dag019 · Sep 30, 2024

LINK: EXTENDED 2ND ROW FOOTWELL TO REAR FLOOR UPSTAND, FRONT OF REAR TUB – LR DEFENDER 110 & SERIES 2/3 109″ (4 OR 5 DOOR).

Linked above is the part. Has anyone fitted fitted one of these before?

I am struggling to get everything to line up, all be it was the end of the day and it was getting dark when I tried. I am trying to put it over the rear floor as it cannot go under due to the top hat sections and do not want to cut the floor off because then I would lose the top hat supports. Is this how it is intended to be fitted or is the intention that you have no floor left and it has been cut off?

Below are some pictures, please excuse the green glow, it was very wet so was working under the cover rather than removing it. I am not too worried about the distance from the mid crossmember brackets as I know this is bent and the chassis brackets it is welded to are also bent. It is more trying to get the two angle extensions to line up on the sloped wheel box sections. I can get one side lined up but there is then a gap on the other side and I cannot close the gap because it is already sitting flush against the edge of the floor. Am I doing something wrong or do I need to trim a couple of mm off the front edge of the floor to get it all to fit?

mid crossmember bracket gap, not the same on both sides, but crossmember is bent:

lined up flush and correct on passenger side but has a gap on the drivers side:

front edge of the rear floor still original and untouched currently also still has the top hat sections

Flossie · Sep 30, 2024

Cross member is a home made bodge if you don't know?
The rear floor does disintegrate along that front edge so possible you have to cut it back. I made all my own floor, upstand etc so I'm not much help. I would use the 2nd row floor plate as a reference, fit that, then the upstand bolted to a proper cross member and then trim the rear floor as required.

dag019 · Sep 30, 2024

Flossie said:
Cross member is a home made bodge if you don't know?
The rear floor does disintegrate along that front edge so possible you have to cut it back. I made all my own floor, upstand etc so I'm not much help. I would use the 2nd row floor plate as a reference, fit that, then the upstand bolted to a proper cross member and then trim the rear floor as required.

My plan was to use the holes for the c pillar bracket and the floor panel (currently being painted) as reference. I am trying to avoid fitting the new mid crossmember I have as the plan is to body swap to my current 110 once the rear body is refurbished so I have new chassis brackets etc to fit during that process rather than fitting to this rotten chassis to then remove. The existing crossmember is also welded to the chassis bracket the correct one should be bolted to and there is already not much left of them before it is cut off!

I think my first plan is to properly clean up and straighten the floor, you can see the wave in the tophat picture, so that it is definitely flat and then see how far out it from lining up.

The YRM website seems to suggest you cut the floor and top hats off flush with the wheel boxes but I want to avoid that if I can. Also their picture of one fitted seems to show a similar gap to what I have on the drivers footwell so I may be worrying about nothing and once fitted can flatten it down and rivet in place to remove the gap.

julianf · Sep 30, 2024

I've got a 94 csw.

Mine was stuffed. All it is (on mine) is a z section of alloy.

I get a load of metal CNC bent for work, so I just got a matching part made up and fitted that.

Mine didn't have the flap bits. It was just a couple of 90 degree bends.

I drilled out the spot welds, slid it under the main floor, and put pop rivets back through where the spot welds used to be.

No issues, but, again, mine was just a replica of the original and didn't have those 45 degrees flappy bits.

dag019 · Oct 1, 2024

julianf said:
drilled out the spot welds, slid it under the main floor, and put pop rivets back through where the spot welds used to be.

I know the original up stand goes under the floor. Did you have one made the same as the original or did you get it to go back the full length to the wheel boxes? If it was full length how did you deal with the getting the replacement part between the floor and the top hat.

julianf · Oct 1, 2024

dag019 said:
I know the original up stand goes under the floor. Did you have one made the same as the original or did you get it to go back the full length to the wheel boxes? If it was full length how did you deal with the getting the replacement part between the floor and the top hat.

I just made it the same as the original.

dag019 · Oct 1, 2024

julianf said:
I just made it the same as the original.

I am beginning to think that would have been a better option and I did not do enough research of the available panels on YRM before purchasing the extended panel. But I have the extended panel now which has been painted ready to fit. trying to make it easy and replace with a single panel has in fact made it more difficult.
I will hopefully get to have a proper look this afternoon and see if straightening the floor fully allows it to line up properly or at least more closely that it can be made to work. Then I think I will put it on top of the floor rather than cutting the floor. I may be wrong but I think that the couple of mm increase in height should not make a difference either to the seat positions or the c-pillar brackets as from my experience 2-3mm variation is well within land rover tolerance!

julianf · Oct 1, 2024

I'm about to go out in the 110, so I'll take some photos of mine.

I don't think I have the gaps in front of the 45 like you do, but I'm not sure. I remember the end cap bits were a pain to get off as they were trapped by the remains of the c posts.

Let me take some snaps for you. They may or may not help you.

julianf · Oct 1, 2024

The new bit is the upstand thing. The end caps are original, but i put a quick and dirty hit of paint on them.

julianf · Oct 1, 2024

The fold at the top of the new bit is only an inch or two. It doesn't go in far, else you would need to drill out more spot welds.

dag019 · Oct 1, 2024

julianf said:
The fold at the top of the new bit is only an inch or two. It doesn't go in far, else you would need to drill out more spot welds.

Many thanks for the pictures, that is I think what I probably should have gone for rather than the full extended piece as what you have is the same as the original construction.

julianf · Oct 1, 2024

youre miles away, but all it is is a length of alloy with a couple of folds. i think it cost me way less than yrm wanted for the same (which is fair, as theyre retail, whilst, i guess, my price was just costs)

julianf · Oct 1, 2024

dag019 said:
Many thanks for the pictures, that is I think what I probably should have gone for rather than the full extended piece as what you have is the same as the original construction.

Can you just cut yours down with a grinder?

I mean the new part, not the car...

Trim off all the extra stuff to make it like the original?

dag019 · Oct 1, 2024

julianf said:
Can you just cut yours down with a grinder?

I mean the new part, not the car...

Trim off all the extra stuff to make it like the original?

I could but I would then need to get the end floor panels and Probabaly a new tub floor as well. Whereas the extended panel covered all of those parts with holes.

I have been and had a closer look this evening. And I think if I cut about 5mm off the front edge of the floor it will fit correctly. Unsurprisingly the floor is not square so the drivers side where the gap is, it is hitting the floor but the floor is slightly further forward on that corner. So a little trim hopefully solves all the issues and doesn’t effect the top hat.

dag019 · Oct 5, 2024

Some more progress this afternoon although some of it is only temporary. Fitted the sill/B/C-pillar (temporarily) so that I could get the rear floor upstand lined up. This will need to be removed to fit the end caps to the floor as they need the C-pillar mounting holes drilled into them once in place.

This then allowed me to fit the up stand using the c-pillar mounting bracket to line it up. Once in place on top of the existing floor I then riveted the front edge in place to keep its position.

I cannot rivet the back edge into place as I plan on replacing the underfloor crossmember which rivets into place along the back edge of the floor. Once in place with the c-pillars the position evened up compared to my previous worries. Although there is a gap (black on black picture does not show it the best) of 5mm or so I think once the back edge is riveted in place I will be able to bend and rivet the gap closed and most importantly the gap is equal on both sides.

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