LUKBENPHI

LUKBENPHI

Well-Known Member
So after many "what ya think of this?" threads I can officially say I now the prowd owner of a hippo :)

http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201608076574217

From the initial test drive and hour drive after purchase we highlighted some good and bad bits

Good:
Comfy

Drives well

Prop still connected and VCU only gets Luke warm after a good run and only slightly nips up on full lock in reverse (barely notificable really but ill be doing the 1wu test to be sure )

4 new tyres of same brand

All the electrics Windows work

Recent service and a new clutch
Only paid £1350 :)

Decent service history including recent maf and low pressure pump

Bad bits

Clonk from rear under boot when taking up drive at higher speeds ( want noticeable on test drive round housing estate, I suspect diff bushes but yet to check)not noticeable at low speed and you can drive round it to some extent to minimise it )

Brakes are a bit spongy

No aerial for some reason

HDC don't work( light comes up in dash when turning on ignition then goes out but trigger don't work suspect wires loose on Switch

Sh!t headlights on full beam way up in trees so need adjusting down a bit or fit the big spot lamps I've got in the garage :D

Sure to find other bits wrong soon enough lol

Will put photos up once I've got 5 mins
 
Welcome to the world of hippo driving. Once you fixed that clink, there will be another along shortly. Mine just developed one on the front drivers side suspension. Can only hear it when driving down the rough track to our allotment.
 
Glad you got one, looks like a decent motor. If you hadn't found any faults, I'd have been worried someone had sold you a Rav or something with Landie badges - but glad its got some "character" to prove the Land Rover DNA.

The clunking might need a bit of welding if its the "cracked chassis" subframe mount, but likely as you say to be the diff mount. The other bits all sound minor - unless of course the front end has just been rebuilt which is why the lights are pointing in the wrong direction!
 
GrumpyGel said:
Glad you got one, looks like a decent motor. If you hadn't found any faults, I'd have been worried someone had sold you a Rav or something with Landie badges - but glad its got some "character" to prove the Land Rover DNA.
Click to expand...
GrumpyGel said:
The clunking might need a bit of welding if its the "cracked chassis" subframe mount, but likely as you say to be the diff mount. The other bits all sound minor - unless of course the front end has just been rebuilt which is why the lights are pointing in the wrong direction!
Click to expand...

I'd of found sumat even if it would of killed me sumat about an advert that says "no offers" that makes me want to offer a lot less than the asking price! forgot to mention the slight cam cover leak on driver side too so at least there's summat to keep me entertained

Hope its not the cracked chassis bit to much of a clunk to be a crack I think found if you're lazy and just dab the clutch whilst changing gear it does it but if you put clutch all way to floor it barely does or doesn't do it, off on holiday on saturday to Dorset so hoping to have good look tonight and get bits ordered first thing so they arrive and can be fitted asap

The main dipped beams are ok if slightly high so think its just wants adjusting, couldn't find any accident damage

Hoping to get a bit of wax oil underneath it too before I go away to sea side so Mrs wont be happy with me spending all week under car lol
 
Update

May have found culprit on clonking on the mot history

"diff support bush failed" but only as an advisory weirdly and disappeared off this year's test with no sign of a receipt for a new bush :confused:
 
Re head lights being high - check the head light levelling switch. Does it sit level on the driveway?
 
htr said:
Re head lights being high - check the head light levelling switch. Does it sit level on the driveway?
Click to expand...

Had a fiddle around with the switch last night put it on the on zero and main beam is up in trees but dip is just about acceptable put it on highest setting and main is about right but dip is no more than a cars length ahead of you, wasn't sat on drive at time but road was level enough for a guestimate
 
Ok so just how much should a VCU nip up on full lock?

I know some tightness is expected due to design but want to be sure, not currently able to do the 1WUT as no tools other than a jack as tools are at the in laws

More of a sensation of brake being applied going forward than reverse if i'm honest and can do both directions just using just idle to pull the car around, VCU gets lukewarm according to my hand 'ometer after a 40 mile drive
 
The engine on tickover and no throttle should be able to power the car on full lock on both forward and reverse. If it stalls I would call that a VCU emergency.

