It was the turn of the top seal (second from top, actually) in my fuel injection pump to leak. There is plenty of great links on how to do it, including the VW TDIclub forum and youtube video series. I got the full seal set from ebay, and only used the two odd-shaped ones.
After putting everything back together (it is quite easy) my '96 DSE would not start. I did not bother with the JB-Weld technique since I figured I could adjust the fueling with my MSV diagnostics following this link. But, BMW being what they are, the inlet manifold blocks access to the FIP...I was a bit worried, but then I realized that I can actually reach all the pump bolts with the manifold in place! In fact, I took the top off again to make sure the plunger is properly seated (see the TDIclub link), and put it back on properly with no problem at all.
I had to move the top of the pump quite a ways to get the engine running again. But now with the MSV connected I could set the fueling. I did keep a record from before, the current fueling was 17 mg/str. The value for the TDI Golf is 3-5 mg/str, so I was expecting more for the extra 2 cylinders but not 17 mg/str! Searching the great google I settled on 5-7 for the 6-cyl BMW (I would be glad to hear a more professional number...).
Now here comes the best part: I can not tell you what a huge difference this adjustment has made to the car. Before it would downshift to keep at 90 km/h on even the slightest of hills on a motorway, and could not climb a curb without some momentum (why else would you own an SUV?). It is now much smoother and just a totally different car. I can keep up with traffic without having to plan ahead...Even gear shifts are much smoother I assume because the more precise throttle response (does this make sense? I assume the ECU's of the gearbox and the engine are linked to adjust the engine torque and RPM for proper shifting).
One indication I had for the previous three years was that the L/100 km number on the Message Center was WAY off, reading 14 when the car was doing 11 L/100 km measured by brimming. Now it is nearly spot-on.
I think the car now provides what I call 'relaxed motoring' now, much more like the V-8 I had before. I considered chipping it in some way before, but it is not necessary anymore! at least for a while...

You can run the engine without the manifold as long as you make sure there is nothing about to get sucked in.

Hello Dannys,

Great info! I am working on the same problem and find out the same things.
What is the value of the current value now (mg/str). (hot engine at ticking over)
I want to adjust my pump, so i am very curoius about yours. Escpecialy because the on board computer gives the correct fuel consumption.

If anybody nows the official value, please response.

Second question, my be you can make a copy of the screen with the overview of the inputs. I can send you mine als well. I think it is good to compare the values with an other car, just for reference

Fredi

Hi Dannys,

I forgot, beside your current fuel quantity, what is your timing modulation. (hot engine at ticking over)
Hope to hear you soon. Thanks much in advance,
Fredi

Sorry for not following the thread anymore...hope it is not too late:
The mg/str I have set is about 6, engine warm and at tickover. But you can play around with it to get the smoothest running engine, I think. My timing modulation is rather high at 80%, unfortunately, and I could not get it lower even after adjusting the FIP as per RAVE.
I will record the fuel info and post soon.

dannys said:

Sorry for not following the thread anymore...hope it is not too late:
The mg/str I have set is about 6, engine warm and at tickover. But you can play around with it to get the smoothest running engine, I think. My timing modulation is rather high at 80%, unfortunately, and I could not get it lower even after adjusting the FIP as per RAVE.
I will record the fuel info and post soon.

Click to expand...

Modulation is high because the static pump timing is slightly retarded. Ideally it should be 50% but anywhere between 45% and 55% is acceptable.

which direction should the pump go to advance?

dannys said:

which direction should the pump go to advance?

Click to expand...

Towards engine. Last movement when measuring cam lift should always be towards engine, to take up any wear or tolerance gaps in pump. If you make final adjustment away from engine you may well have correct lift on DTI. BUT any slack in the pump will mean the pump is retarded if checked again.

Got it, thanks, I think I did go the wrong way...

ah ok. thanks for the reply. I put my pump first on 3.5 mg/str It runs ok. but the performance was not so high. I did 3 measurements (only short distance, about 3/4 of diesel used) The first reading was 20% less on the display then real. The second measurement was 8,5% to low. Then i put the mg/str on 5.5 Better performance on the car. good acceleration. I did a measurement and alos 8% to low....
I know distance to short. Coming weeks i go for long drives. I will redo the measurement and let you know.
i put my pump on 50% . It is toward engine