Tonks4x4

Active Member
Range Rover classic flapper type injection system.

I have lost the will to live with this install. How hard can it be there is only 4 wires????
I have checked everything I can think of apart from setting fire to it...

Live feed 12v to efi loom (Brown Wire)
Ignition live 12v to efi loom (White wire)
Start signal wire to efi loom (Red/White wire)
Feed to fuel pump (White/purple wire)
all earths are clean and correct.

I have tested the following items on another vehicle to make sure they run.
2 x ECU's
3 x Air flow meter's
3 x Resistor packs
3 x coils (various types of ballast non ballast)
2 x complete efi looms

The engine cranks.
The dizzy is giving a pulse signal. (checked on an ocilloscope)
The coil is triggering and giving a spark to all 8 cylinders.
The engine has good compression
The fuel pump runs and is piped up the correct way (ie it retains good pressure in the rail)
When cranking the 9th injector opens and allows presurised fuel as a mist into the plenum.
I have tested and swapped several times the 3 relays and the electronic bridge (Red relay like unit)
Injectors have a live feed to them when ignition on.
Continuity tested each and every wire

BUT WILL IT OPEN THE INJECTORS TO LET FUEL IN?????????????????????

No will it hell.....

I am not getting the earth trigger to the injectors (Pins 28,29,30,31) on ecu to allow fuel to pass.
What am I missing???? please help.

I can manually earth the injectors to pass fuel and it will run for about 10 to 20 seconds obviously I am not quick enough to keep up the pulsing....

Brian
 
Bit tricky that!!

I'm afraid I can only give you a best guess. You've checked and tested the main bits si it is something small and difficult to spot. You say you can get it to fire and sort of run if you manually switch the injectors but you say you have good clean earth. Injectors say no!!

I would be inclined to swap you injector harness, could be a broken wire unless you have made a satisfactory continuity test on the wiring. failing that I can only say some sort of ECU problem.
 
I have tried 2 injector harnesses and done a continuity test on both. I have even bridged fresh earth wires to the ecu straight to the battery.

And don't forget all components were tested and driven on another car yesterday and worked great... :-(
 
hope these are some help assuming MFI rave classic RR you may already have them .:doh:
 

Attachments

  • Scan-100210-0012.jpg
    Scan-100210-0012.jpg
    208.7 KB · Views: 802
  • Scan-100210-0013.jpg
    Scan-100210-0013.jpg
    209.7 KB · Views: 757
  • Scan-100210-0014.jpg
    Scan-100210-0014.jpg
    215.7 KB · Views: 960
  • Scan-100210-0015.jpg
    Scan-100210-0015.jpg
    214.7 KB · Views: 629
  • Scan-100210-0016.jpg
    Scan-100210-0016.jpg
    218.4 KB · Views: 2,333
There is/was a member on here who knows lots about injection systems, I found a link in an old post that might be useful. Have look around this site - loads of useful info, hints and tips.

Rover SD1 Efi System Components

Just had a quick breeze through some of the stuff on ramons site - more than I remember; respect to that man!
 
Last edited:
BUT WILL IT OPEN THE INJECTORS TO LET FUEL IN????????????????????? No will it hell.....

I am not getting the earth trigger to the injectors (Pins 28,29,30,31) on ecu to allow fuel to pass. What am I missing???? please help.

I can manually earth the injectors to pass fuel and it will run for about 10 to 20 seconds obviously I am not quick enough to keep up the pulsing....

Brian

Hello Brian, You are missing the ECU trigger signal from coil negative to pin 1 of the ECU via a 6800 ohm resistor on a White/Black wire, explained here:

Rover SD1 Efi Trigger Resistor

Homer Simpson had a word for this: DOH!

My cct diagram shows how:


Ignition02.png


Check out the other Efi component archive material.

Rover SD1 Efi System Components ... Converting this ... :5bbanghead: ...into this ... :5bhurray:
 
Thanks for your reply, problem was found with
1. The main relay had been replaced with a relay with pins 87 and 87a instead of 2 pin 87's
2. Throttle potentiometer read correct voltage closed and correct voltage open but had erratic readings in between.
 
Oh Well! And there's me thinking that because the white/black wire from coil negative to pin 1 ECU was not on your concise checklist, that must have been missing and it would have precisely accounted for the symptoms too.

I'll go backto sleep now, causes less confusion all around. Apologies

Ramon
 
Hullo people,i have the same problem with my rrc.No injectors opening,i am trying to get a janspeed single turbo to run my 3.9.Its a Zytek ecu,which i have no info wiring wise on.It came already wired into a 3.5 inj loom,so i thought it was going to be plug and play so to say.It fires of the cold start,spark is fine,and there is a wire under the bonnet that when powered the cold start clicks?does that power anything else?plus am sure when cranking one of the silver relays by the ecu clicks away rapidly,in time to the spark maybe?
any pointers would be very helpfull,something simple it must be says me,lol.thanks paul.
 
Range Rover classic flapper type injection system.

I have lost the will to live with this install. How hard can it be there is only 4 wires????
I have checked everything I can think of apart from setting fire to it...

Live feed 12v to efi loom (Brown Wire)
Ignition live 12v to efi loom (White wire)
Start signal wire to efi loom (Red/White wire)
Feed to fuel pump (White/purple wire)
all earths are clean and correct.

Brian

Hi everyone,new to the site.Having same issues as Tonks after install into 90 but without spares to swap out or another vehicle to evaluate parts.Starts on a flick of the key then slowly dies(10 seconds at best).Runs fine if after initial start up i run a live feed to fuel pump.Any ideas or suggestions greatly appreciated.

Vince.
 

Similar threads