I will have a look later, as sister is using it.
I'm using two true MY98 P38', and theese are sooo much better than the one with EGR and MAF.
Less to go wrong and faster. Currently changing engine and making an experiment with bigger turbo(TD04-15T with light compressor wheel) and 11mm pump head. Will see how it works(it if works) - fitting engine today.
Previous engine catched some water into intake almost 2 years ago and i cannot belive it was still working with camshaft ouy by almost 20mm(measured from camshaft lock to head). It was only a little weak up to 2k rpm and hard to start when hot(slow cranking)
.:D
 
I will have a look later, as sister is using it.
I'm using two true MY98 P38', and theese are sooo much better than the one with EGR and MAF.
Less to go wrong and faster. Currently changing engine and making an experiment with bigger turbo(TD04-15T with light compressor wheel) and 11mm pump head. Will see how it works(it if works) - fitting engine today.
Previous engine catched some water into intake almost 2 years ago and i cannot belive it was still working with camshaft ouy by almost 20mm(measured from camshaft lock to head). It was only a little weak up to 2k rpm and hard to start when hot(slow cranking)
.:D

Afraid you aren't, ALL MY 1998 P38s have EGR and MAF sensor. Last MY 1998 P38 was VIN WA410481. First MY 1999 P38 was VIN XA410482.
 
Mine is XA428637. EGR & MAF on original engine. Now has the ally manifold non EGR engine

As said before as long as you have your original loom and ECU and leave the MAF sensor and EGR modulator connected it should run normally. You should have a plug on your loom for the overheat sensor but i cannot see that being disconnected as being a problem unless the sensor goes open circuit to switch on the condensor fans in an over heat situation. I can find no circuit for this in my year 2000 copy of RAVE for some reason unless i am not looking hard enough. So don't know what the circuit it runs through or what effect it may have on other functions, if it for instance runs through the engine ECU as it does on the petrol which has the same overheat set up. As i say you need proper diag to try and find out what is going on. Even then it may not answer all the questions.
 
Both my MY1998 models have no EGR and MAF, last digits are WA389..., WA399...,
MY1999 one is something like XA417 or 412, but have to check this as i don't remember, it's one of the first from MY1999.
 
Both my MY1998 models have no EGR and MAF, last digits are WA389..., WA399...,
MY1999 one is something like XA417 or 412, but have to check this as i don't remember, it's one of the first from MY1999.

If they are MY (manufacturing year 1998) they will have EGR. It was introduced in that MY. Registered 1998 means nothing it is when they were made that counts. There is a cut off time every year for old models to stop and new model to start production ready for sale the year after. Some previous MY models will still be unsold well into the next year, they are usually discounted in the show rooms. ALL MY 1998 models had EGR. Alloy manifold no EGR to WA403803 end of MY 1997 production. Plastic manifold with EGR from WA403804 start of MY 1998 production. If you go into BECM with Nanocom. Settings > Other > page 2 will tell you VIN mileage and date of manufacture.
 
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As far i know "W" in VIN number means 1998 model year.

Listen carefully i will say this only once more. EGR was introduced on the 1998 model year spec. At VIN number WA403804. Anything before WA403804 was built to the MY 1997 spec without EGR. Mine was built in 1998 first registered in 1999. But it is a 1998 spec car not a 1999 spec car. I agree that is what the lists say, but there will always be end of the line anomalies. If you ever fit a replacement head on your 1999 car make sure it will take the plastic manifold. Early heads had no provision for the stud change required. And only the alloy manifold will fit. For late 1997 early 1998 the head casting changed with lugs to take the plastic manifold cast into them, so either manifold could be fitted.
 
Wammers just like to say thanks for the help on Saturday and for those who don't know he is as grumpy in real life as he is on here :DI will definitely purchase a nanocom once back from France and will keep you posted.
cheers,
Hoppy

ps say thanks to your missus for the teas :cool:
 
All fixed? What was it?!

No but some things changed. BECM had a few things disabled. Has Hevac distribution flap problem that would not go away. Tried to calibrate but would not, needs looking at. Maybe tight or carbon dust on blend motor armature causing short. Temp gauge problem. Possibly no or duff thermostat needs looking at. Main thing no boost possibly waste gate stuck open. To far advanced 18% modulation. Lots of things to play with. Should keep him busy for a while. ;);)
 
Wammers just like to say thanks for the help on Saturday and for those who don't know he is as grumpy in real life as he is on here :DI will definitely purchase a nanocom once back from France and will keep you posted.
cheers,
Hoppy

ps say thanks to your missus for the teas :cool:

No problem. Was properly impressed with your missus listening, taking things in and asking questions. Let us know how you get on with the problems identified. ;);)
 

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