Ric82

Ric82

Active Member
Good Morning all

I finally got the old girl running and took her for a maiden voyage on Saturday and she ran a treat. Sunday I thought I would take her out on another run I got about 1 mile from home stopped at the traffic lights and when I went to put the truck back in gear the clutch pedal was rock solid and would not depress.

I have loosened the clutch pipe and the pedal operates no issue.

I'm thinking its either the slave cylinder or clutch bearing would I me right in my thinking?

Also if I'm going to have to remove the gearbox can anyone recommend a good clutch kit?

I should have mentioned it's a 1981 Series 3 2.25 Diesel.

Many Thanks
Richard
 
Last edited:
Is the pivot arm correctly adjusted on the master? Could be preventing return if it is not returning a full stroke.
 
dag019 said:
Is the pivot arm correctly adjusted on the master? Could be preventing return if it is not returning a full stroke.
Click to expand...
The pedal is solid and won't move down at all. but if I undo the bleed the pedal operates.
 
Has the master been replaced? If yes then the adjustment is critical, if the master is incorrectly adjusted between the pivot on the pedal and the actuator rod the cylinder does not allow for the full return of fluid when released. this builds up fluid pressure and releasing the bleed the releases this pressure.
If you have not touched the master recently I would be looking at clutch mechanicals rather than the slave. the slave failure tends to be the opposite rather than a solid pedal. You could remove the slave and the piston seal and inspect, could carefully have an assistant slowly press the pedal and see if it moves. If you are strong enough you could also while removed see if you can depress the clutch actuator. but if the slave is working as it should It is probably splitting the box to investigate further.
 
So I have pulled the gearbox and found the Clutch Fork had come off its ball joint I assume this would have been caused by an incorrectly adjusted Master cylinder?

Many Thanks
Richard
 
Was the retaining piece correctly fitted and bolted to the clutch fork?

Easy enough to replace and not too expensive if it's worn or not there.
 
WoodyO said:
Was the retaining piece correctly fitted and bolted to the clutch fork?

Easy enough to replace and not too expensive if it's worn or not there.
Click to expand...
if you mean the little washer part on the ball shaft it was attached to the ball shaft but looked like it had come off the arm as the arm come straight out when I removed the gearbox, I also forgot to mention that the release bearing had melted together and there was no pin on the arm to the bearing.
 
So I have replaced the full clutch and bearings with a LOF clutch kit and everything seems to be working as expected just want to check the adjustment now. I think the previous owner had installed a new clutch incorrectly as the clutch fork wasn't clipped and the bearing wasn't attached to the fork.

If anyone is interested I created a 3D printed clutch alignment Tool which I'm willing to share the STL if anyone wants to print one.

Many thanks for all your help

Richard
 

Attachments

  • IMG-20220411-WA0005.jpg
    IMG-20220411-WA0005.jpg
    212 KB · Views: 92
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

W
Land Rover series 3 Daihatsu diesel
Replies
8
Views
417
tottot
tottot
D
Spiggot bearing question
Replies
11
Views
663
David g4yvm
D
J
Clutch failure
Replies
5
Views
497
dag019
dag019
P
Clutch stuck 300 tdi
Replies
13
Views
624
portokali
P
S
how to test the gearbox
Replies
6
Views
969
boguing
boguing