Hi all,
Just having a night mare with my td5 discovery, just replaced front wheel bearing/hub and now have abs, tc and hill descent warning lights on :( they weren't on before I replaced it.
Have had the code reader on down at my local garage and the fault is shown as a intermittent abs sensor fault that keeps coming on after reset.
Has anyone had this problem before?
 
this is the infamous three amigos, there are many, many threads on this subject, just search three amigos
 
try tapping the sensor in further,have you removed sensor whilst fitting new hub,if you removed it they can be tricky to reseat
 
try tapping the sensor in further,have you removed sensor whilst fitting new hub,if you removed it they can be tricky to reseat
Thanks for your reply, no the sensor is a new one that came with the hub. Is there away to eliminate the new sensor? And will I need to have the ecu reset everything I try to eliminate something or will the the lights just go off without having to reset anything?
Thanks
 
the cheap or the not so cheap britpart?... cos at least the one which is not the cheapest has a wabco sensor in it... anyway, do the warnings/fault code come on instantly after reset or only after you drive it a bit?... swap the new sensor with the old one if you still have it, tap it gently into it's place before you tighten the screw
 
the cheap or the not so cheap britpart?... cos at least the one which is not the cheapest has a wabco sensor in it... anyway, do the warnings/fault code come on instantly after reset or only after you drive it a bit?... swap the new sensor with the old one if you still have it, tap it gently into it's place before you tighten the screw
Was the cheap one from island4x4, first reset the lights came on about 400 yards and second reset almost straight away.
Replace the new sensor with the old one and it's made no difference :( will I need to reset it? Or if it was the sensor it would of knocked the lights off?
Thanks for your time in replying
 
Was the cheap one from island4x4, first reset the lights came on about 400 yards and second reset almost straight away.
Replace the new sensor with the old one and it's made no difference :( will I need to reset it? Or if it was the sensor it would of knocked the lights off?
Thanks for your time in replying
Ive fitted the hubs from Island to a mates car, seemed ok, lights went out after reaching about 10mph
 
measure the two sensor's resistances and compare(should be between 950-1100ohm)...if they are quite the same, there could be two things, or there is a wiring issue between the ECU and the sensor or the bub is faulty and the sensor doesnt ''comunicate'' with the reluctor ring... if you have access to tester read live stationary sensor inputs and if they are all the same start driving and if the signal goes bad on that hub ask for another in warranty... if there was no 3 amigos before the hub replacement it's more likely the hub at fault unless you ruined the wiring soewhere when you replaced the hub
 
measure the two sensor's resistances and compare(should be between 950-1100ohm)...if they are quite the same, there could be two things, or there is a wiring issue between the ECU and the sensor or the bub is faulty and the sensor doesnt ''comunicate'' with the reluctor ring... if you have access to tester read live stationary sensor inputs and if they are all the same start driving and if the signal goes bad on that hub ask for another in warranty... if there was no 3 amigos before the hub replacement it's more likely the hub at fault unless you ruined the wiring soewhere when you replaced the hub
Thanks for the reply, will put the tester on the sensors tomorrow. Thinking about putting the old hub back on to see if it is a dodgy new hub. If I did put the old one back on and didn't put the brake disc or cal back on would it be possible to jack each wheel up and start the engine and let it run in gear to test the hub?
 
as the D2 has a central diff and traction controll i won't do that but you can jack up the wheel set multimeter to AC connected to the sensor's plug and spin the wheel with your hand as fast as you can... then you must get growing voltage up to 1.5V or so depends on the speed... or put it on axle stands, start it so and compare the two front sensor's outputs at the same rpm...though plugging in a proper tester would give you live readings
 
Check the connection.fitted a cheap hub to a pals td5 and the 3 amigos cam back.turned out the reluctor ring in the hub was in pieces.
 
just a quick question is there any way of testing with a multi tester the male connection that goes into the female connection of the abs sensor?
 
yes. you must get behind the glovebox to the SLABS ECU, unplug C0505 and measure resistance on the pins going to the problematic sensor with sensor connected while you jiggle the wiring...if you'll see the resistance oscillating it means there's a problem within the loom/plug, the connections are as follows:

C0505
1 Front left wheel speed
2 Front left wheel speed
3 Rear right wheel speed
4 Front right wheel speed
5 Front right wheel speed
6 Rear right wheel speed
7 Rear left wheel speed
8 Rear left wheel speed

C0505.JPG
 
yes. you must get behind the glovebox to the SLABS ECU, unplug C0505 and measure resistance on the pins going to the problematic sensor with sensor connected while you jiggle the wiring...if you'll see the resistance oscillating it means there's a problem within the loom/plug, the connections are as follows:

C0505
1 Front left wheel speed
2 Front left wheel speed
3 Rear right wheel speed
4 Front right wheel speed
5 Front right wheel speed
6 Rear right wheel speed
7 Rear left wheel speed
8 Rear left wheel speed

View attachment 90203
Thanks for that, did the testing and there was no change in resistance when wriggling the connection or loom just stayed at 954 ohms

So I have the old sensor and old hub back on and the lights are still on :( after test drive
Don't suppose you have other ideas to check?
 

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