLUG results are as follows
.vehicle speed sensor pins 5-20 1700 ohms
.intermediate speed sensor pins 21-20 1 ohms ●Open circuit?●
.turbine speed sensor pins 24-20 1 ●I belive only the v6 has this ? Using a v6 specs with a jacto Box●
.Fluid temp sensor pins 39-20 1 ohms ●? Open circuit ? This tested good at the barrel plug?●
Solenoids tested from C0932
.2/4 brake duty solenoid pins 3-17 flashes 1500ohms upwards ?
.2/4 brake timing solenoid pins 4-17 flashing 807 ohms upwards?
.Reduction timing solenoid pins 10-17 flashing 400ohms upwards?
.shift solenoid valve A B & C pins 15-17 14-17 52-17 flashing 1300 300 176 ohms ?
.lock up solenoid pins 16-17 flashing 1100 ohms upwards
.line pressure duty solenoid pins 17-18 526 ohms
.shift solenoid c pins 52-17 176 ohms
●funnily enough this is the only one to share the same resistance as tested at barrel plug
.low clutch timing solenoid pins 53-17 210 ohms
Any ideas ? Am I simply looking for a short/ open circuit? Or should I be focusing else where
Thanks
