Hi folks,

Vehicle is a 2007 Freelander 2.

I've looked into this a fair amount online, but haven't found a clear answer on what to do.

I found a few related threads on a Freelander forum I am not a member of, so I figure I'll ask here. On those threads there was mention of the FL2 going into a hibernate mode if it's not use for more than a month. This vehicle has not been used for a month, so that is likely.
And, in which case the fob won't be able to do anything. Seems like that's what is occurring.
So, as we know, we have to use the key entry on left door. But, then there was mention of the vehicle having some kind of "deadlock mode", in which case using the key won't work. Although some people seemed to think it would work if enough force was applied.

It makes no sense to me that the one way LR allow for fob-less entry into the vehicle is not possible (due to "deadlocking") in one of the most likely situations you'd need to do so. Is this for real?

I am away from the vehicle, and it's a friend who is trying to open it for me. When she turns the key it gets to the point where it feels like she'll be breaking it before anything happens.

Can anyone enlighten me as to what might be required to open the door?

It's three hours of driving for me to go and sort this out myself... but I want to ensure I have some idea of what the solution might be before I do that.

Thanks very much...

Security on 'modern' Landies, which is probably no different to any other modern car, baffles me.

It appears far to complicated - the only ones knowledgeable enough to get around it are the ones that nick them!

I've not heard of a hibernate period timeout - I would think it strange if there is one, but nothing would surprise me.

I would think it more likely that the battery has been drained which is why the fob does not work, and the key is probably not directly connected to the latch mechanism but has a solenoid in there somewhere actioned by the car's security system - neither of which will have power if the battery is completely drained. I doubt a coat hanger can be used to open the bonnet for access to the battery!

I know so little about these things that any advice I give will simply be a waste of your time.

The only thing I'd say is that trying to force the key to work sounds like an expensive mistake to me.

I believe @td4van knows about this sort of stuff and maybe @Nodge68 - these are just names I can think of to tag, there may be others. You'll be lucky to get advice out of the UK at this time though.

Is the car out in Golden Bay or is it in a city somewhere?

Is there a light in the cabin that flashes when the car is locked and alarmed? There is on F1 - if there is on F2 and its not flashing, it would indicate the battery is dead - or some other malfunction I suppose.

Yeah, it's all rather new to me. Seems beyond absurd that getting access to one's own car can become near impossible due to designed features from the manufacturer.

This was one (of a few) places I read about the "hibernate mode". Elsewhere I saw it called a "sleep" mode. http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic8513.html

> "The car goes into hibernation after about 4 weeks to protect the battery, it's quite normal happened to me a couple of years ago and others on here have had the same issue, nothing to worry about better than a flat battery."

The car is in Motueka Valley, so not quite as remote as GB.

How on earth does one get access to the battery if it is flat, and you can't get into the car to pop the hood? (it's about now I'd be written a bunch of expletives if I wasn't wishing to avoid offending any one)

Thanks for the input. We're actually selling the vehicle in question. But have to get into it first! If you know anyone on South Island that might want a manual, 2007, Freelander 2, with 132,000K on it, let me know.

The door key should work, and override the deadlock. It's not uncommon for the lock to rust up, stopping from turning. Or the door could have been replaced with the lock, so it now doesn't match the emergency key.
It's difficult to say without being at the vehicle. I'm assuming the battery is flat on the vehicle, or the remote.

Nodge68 said:

The door key should work, and override the deadlock. It's not uncommon for the lock to rust up, stopping from turning. Or the door could have been replaced with the lock, so it now doesn't match the emergency key.
It's difficult to say without being at the vehicle. I'm assuming the battery is flat on the vehicle, or the remote.

Click to expand...

Thanks Nodge68. I'll be taking a can of WD40 with me when I go to sort it out.

And if the car battery is flat, should the key should still work? I assume it doesn't rely on some kind of 12v servo/solenoid?

It could be that the car battery is flat, and also that the key fob battery is flat, as on the FL2 the key fob is charged when it is inserted and the car is started and being used, do you have a spare key fob? but maybe if that as not been used either it could be flat, I alternate mine fob keys, the key should still open the door so the bonnet car be lifted and the battery changed for a good new one or charged up for at least 24hours off the car.

The sleep mode is a thing and a pain at times!

Manual door lock should work regardless of vehicle battery state - often seized up due to lack of use

Might be able to get power onto starter motor if vehicle battery flat

td4van said:

The sleep mode is a thing and a pain at times!

