This should be a very straightforward as I already have one fitted to my 110. I have a husky winch (yet to be rebuilt/serviced) and I spent a small fortune in fuel driving to the end of the country to collect a husky specific winch bumper. I am taking advantage of the sunshine (and the wife being away with the baby), to do all the prep work to the bumper prior to getting it galvanised. I have bent up and drilled out the foot plates for the bull bar to weld onto so it will bolt to the winch bumper rather than a standard bumper and was planning on welding on some number plate mounting brackets. In measuring up I noticed that this bumper was not the same as my current one so thought I would test fit the winch as thought there might be a problem. I am trying to copy as closely as possible the setup I already have pictured below:



Although it is clearly a bumper designed to take a husky, as it has all of the correct mounting bolts etc, it does not have space for the solenoid to mount on the end and the plastic cover fitted over (again a small fortune spent to get a non broken one of those). I did think about just trimming the bumper to make room for it but there is not enough space and it would take it a long way past where the bumper mounts to the chassis which would definitely cause a weak spot. I am not particularly happy about it but know that not having the solenoid mounted to the end of the winch is not the end of the world. However What should I do with the solenoid and where should I mount it? I would rather have it on the bumper than in the engine bay so the whole lot can be removed as a single item, and am planning on fitting an albrite solenoid rather than the old fashioned silver cans. Below are the pictures of the problem, although not bolted in it is sat on the riser spacers as it should be. What are peoples suggestions?

Would it fit without the bracket?
Could you mount the solenoid 180 around.
Or weld your new brackets so you lose the extra excess material and thickness?

J

marjon said:

Would it fit without the bracket?
Could you mount the solenoid 180 around.
Or weld your new brackets so you lose the extra excess material and thickness?

J

Click to expand...

No unfortuantly not. The winch is stitring high being caught up on the solenoid. You can see on the 110 picture how much lower it need to sit into the bumper. The top of the bumper line is Probabaly level with the moulding ridge halfway up the solenoid fitted.

Looking at the pics (2 & 3) you are only lacking the bolt head and the bracket thickness?
Does it fit without the bracket? (think you may have said no but not sure)

Take the bracket to the other side (if that makes sense). then you could remove some bumper material.

J

marjon said:

Looking at the pics (2 & 3) you are only lacking the bolt head and the bracket thickness?
Does it fit without the bracket? (think you may have said no but not sure)

Take the bracket to the other side (if that makes sense). then you could remove some bumper material.

J

Click to expand...

I possibly haven't explained my situation well enough. I think the solenoid needs to sit within the bumper with the level of the bumper being the white line on the below picture. In the green circle you can see the start of the bolt hole that should line up with the hole in the bumper below.




The red bracket is also the same width as the tabs that bolt the bumper to the chassis so to remove material and cut a slot in the bumper for the solenoid to fit you would be cutting behind one of the mounting plates. Excuse the poor hand drawn picture below but it illustrated the point. In my untrained opinion this would create a large weak point which is not ideal for a winch bumper?

Remote mount the solenoids?

Yes I can see what you are explaining.
But the bolt holes (in your green circle) how far away are they? the thickness of the head of the bolt and the thickness of the red plate?

Could the solenoid be fixed to the plate higher up (the rusty plate with the selftapper in it) I am assuming that plate just holds the solenoid, could it be mounted higher.

If not and you don't want to remove any bumper metal then as ^^ remote mount the solenoids is the only answer.

J

lynall said:

Remote mount the solenoids?

Click to expand...

marjon said:

If not and you don't want to remove any bumper metal then as ^^ remote mount the solenoids is the only answer.

Click to expand...

I may be able to mount it higher on the solenoid plate (the rusty play you are referring to) but there should be a cover over it all which I have removed for the photographs. I am of the conclusion that the answer is to remote mount the solenoid. Which although not what I wanted should not cause any great issues if I can get it right. The question now is where to remote mount it?
Try and find some space inside the bumper, top mount it like some of the warn ones (although may not be enough space with the bull bars), mount it in the engine bay (my least favoured option). My expiriance is very limited and is just the husky on the 110 which all bolted up as designed form the factory. I had naively expected this one to be the same!

Thought I would continue on this thread rather than starting a new one. I have just picked up and ex-national grid complete husky winch setup including bumper, winch, and power leads (only think missing is hand control) for the same price I paid for the bumper above. It was too good a deal to turn down. So I am going to use this bumper And will Probabaly end up using this winch as well as it was removed from a 2014 vehicle so I am guessing is a 2014 winch.
The winch will need a little work as it has the oversized drum on it which I plan to replace with the standard drum of the 24v husky I have.
I do have one question however. It does not immidiatly appear to have a free spool? I was expecting the lever on the shaft above the motor. But it is not present on this winch and does not look like it has been removed or tampered with (pic below). Anyone have any suggestion?
I have done no research yet and asked here as a first port of call. I should be able to fit the shaft and lever form the 24v version if needed as I have stripped one of these before in the distant past and know they are very basic.