R

rtjdesign

New Member
Hi Everyone,

I am looking at getting a Freelander as my first car, one of the old TD4 possibly. 2.0 Diesel.

I am 20 years old and worked out my insurance to be 1.6k a year which compared to my mate who drives a corsa and pays 3.5k a year insurance! I did not think that was unreasonable at all!

Does anybody have any recommendations on what to look out for? or certain models. My parents used to have the old petrol version where the head gasket went and there was a problem with the clutch so I have been advised off a few people to get the diesel.

For other general problems, my Dad used to be a motor mechanic so generally get it ready for MOT, and do repairs.

What does everybody reccomend?

Many thanks

Ryan
 
You are not going to go far wrong with a TD4, just do all the usual checks and as long as you have bought well you can just enjoy it.
 
Cheers, I thought that was the case after speaking to a few other owners. Obviously I will drag my dad along to check over everything.
 
Regards mileage, I am looking to spend about £1600. They roughly all around 100,000 miles. Is that not bad for a Land rover?
 
Ok for a well serviced TD4.

A stamped up service book may be an advantage but in my experience even franchised garages will miss the most basic items if they think they can get away with it so I would be just as interested in any reciepts that come with it.

We thought my wife's 2006 was set up for a long life as it was main dealer serviced while under warranty but as soon as it came out of warranty and I started to do the work myself I discovered that they hadn't bothered with many items. In my opinion it has been a better vehicle since I have been doing all the servicing myself.
 
I see, but TD4 is the way to go you reckon for a second hand free lander diesel? Rather than the XE or anything else?

I will make sure to have a proper look at the vehicle and test it, if I get it from a private seller many questions shall be asked.
 
XE? Thats a petrol version?

Before 00, all petrol models were Xi, Xei, etc etc, if it doesnt have a D in the tiltle, it aint a diesel...

Up until 00 freelander diesels were L series engines with a turbo intercooler. These were rover engines, directly injected and very reliable.. These were badged as Di (base) XDi (middle) or XEDi (top spec), but the engine in each one was identical, the only deifference was interior spec.

From 00 onwards, the diesels were badged as TD4. Which were BMW diesel engines, but instead of direct injection like the L series engine, they were common rail engines.

Both engines are very good if theyve been taken care of, and should give you minimal trouble. Ive heard that the L series have more torque, but im not sure (hippo on here knows his business, so could ask him)

I know you can run the L series on vegetable oil easily, where as the TD4 doesnt like to run on it so well.. If your insurane is that much :eek:, why not get an L series and run it on veggie oil to save money on fuel????


Anyway, whatever you choose, choose a diesel for god sake..
 
Hi Boots,

Thank you for the information, thats useful! As I had no clue what all the different codes and numbers meant.

So you would say stick to Diesel 100%

SO L series and TD4 are pretty much as good as each other? and the XDi's and Di's. I don't necessarily need power as im not really toeing much at the moment. Its mainly for lugging around diving kit.
 
Hi matey,

Yes - stick to a diesel, avoid the petrol.. As other peeps on here will tell you, if you only check a few things on it, check the following:-

IRD/VCU coupling - one wheel up test (see hippo again - top video on youtube)

The 3 amigo lights on the dashboard all go out after starting (this is the abs light, the traction control light, and the orange hill descent light - you can searh on here for the thread)

All 4 tyres are the same size, with the newest on the back, and preferably all 4 the same make (or if not at least th two on the same axle are the same make)

Service history and reciepts (the more the better)

AVOID anyone who has taken the propshaft off to make it front wheel drive for "economy reasons" - this usually means a busted vcu - if you find one you want and this has happened, insist on driving it with the propshaft back on before buying it - take if for a long test drive, then feel the vcu when you park up.. If its hot, its ****ed..

Some bods on here are well clued up on them (hippo, mad hat man, gstuart, richM, etc etc)

Stcik to a diesel, take your dad, and do all the checks on here that people say, and you wont go far wrong..