Manual door lock should work regardless of vehicle battery state - often seized up due to lack of use

Might be able to get power onto starter motor if vehicle battery flat

Click to expand...

When you say power onto starter motor, is that like use jump leads from another car/battery, but attach them to the starter motor connectors rather than battery terminals? That would put power into the system so the fobs could open the car and pop the bonnet?

Yes that’s correct - not sure it’s accessible but an option rather then a window smash.

Positive to starter and negative to body

td4van said:

Yes that’s correct - not sure it’s accessible but an option rather then a window smash.

Positive to starter and negative to body

Click to expand...

Accessible once the under belly tray as been removed, 6 bolts only.

Hi just registered to detail my very recent experience of this issue.

I had not been using my 10 year old FL2 (supposedly Sport) much during Covid lockdown - so eventually I came to it this week key fob and spare keyfob would not work opening it.

Flat Battery - although still red dash light flashed for alarm - so not totally but enough not to have power for electric locks etc.

Tried manual key entry - no joy. As I never used this before thought it was seized as it didnt turn like I expected a "manual key" to do - but I will come back to that below

Long story short I considered trying these options:
1) Access to bonnet cable from underneath? - what I thought was the cable was a coolant line so new which I accidentally cut DOH! Homer!
2) Unbolting bonnet latch - left it as didnt wanna wreck things more than I had
3) Jump leads on motor underneath - didint seem to work possible immobaliser getting in the way on the circuit between it and battery?

Eventually after a few days, because I had a scratched driver side window from a bin wagon a year earlier and had intended to replace it - I smashed that and gained entry.
Put key fob in and alarm stopped.

After a bloody clean up - those windows are tough I would say - I popped the bonnet and charged battery.
It was flat - enough to not start car or not operate windows and locks - but enough juice for the alarm. (unless thats separately powered?)

NOW OUT OF CURIOSITY I tried the manual override again. It worked once battery was charged/charging. Weird as it wasnt for all the days I tried it and when I actually though the two key fobs batteries were dead too (but werent)
So I can only conclude that its a design flaw not a hibernate or deadlock mode - simply because it needs an amount of power to operate it - so it really isn't a proper manual mechanism IMHO
This also might explain why you dont turn it much like a proper manual key mechanism. Still need the actuator to work.

My advice if you find yourself in this situation is find a scrap replacement window for 20 to 40 quid on ebay and smash one and hoover up.
No choice really if the battery is so low it cant have enough ooomf for the manual/keyed override to work

My battery was 10 years old too and found the driver door window cable mechanism was so slack it wasnt closing either by a few millimeters
I was told by the guy who replaced it that was was slightly draining my battery - as motors are trying to still push window to closed position.
Dont know if that's true but seemed plausible.

Anyway hope this might help someone in same position.
Just dont despair, its doable, just make sure you wear eye goggles when smashing glass and go for edge of the glass or get a auto glass tecnhician.
But not "autoglass" brand they are a rip off anyway.

just found this and it has happened to me, not used freelander 2 (2007 plate) for around a month come to start up, found both key fobs not work, so use the secret key only to find that both the keys are uncut. i can see the flashing red alarm light working. now other than break the window can i get in ant other way
i do have a couple of air jacks so i could force the door open just enough to be able to put in a long metal bar, but what to i need to do next? pull door handle, or door lock or is there a door open switch as i would think the dead lock is on
any help would be great

des696 said:

just found this and it has happened to me, not used freelander 2 (2007 plate) for around a month come to start up, found both key fobs not work, so use the secret key only to find that both the keys are uncut. i can see the flashing red alarm light working. now other than break the window can i get in ant other way
i do have a couple of air jacks so i could force the door open just enough to be able to put in a long metal bar, but what to i need to do next? pull door handle, or door lock or is there a door open switch as i would think the dead lock is on
any help would be great

Click to expand...

About your only option is to order a complete key from LR.
The vehicle shuts down the remote fob radio receiver after 28 days of inactivity, to conserve battery power.
When this happens you're supposed to be able to open the passenger door with the emergency key, which you can't do because someone has bought cheap replacement fobs but hasn't had the keys cut to match the lock.

So your only option is to buy a new key using the VIN which will match the lock the vehicle left the factory with. If the door has been replaced, then that won't work either.
Breaking a window might work to access the key dock, but the interior door handles won't as they are deadlocked.

Unfortunately this hibernation mode is a pain if the way to overcome it doesn't work.