yeah, it felt fine going in by hand... until I got it as tight as I could by hand! Ah well... it's done now (apart from needing to be heli-coiled at some point and an original drain plug put back in). Just the ATF & diff oils to change now and the rest of the service! Might do that this weekend if I can muster up the energy!
 
So...

first of all, does anyone know the part number for the transfer box drain plug? I know any bolt will do, but i'd like the one with the magnet on top preferably ...and no - it's not one of those 25mm tapered 1/2 inch square drive ones... it's an M6 bolt with magnet on top. Here's what the old one looked like (with the threads stripped and magnet removed:

25076d1314564225-fishsponges-ongoing-thread-problems-transfer-box-01.jpg


I could also do with the part number for the transfer box inspection cover gasket. Is FRC5416 the right one? My silicone doesn't seem to be up to the job (potentially).

Also, what torque should the inspection cover bolts be done up to? It was weeping oil after my journey to work this morning, but I don't want to overtighten them and kill those threads too.

I can't find either of these bits of information in the manual, RAVE or anywhere!
 
Last edited:
fishsponge said:
So...

first of all, does anyone know the part number for the transfer box drain plug? I know any bolt will do, but i'd like the one with the magnet on top preferably ...and no - it's not one of those 25mm tapered 1/2 inch square drive ones... it's an M6 bolt with magnet on top. Here's what the old one looked like (with the threads stripped and magnet removed:

25076d1314564225-fishsponges-ongoing-thread-problems-transfer-box-01.jpg


I could also do with the part number for the transfer box inspection cover gasket. Is FRC5416 the right one? My silicone doesn't seem to be up to the job (potentially).

Also, what torque should the inspection cover bolts be done up to? It was weeping oil after my journey to work this morning, but I don't want to overtighten them and kill those threads too.

I can't find either of these bits of information in the manual, RAVE or anywhere!
Click to expand...

Gasket - FRC5416

DO NOT USE SILICONE!!! That is for sealing sinks, not flaming land rovers :mad: Also, do the bolts up just enough to feel tight. Assholes to the torque figure. Unless you have a decent calibrated wrench, there isn't any point.

And you can find the rest. A simple internet search will reveal all :doh:
 
Thanks for confirming the gasket part number... any idea about the drain plug part number though, or the torque values for the inspection cover bolts?

I've tried searching already, but I will try again... leave it with me for a bit.

As for silicone... it was all I had! Not ideal, I know, but given the situation, what else could I have done? lol
 
Right... is the drain plug 599552P ??

If so, the only people who sell it appear to be rimmer bros.

I also can't find the right washer anywhere to go with it.

Regarding the torque values, I can't find them anywhere either... really I can't.

I'm searching for stuff like "transfer box drain plug part number" and "transfer box inspection torque" etc...
 
perfect for a manual gearbox, yes.

I need one for a transfer box though.

My one looked like this:

25076d1314564225-fishsponges-ongoing-thread-problems-transfer-box-01.jpg


Craddock's one looks like this:

FRC6145-DRAIN-PLUG.jpg


The magnet on mine was the same width as the bolt (minus the thread) and is now missing from the top of the bolt.

The magnet on this bolt is much smaller than the width of the bolt.

They are not alike... really they're not.
 
Drain plug = 599552, sealing washer = FRC4808, gasket = FRC5416. Ignore what came out someone may have bodged it in.

The most important part no. to buy is:- RTC9947CF ;):D
 
thanks, gratch! that's fantastic.

I will try to buy RTC9947CF when I have a bit more money... £35 or so is more than I can spent at the moment... and I know I spent a load of money on the service and I'm about to spend more money getting the transfer box heli-coiled, but I have no choice about that, of course... :)
 
fishsponge said:
thanks, gratch! that's fantastic.

I will try to buy RTC9947CF when I have a bit more money... £35 or so is more than I can spent at the moment... and I know I spent a load of money on the service and I'm about to spend more money getting the transfer box heli-coiled, but I have no choice about that, of course... :)
Click to expand...
Why not retap the hole, take your present plug and go to something like B&Q and get the next bigger plug and borrow a tap and rethread it?
 
I could do, but then the plug wouldn't have a magnet attached to it. For the sake of a couple of quid, I'd rather have the original plug and the hole heli-coiled to the correct size.

If I was going to just use a larger bolt, i'd just go and buy a normal M12 bolt and it'd be the equivalent to what I already have - a piece of threaded bar with a nut on the end!

It looks like my local Landy place might do it for £45 or so at *most*, including draining the oil, refilling it, heli-coiling the hole, supplying a new original drain plug and re-gasketing the inspection plate. Money i'd rather not pay, but for peace of mind and not having to use that bloody Draper suction pump again, I think it's worth it.

My house still stinks of EP90 and so does the *inside* of my car! Oh, and the drive outside my house is horrible and stinks too now! lol
 
My this is a mammoth thread! It has taken me three months to read it, so I had to write something! :D

MudRat
 
Save your money mate !.

I.ll make some time and re-seal the inspection plate for you.

I,ve got a mate whose got some Heli-coils, ( which I,m sure I could blag one of ), and my pump will put the EP90 back in in 2.5 minutes !.

What you/me have done will be fine for the short term.

Del.
 
matthew2riches said:
Gasket - FRC5416

DO NOT USE SILICONE!!! That is for sealing sinks, not flaming land rovers :mad: Also, do the bolts up just enough to feel tight. Assholes to the torque figure. Unless you have a decent calibrated wrench, there isn't any point.

And you can find the rest. A simple internet search will reveal all :doh:
Click to expand...
you may use a gasket on sump but other housings must have silicone or similar as on 300 tdi models lr dont use gaskets in transmission and doing so will alter shimming on brgs by about 12 thou per gasket ,silicone works well and there are 2 x bolt near drain bung that go right through case and need sealing on threads before fitting the rest on sump dont as holes are blind
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

D
L320 TDV6 multiple issues at once with power drop
2 3
Replies
43
Views
3K
Graculus
Graculus
Goc3k
Discovery 1 SOLD 1997 300TDI manual D1, Winchester
Replies
16
Views
3K
Goc3k
Goc3k
P
NEW OWNER OF A RANGE ROVER SPORT 3.6 TDV8 HAVING SUSPENSION PROBLEMS
Replies
3
Views
1K
brianp38dse
brianp38dse
Captainflint1967
Landrover Defender 90 200Tdi - Brakes/calipers , Radio electrics and security
2
Replies
31
Views
3K
KISSMYAURA
KISSMYAURA
19_Hue_95
Possible swivel problem?
Replies
9
Views
2K
19_Hue_95
19_Hue_95