My 99 XEDi is on 133k and going super strong, my mates 02 TD4 freelander is on 201k and still going strong too..

Dont worry about milage, its just a number.

And by the way. :welcome2:
 
Thank you, I appreciate the welcome and clearing a few bits up.

The IRD/VCU test looks like a bit of a pain to do if I find one and want to test it on the spot?

The lights look like an easy, test also the tyres.

Is the prop shaft an easy think to notice? ( I am guessing my dad would tell in a glance ).

We have had an experience with the petrol ones as I mentioned so will 100% avoid them.

I will do as many checks as possible and ask many questions. If I can pick one up for about 1.5k it will be perfect, my insurance is not too bad considering what others are paying as first time drivers my age. It will go down over time too, I just can't be doing with driving a little crappy corsa. I am set on a freelander!
 
Its a pain to do, yes - but itll on ly take you 10 mins to jack it up and do the test, and could save you a potential nightmare with problems.

Theres a cracking looking 3 dorr black freelander on ebay for 1600 at the moment, its diesel too and has the removable hard back.. Im sure theres a buy it now of 1600 quid...

Check this link to it out

LAND ROVER FREELANDER CANT SWAP P/X | eBay
 
Right I will make sure I do that then or forever regret it!

Sadly it's green that I think, ( don't ask why but im against that shade of green ) Does look black from some of the photos.

Also it says its had the prop shaft removed???
 
Just to make it clear, i wouldnt buy it, unless the seller would re install the prop and i could test it in 4 wheel drive... But then again i do a lot of towing, and want 4 wheel drive for that and if the weather turns to snow again..

If you just want a freelander for its looks, dont plan to tow, and accept youll get stuck in the snow with 2wd, then theres no reason for you not to buy it..

Apparently, its even more economical in 2wd (about 45mpg apparently)
 
Not too bothered about the extra few mpg you would get from removing it. Id prefer to have it in as I bet we have a heck of snow again like last year.
 
yu do realise that the normal reason for removing the prop is because the VCU has siezed and buggered up the IRD?
I wouldnt touch one wothout a prop unless yu discount a new IRD, VCU and possibly a rear diff off the price :(.
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
yu do realise that the normal reason for removing the prop is because the VCU has siezed and buggered up the IRD?
I wouldnt touch one wothout a prop unless yu discount a new IRD, VCU and possibly a rear diff off the price :(.
Click to expand...

I don't plan on getting one without the prop, want everything in working order. It seems aslong as I stick to a diesel one I will be safe?
 
It's worth doing the vcu check. If not, then you may find it breaks on the way home if they've only just refitted it. £1k to fix... As mhm ses, props and/or vcu removed = problems. If they don't tell you they've removed them, still be suspect. they could have just put them back. Make sure you test drive it for 20 miles to see if any strange noises or clunks appear.

Prop shafts (yellow dots) and vcu arrowed below:

8e4Dw2n.jpg

vcutest 8e4Dw2n
 
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Hi Hippo,

Thanks for the diagram makes my life easier! Do private sellers or trade generally let you test drive it that far?
 
rtjdesign said:
Hi Hippo,

Thanks for the diagram makes my life easier! Do private sellers or trade generally let you test drive it that far?
Click to expand...
See what you can push for. If it were me I'd want it up to 60mph. Also some lower speeds. They may not be happy. If not, then go else where. Look over the car first to see what it's all about first. Offer £5 for fool if they don't like it. At the end of the day they're flogging you a heap, shorry, yer first Freelander. Exchange of your money for their problems, shorry, Freelander. You need to be sure what your getting works. You have to allow for the fact your buying a Freelander priced as 10% of it's new list price, many years old. As with any car (even durdy tratters) yer has to take into account the price and condition. It won't be brand new, but you need to give it a reasonable going over. Yer first step is to come on ere. Keep looking at freds to see typical faults and topics raised.
 
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