sprie

Active Member
i know the real challenge is fitting the bearing caps in the block, but before i get to that stage, i need to fit my new cork t seals in their slots. As you can see the cork is much wider than the slot. I have soaked them overnight in oil, and also cut a very small chamfer to try and help them in.
I think to get them in, I either have to use a lot more violence or i cut a sliver off the edge to make them a bit thinner.
I know they need to be under compression so that they fill the gap between the caps and the block, but at the moment, i think i am likely to ruin the seals trying to squeeze them in.
 

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The modern way is to not bother with the T seals and just use RTV high temp silicon.
On the you tube have a look at " Britannica restorations Fitting the crank" about half way through video.
 
Personally I use RTV with great success. I had to swap the T seals on my 2.5 in situ a few years ago and just pumped with RTV instead (cant remember which I used but was a loctite one in a mastic tube I borrowed), much less fiddly than the cork seals, you just have to remember to leave a little proud until it sets
 
Why wouldn’t one press them in the vice between steel plates before instillation, then soak them in oil so they then swell in situe.

I used the rubber ones in my rebuild so never used the cork ones. The only thing I had to do was trim the top edge as they squished out but mine is a five bearing ultra modern piece of crap 🤣
 

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