The Freelander is close to regulation height in some multi story car parks. You can get in with the aerial pinging away on the ceiling but once you have entered your parking space you can't reverse out without removing it or ripping it off. Don't ask me how much I paid for a leatherman type tool to remove a seized aerial in a small town when I learned this lesson the hard way. A new aerial from the scrappy would have been 40 times cheaper...
 
Watch out for sticky brakes too though, I thought mine was really bad but turned out it was just bad. stuck brake caliber causing the issue.
 
Bandit127 said:
The engine on tickover and no throttle should be able to power the car on full lock on both forward and reverse. If it stalls I would call that a VCU emergency.

The Freelander is close to regulation height in some multi story car parks. You can get in with the aerial pinging away on the ceiling but once you have entered your parking space you can't reverse out without removing it or ripping it off. Don't ask me how much I paid for a leatherman type tool to remove a seized aerial in a small town when I learned this lesson the hard way. A new aerial from the scrappy would have been 40 times cheaper...
Click to expand...
that's put my mind at rest a bit was beginning to worry if be coming home from holiday on back of a Aa truck!!


Alibro said:
Watch out for sticky brakes too though, I thought mine was really bad but turned out it was just bad. stuck brake caliber causing the issue.
Click to expand...
hadn't thought of that good shout just snatching time here and there to get bits done before holiday completel the wrong time to buy a new car lol wanted to do the diff bush and engine breather before we go but at the mercy of the post man sadly


She's had a good coat of wax oil tonight underneath couple of minor areas that needed a good scrub down first but all sorted now, a good coat of the stuff prior to seaside hols and Dorset steam fair :)
 
Oooo! Dorset Steam Fair! It's been years since I last went to that! One of my great uncles used to go to that regularly in an ancient Albion! That's the weekend after next isn't it? :D
 
LUKBENPHI said:
Ok so just how much should a VCU nip up on full lock?

I know some tightness is expected due to design but want to be sure, not currently able to do the 1WUT as no tools other than a jack as tools are at the in laws

More of a sensation of brake being applied going forward than reverse if i'm honest and can do both directions just using just idle to pull the car around, VCU gets lukewarm according to my hand 'ometer after a 40 mile drive
Click to expand...
Hi mate,
Once you rule out stick brakes or binding - easy enough to do - then
Any nip on full lock indicates it needs replacing - basically there should not be any. at all. The OWUT is unlikely to show anything out of order but by all means do it.
There shouldn't be any tightness due to design.
It is the first clue that the vcu is at end of serviceable life. with only a mild tightness on full lock it is only putting more strain on the drive train but should not cause any major issues. It still needs replacing as soon as is practicable - it is not URGENT, but needs doing.
The specialist advice is here - the binding is far more imformative than thr OWUT - the OWUP may actually show excessive time taken - however - if it is in a realtive normal range the tightness on lock by far over-rides any OWUT results.
These are the experts.
http://www.bellengineering.co.uk/5.html

I would never personally bother with the OWUT as the lock test is far far easier to do and far more informative - you rapidly begin to subconsciously check it every time you use full lock.
Hope that helps and enjoy it !. seems like a nice find - Nice one.
:)
Joe
 
Joe_H said:
Hi mate,
Once you rule out stick brakes or binding - easy enough to do - then
Any nip on full lock indicates it needs replacing - basically there should not be any. at all. The OWUT is unlikely to show anything out of order but by all means do it.
There shouldn't be any tightness due to design.
It is the first clue that the vcu is at end of serviceable life. with only a mild tightness on full lock it is only putting more strain on the drive train but should not cause any major issues. It still needs replacing as soon as is practicable - it is not URGENT, but needs doing.
The specialist advice is here - the binding is far more imformative than thr OWUT - the OWUP may actually show excessive time taken - however - if it is in a realtive normal range the tightness on lock by far over-rides any OWUT results.
These are the experts.
http://www.bellengineering.co.uk/5.html

I would never personally bother with the OWUT as the lock test is far far easier to do and far more informative - you rapidly begin to subconsciously check it every time you use full lock.
Hope that helps and enjoy it !. seems like a nice find - Nice one.
:)
Joe
Click to expand...

