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Lmccumesky

New Member
Hi All, I bought my first Freelander a couple of weeks ago and plan to do some work on it.
These are,
1. Fit prop shaft (previous owner removed it) - I have bought a second hand one from eBay so no idea what the VCU is like on it. 2. find out why the heater blows out nothing but cold air!
3. Replace all oils and filters etc

To fit the prop shaft, do you think it will be possible to do this with 2 wheels on axel stands? Or do you think I will struggle with access?

I’m new to all this so will probably ask some stupid questions for a while!
 
1
First question is why were the propshafts removed?
Normally they are removed because the VCU has gone stiff from incorrect tyres (odd makes). When the VCU goes stiff, with odd tyres, then the IRD takes a pounding and starts to collapse. Removing the propshafts is a way to prolong it's life. Normally these vehicles are sold as "propshafts removed to improve MPG" which is a complete lie, as there's no noticeable difference in MPG between the props being fitted or not.

2
Heater can be cold if it's airlocked (1.8 or KV6) or the engine not getting hot (thermostat fault on the TD4)

3
I can get under my FL1, simply by driving one side onto some 2" thick planks.
 
There will be others more qualified than I to comment but the usual reason for the removal of the prop shaft is either a damaged VCU, IRD or differential, or maybe both.

It’d be worth fitting the prop and then carrying out the One Wheel Up Test to get an idea as to the health of the VCU before attempting to drive it in 4wd.
 
You should search on here for threads about reinstalling prop shafts - there are a number of considerations, which might result in damaging your car. It depends on why the props were removed (and ignore what ever the seller said was the reason) and, as you say, whether the VCU you have acquired is any good.

Some additional space under the vehicle is handy/needed - but not an awful lot, everything is accessible quite easily. Make sure you get the fixing bolts when you get the props - 4 for rear diff, 4 for VCU carriers and 6 for IRD with 3 brackets/washery things (maybe x2).

The heater matrixes leak on Freelander and they are a bugger to change - check the hoses in the engine bay where they go through the bulkhead to see if they have been disconnected ! My L Series only blows cold when its lot on coolant (see previous sentence!) - the L Series can handle a bit of low coolant, if its a petrol K series, they can't!

Good luck with the car. Make sure all tyres are matching (same size, make and model) if you are reinstalling props - do not run with mismatched tyres.
 
Check the oil in the IRD before you do anything - if its grey (bearings gound to a pulp and suspended in the oil) or there are signs of metal in the oil - then not advisable to reinstall props. There are other checks (as I say have a search).

If you remove the drain plug on the IRD - ALWAYS crack the fill plug first - they often round off and if you have drained the oil - you're knackered. always use good 6 sides sockets.
 
Thanks for all the reply’s guys. I plan on getting started on the work after Xmas so will do plenty of research before I do anything.

It is a 53 reg, 1.8 petrol engine. Got 100k on the clock
 
Lmccumesky said:
Thanks for all the reply’s guys. I plan on getting started on the work after Xmas so will do plenty of research before I do anything.

It is a 53 reg, 1.8 petrol engine. Got 100k on the clock
Click to expand...
Welcome aboard! :D

I bought mine (a 2001 1.8 3door) as "spares and repairs" from the Bay of Fleas. You'll enjoy working on it I think; these are nice cars to work on and everything is pretty straightforward.

I suspect that you've already read about the VCU - and have a good idea what you're looking at. Give the IRD a good inspection and change out the oil. If it comes out all metallic silver, then it has been feasting on its own bearings and will require a rebuild. I've not attempted it myself, but having reading a few threads, it ought not be that frigthening to do! Also check the rear differential and its mounts. There's a chance that the rubber mounts may have given up the ghost and will need replacing. Fortunately, that is straightforward.

If you need a new VCU, then only buy genuine new GKN. If buying reconditioned, then go to Bell Engineering (nothing to do with me, despite similar surname!) - they have a good reputation here, and beware of the charlatans on eBay.

If you need new VCU bearings, then again, only buy genuine GKN - cheap aftermarket stuff will barely last a couple of months.

Great folks here with masses of experience: enjoy your restoration project! :D
 
Welcome to the forum.
What they all said above, with a +1 for Bell Engineering. First class, service-driven little outfit who go the extra mile.
 
Welcome aboard pal, the bolts for the VCU brarings are just standard m8, the ones for the back propshaft to diff connection are similar size, but I'd suggest higher tensile ones for it if you don't have the originals. The bolts for the front propshaft to IRD output flange are a different kettle of fish, there is six (or is it eight?)
of them they are unusually long for their diameter as something around 120mm, skinny, like 6mm, and are paired together by little bananna shaped washers. They have e-torx heads which seem all too eager to round off, so tighten the nut and hold the bolt still, rather than tightening the bolts into the stationary nuts, as doing it that way you will be a lot less likely to round the bolts heads.

I'd say renew the front diffmount, regardless of its current condition, before you do the propshaft, to save you ballache in the future.
 
Another reason for removing the prop shaft is the support bearings are shot and it's cheaper to remove the prop shaft than it is to replace them, if you're lucky this will be the real reason.
I bought a car from a dealer who did this so when I asked about it he just owned up and threw the prop shaft in the boot.
In a 1.8 petrol you'll find the car VERY under steery without 4WD
 
Thanks for all the replies here guys. I was driving the car a few days ago and the engine management light came on. I have checked the engine over looking for obvious things as I am not a mechanic and this is my first “project” car. First of all, there was no coolant!!! I bought the red OAT Copland and filled that up. Once this was topped up I had the engine running for 15 mins or so. I checked the expansion tank and the coolant was still between the min and max level, but there was a lot of yellow/orange gunk on top of it... any ideas on what this could be?

I plugged the diagnostic tool and it said something about the 4th spark plug. I cleared the codes and left the engine going again as I think it may be an old issue. Light has stayed off and the engine sounds fine and starts fine.

I have also noticed that I am getting white smoke out of the exhaust, I think the head gasket may need replacing. Has anyone had a similar issue? Am I right in thinking this is the head gasket?

Cheers
 
Coolant loss can be down to splitting on the coolant reservoir, around the pressure cap.

Replacement is the only cure for this common issue.

Spark plugs should be of the platinum type, or the electrodes burn away quite quickly.

It's common for the K series engine to steam out the exhaust at this time of year. It's not necessarily a sign of HG failure, but could point to an inlet manifold leak, especially if coolant is disappearing and the tank isn't cracked.
 
As Nodge says really. White exhaust could be condensation blowing out of the pipe (should clear quickly) or an inlet manifold leak (in which case the spark plug in either cylinder 1 or 4 will be shiny clean from being steam washed!). But lots of other ways to loose coolant as Nodge says - and not always related to HGF!

On my FL1, I tracked the coolant loss on mine to a blown O-ring seal to the thermostat in the coolant rail. The rail had also suffered some nasty corrosion (previous abuse I think - likely lack of OAT/corrosion inhibitors!) - and there was crud in my expansion tank (that I also replaced, as it was starting to crack). The crud in my case was, I strongly suspect, simply rust (!!!) from the coolant system. But if it is very oily/creamy, it could be from a previous HGF and repair (it doesn't take much to cause a nasty mess).
 
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