ryan_1993

ryan_1993

Active Member
Hi all,

Finally got my funds together and ready, my current vehicle (Polo GTI) is also going away in the coming weeks too.

I've made a quick checklist of problem areas to look out for, just wondered if anyone else had anything to add?

  • Check Rear X Member
  • Check underneath chasis for any type of Rot/rust or major corrosion
  • Check forward bulkhead for any rust of bubbling areas, (been told if the forward bulkhead goes it can cause major problems)
  • Check sunroof and window seals for condition etc
  • check horn/lights/radio/door locks etc.
  • Ensure the gearbox goes into low range and that diff lock engages.
  • check for oil leaks (lol)

Anything else to add more specific for the Defender?

One I am off to look at is a lovely Defender 90 300TDI Factory-built County Station Wagon with a rather impressive MOT history. Only one failure in 15 years (as far back as the MOT website goes back) and that was a broken brake lamp

Thanks
 
Last edited:
If a TD5 check the oil level is correct... if too high could indicate a cracked head and diesel getting into the fuel.

Make sure VIN matches model variant, age, engine type, check it hasn´t been ringed or stolen.

But remember, it is a Defender and it will cost you money to keep right.
 
I would say take someone you trust who knows about Defenders with you. They will have a clear head and not rush in. Check the suspension and the steering components. Try and remain objective (I know it is not easy when you want something!) and good luck.
 
My Old Landy said:
I would say take someone you trust who knows about Defenders with you. They will have a clear head and not rush in. Check the suspension and the steering components. Try and remain objective (I know it is not easy when you want something!) and good luck.
Click to expand...

I do have friend of the families who has five of them, a Defender and then a couple of the Series vehicles, but he is always working away as he's a wagon driver and rarley ever home unfortuntley otherwise i'd bring him. As I know its not like any other vehicle really, and they all have their little quirks
 
ryan_1993 said:
I do have friend of the families who has five of them, a Defender and then a couple of the Series vehicles, but he is always working away as he's a wagon driver and rarley ever home unfortuntley otherwise i'd bring him. As I know its not like any other vehicle really, and they all have their little quirks
Click to expand...

The absolute show stopper is a rotten chassis or bulk head. Everything else can be fixed or replaced. Check these religiously
 
+1 for the VIN number. Run it through HPI to make sure it isn’t stolen. And meet the seller at their home, not some lay-by or car park. Take a screwdriver and hammer and have a poke underneath.
 
Everything has been said really I bought one a couple of months ago using the list linked above. Visually you would walk but bulkhead and chassis solid enough for the money. Everything else is easy enough... just need a lot of patience! If in doubt take some pics walk away get a second opinion will never enjoy it if you regret from day 1
 
Chassis and bulkhead will cost half as much as the vehicle to put right, everything else is doable reasonably cheaply if you have the time and tools
Rotten xmember is par for the course most need them replaced at some point, a few hundred quid
General rule is better to be just a bit tatty on top than a complete rotbox underneath (plenty of shiny examples of those around)
And as some have mentioned do a VIN check
 
I wouldnt worry too much about oil leaks unless it is dripping out, although mine does that with the engine running. If there are no leaks, suspect it has no oil in it. Apart from the visual checks mentioned, a long test drive to get the engine hot is a must.

Col
 
And when you are looking for rot, look really hard. The Chassis tend to rust out where crud has either sat on top of, or inside the box sections. So usual obvious places are outriggers, but also up on the Tub crossmember and above the Damper mounts. Pay close attention to the Dumb Irons behind the bumper - another favourite rot spot.
The Solihull chaps didn’t bother putting drain holes at the lowest points of the chassis rails, so any water and mud helpfully pooled there and slowly ate it’s way inside out.
Pull up the mats and see how the foot wells are rotting - repairable but a pain. If they are really bad you can check the top of the outriggers at the same time…..

Bonne Chance
 
[GALLERY=][/GALLERY]
slomofo said:
And when you are looking for rot, look really hard. The Chassis tend to rust out where crud has either sat on top of, or inside the box sections. So usual obvious places are outriggers, but also up on the Tub crossmember and above the Damper mounts. Pay close attention to the Dumb Irons behind the bumper - another favourite rot spot.
The Solihull chaps didn’t bother putting drain holes at the lowest points of the chassis rails, so any water and mud helpfully pooled there and slowly ate it’s way inside out.
Pull up the mats and see how the foot wells are rotting - repairable but a pain. If they are really bad you can check the top of the outriggers at the same time…..

Bonne Chance
Click to expand...

It may look a little like this taken earlier today, good view point as mentioned to check the out rigger which is solid so handy really . As mentioned check inside the front out riggers hard to see sometimes get on back and have a look, ive got few holes in mine which I didint actually notice when I looked!
 

Attachments

  • 20210806_130700.jpg
    20210806_130700.jpg
    302.2 KB · Views: 158
Kimbo 110 said:
@ryan_1993 is it sat on the drive....?
Click to expand...

yes, I bought it LOL.

Today I also drove a green 300TDI van,( a first for me) but sadly it was just a bit too loud and drony. All previous Landy's I've driven have either been passenger 110's or 90 Wagons, which seem significantly quieter.

Iv ended up with a Metallic Red 1999 90 with 300TDI an original & unmodified factory Station Wagon. (yay cheap insurance) God knows why, but the factory wagons (those classed like a car) seem to be half the price insurance for me compared to a hard-top van.
 
Last edited:
ryan_1993 said:
yes I bought it.

drove my first 300TDI van, but a bit too loud for me.

Iv ended up with a Metallic Red 1999 90 with 300TDI original and all stock factory station Wagon.

I drove a 300TDI 90 hard top Van, liked it but it just wasn’t for me a bit too loud at speed lol.
Click to expand...

Nice, time for a full service and a grease up, followed by a coat of your chosen rust avoidance muck.

Cheers
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
Disco 1 Disco 1 Rust repair prep
2
Replies
20
Views
2K
sv_dOnut
S
H
Electrical, maybe Earth issue
Replies
1
Views
607
Harrymash
H
G
Evoque First RR - advice please!
Replies
15
Views
2K
WhiskyLassie
WhiskyLassie
M
DEFENDER 90 PICKUP
Replies
12
Views
3K
dag019
dag019
S
Defenders Vs Insurers tomfoolery
Replies
1
Views
3K
lightning
lightning