I've just checked my posts and I bought my Hancook battery 2 and a half years ago. I've kept it maintained all that time and it used to spin the engine over rapidly, I've noticed in the last few weeks that it's just not turning the engine over as well as it used to. Could this be the alternator? I've had problems with the RR batteries since I bought it. Is it an easy job for an auto electrician to test it in situ?
With the engine idling, just after starting, you should see between 14.2 ant 14.7 volts across the battery terminals, anything less and the battery will never fully charge and as a result it's life will be shortened considerably.
 
I ordered the Platinum 642x today as nobody could give me expected or realistic delivery times on the Hankook.
Am also going to remove any redundant wiring and kit. TV screens in the head rests(if I can work out how to get the head rests out) PlayStation 2 under the passenger seat and some old mobile phone wiring. Also found some wiring and a relay for spot lamps scotch locked into the headlight wiring.
 
I ordered the Platinum 642x today as nobody could give me expected or realistic delivery times on the Hankook.
Am also going to remove any redundant wiring and kit. TV screens in the head rests(if I can work out how to get the head rests out) PlayStation 2 under the passenger seat and some old mobile phone wiring. Also found some wiring and a relay for spot lamps scotch locked into the headlight wiring.
Don't remove it, it's original. Just disconnect it;)
 
Don't remove it, it's original. Just disconnect it;)
The screens look aftermarket as they are turned on by a toggle switch in the spare switch position. They power on but nothing is displayed just fuzzy white. The PlayStation is in the workshop on a shelf.
 
So new battery arrived yesterday, gave it a charge overnight and fitted it this morning. Also checked all the cables to and from battery to make sure everything was good.
Let's just say it made a difference straight away, doing the window resets the windows went up and down the best they ever have, the dash lights look brighter and it seemed to start better. I have also removed all the non standard wiring and the headrest screens, yet another bodge job but slightly better bodge than the towbar electrics, no scotch lock connectors ;)
Got two replacement headrests on the way.
Will now need to wait for a few days.
 
So new battery arrived yesterday, gave it a charge overnight and fitted it this morning. Also checked all the cables to and from battery to make sure everything was good.
Let's just say it made a difference straight away, doing the window resets the windows went up and down the best they ever have, the dash lights look brighter and it seemed to start better. I have also removed all the non standard wiring and the headrest screens, yet another bodge job but slightly better bodge than the towbar electrics, no scotch lock connectors ;)
Got two replacement headrests on the way.
Will now need to wait for a few days.
A big battery transforms the P38
 
So the new battery has been in a week, have been out a few times on shortish runs, taking the dogs out and some shopping. So far so good it has started on the button each time and have not been near it with the Ctek :D
Yesterday I ran a lead from the dash to the connection for the LPG ecu power and have put an illuminated switch in the circuit so it's easy to isolate if need be, however today I get in to start and get Fuel gauge fault, temp gauge fault and air bag fault plus the instruments all seemed to stay on :confused: I assumed I had caught something putting my cable in, so worked thought what I had done and no issues. Took the instrument panel out nothing obvious but when it was plugged in hanging in the footwell everything was fine but as soon as I put it back same errors. So took the back off and where the black connector was soldered on you could see cracked solder joints using a magnifying loop. I cleaned and resoldered all the pins and hey presto it seems to have sorted the issue. I guess me poking around in the dash with my dainty mitts must have just been enough to cause it to throw a wobbly. Will hope this is the end of this saga! Until the next one :)
 
With the engine idling, just after starting, you should see between 14.2 ant 14.7 volts across the battery terminals, anything less and the battery will never fully charge and as a result it's life will be shortened considerably.
I've just checked my battery that I thought was kaput and it's showing 14.46V. That's made my day, hopefully get a few more years out of it.
 
I've just checked my battery that I thought was kaput and it's showing 14.46V. That's made my day, hopefully get a few more years out of it.
14.46? is that with the engine running? As Kermit said check the voltage again when it's been stood off charge for a few hours.
 

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