The problem is the hole wearing in the bracket fixed to the A and B posts. This allows the roll pin to float around and produce the very unrange rovery 'clatt' noise.
I've used the following bits
Bag of m6 20mm stainless Steel button head bolts(hex drive and cheap from screwfix, also can be used to replace the two bolts holding the bracket on) stainless steel washers and nylon nuts, I had them bits already and a 6" bit of 8mm od nylon air line, this is 6mm id.
Drill worn out bracket holes to 8mm, insert nylon tube into both sides and cut flush with a Stanley blade. One m6 bolt is now the new roll pin, I used washers top and bottom and a nut, two ss bolts to replace the bracket mounting bolts, again with washers if your original bolts look manky.
If you do replace those bolts you will need 3 per door, 4 washers and 1 nut per door.
I learnt that propping the door fully open is important to make the job a doddle, if it closed slightly when you have knocked out the old roll pin and removed the bracket, the check strap gets pushed back into the door and is very difficult to pull back out again making reassembly a pita.
First door took me maybe an hour, mainly because of delays with the check strap issue, the other doors only 10mins each start to finish.
The check strap hole it's self is very touch and doesn't appear to suffer from wear, just the bracket.
Doors super quiet now dont know how long the nylon will last but its quick and easy to replace in the future.

Flossie said:

The problem is the hole wearing in the bracket fixed to the A and B posts. This allows the roll pin to float around and produce the very unrange rovery 'clatt' noise.
I've used the following bits
Bag of m6 20mm stainless Steel button head bolts(hex drive and cheap from screwfix, also can be used to replace the two bolts holding the bracket on) stainless steel washers and nylon nuts, I had them bits already and a 6" bit of 8mm od nylon air line, this is 6mm id.
Drill worn out bracket holes to 8mm, insert nylon tube into both sides and cut flush with a Stanley blade. One m6 bolt is now the new roll pin, I used washers top and bottom and a nut, two ss bolts to replace the bracket mounting bolts, again with washers if your original bolts look manky.
If you do replace those bolts you will need 3 per door, 4 washers and 1 nut per door.
I learnt that propping the door fully open is important to make the job a doddle, if it closed slightly when you have knocked out the old roll pin and removed the bracket, the check strap gets pushed back into the door and is very difficult to pull back out again making reassembly a pita.
First door took me maybe an hour, mainly because of delays with the check strap issue, the other doors only 10mins each start to finish.
The check strap hole it's self is very touch and doesn't appear to suffer from wear, just the bracket.
Doors super quiet now dont know how long the nylon will last but its quick and easy to replace in the future.
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Lower hinge is nice and rusty

That carpet needs a hoover

doriz said:

That carpet needs a hoover

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That's the over mat, it gets covered in sandy grit that sticks to my trainers off the block paviour drive.
The whole car hasn't been cleaned for 8 months because I don't like cleaning things, that's the wifes job and she has been really busy studying. Fresh refurbed wheels spured me into action 2 days ago plus the moss on the roof rails and glass rubbers was getting embarrassing so she got a good seeing to externally. A good seeing to internally is on the cards.
Got to do the hvac Rippon and clock/dash bulbs first. Euro carparts bulbs are rubbish as every one was replaced in the dash plus the clock and 3 have failed in short time.
The 110 hasn't been washed for 2 years, got a karcher steam pressure washer that I've been trying to fix for 2 years on and off, mainly off, so if I do get that going, things will get cleaned every week probably.

Datatek said:

Lower hinge is nice and rusty

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Me tailgate isn't though

Good one.
Maybe this mod will work for the CLAK we get on our Disco 2 doors.

JUKE179r said:

Good one.
Maybe this mod will work for the CLAK we get on our Disco 2 doors.

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Yes please

Good job, however, I would use a bolt rather than a setscrew since the thread of the setscrew can wear the hole in the strap, whereas a bolt has the smooth shank bearing on the strap-hole, should never really wear at all then.
Sorry, but its the engineer in me coming out!!

Agreed but I had these bolts in stock. I did try to drill the straps in situ to 8mm so there would be continuous nylon tube but my drill bit wouldn't touch them. So I decided that a little bit of thread rubbing on them wouldn't do a lot either. I might remove the straps at some point and get them in the pillar drill with a cobalt bit but I suspect there isn't going to be an issue in my life time anyway.