Thanks Joe, nip up was probably the wrong choice of words but there is a slight brake effect when on full lock going forward and less so in reverse, barely any in reverse if I'm honest, but neither is nothing that idle speed in first and reverse can't overcome and to be honest I'm avoiding using full lock wherever possible to prevent any additional overstraining of it before I can replace it, it's being treated with kid gloves due to diff support bush having failed, I doubt it's been changed as it looks the same colour as the rest of the prop shaft and at 128k it must be on its way out, once Im back from dorset next week it be phoning Bell to book in but you've put my mind at rest over the urgency of it :)

Even though I wont be doing same mileage next week in dorset ( I do a 500 mile a week commute) I'm taking the tools to whip the prop off with me on holiday just in case!! so far in its made halfway though its weekly commute without missing a beat but I'm not tempting fate!

Added bonus ordered a single new front diff bush the other day of ebay and today all 3 mounts have arrived so i've had £30 of bits for £10!! Bearmach too :D:D
 
LUKBENPHI said:
Thanks Joe, nip up was probably the wrong choice of words but there is a slight brake effect when on full lock going forward and less so in reverse, barely any in reverse if I'm honest, but neither is nothing that idle speed in first and reverse can't overcome and to be honest I'm avoiding using full lock wherever possible to prevent any additional overstraining of it before I can replace it, it's being treated with kid gloves due to diff support bush having failed, I doubt it's been changed as it looks the same colour as the rest of the prop shaft and at 128k it must be on its way out, once Im back from dorset next week it be phoning Bell to book in but you've put my mind at rest over the urgency of it :)

Even though I wont be doing same mileage next week in dorset ( I do a 500 mile a week commute) I'm taking the tools to whip the prop off with me on holiday just in case!! so far in its made halfway though its weekly commute without missing a beat but I'm not tempting fate!

Added bonus ordered a single new front diff bush the other day of ebay and today all 3 mounts have arrived so i've had £30 of bits for £10!! Bearmach too :D:D
Click to expand...
Hi mate, :)
Excellent stuff, I think you are going down the absolute best path. :) - nice one.
I do not believe anything is urgent, however, it does need replacing IMO but definitely talk to BELL. they are the best in the world re - VCU recon. They do an absolutely superb job for 275 quid inc vat with VCU bearing fitted.
I look at it in the same way I would look at changing a cam-belt on a differing make / Model that uses it - just one of those thing you need to do especially if you have no real history. ANY vehicle I buy has a new cam-belt fitted as a matter of course unless I have 100% proof that it has had one - even then - unless I have the receipt detailing the ACUTUAL make of parts I WILL still change it - too many cheap Chinese crap bearing and belts (mainly the bearings) - along with all fluids changed including brake fluid - that is one that many overlook.
On the Freelander the ABS does so much it is absolutely VITAL to change the brake fluid every two years regardless of mileage.
The abs module has up to 3 valves / solenoids per channel. Each are massively robust. The ABS unit controls all the Traction control, the ABS itself and the HDC. It is the workhorse mechanical unit. The worst thing one can do is leave hygroscopic brake fluid in there (it basically means it absorbs water! ) this can lead to corrosion and seal failure and crappy performance / expensive repairs.
Many times the HDC sounds like a sack of hammers when in operation, this is clear indication that the fluid is knackered.
You must (any owner must) change the brake fluid as a matter of normal routine servicing on a Freelander. The same applies to the VCU on any hint of issues. Mild symptoms are the warning that you need to plan ahead and get things going.
No worries. Enjoy.
Joe:)
 
Last edited:
Joe_H said:
Hi mate, :)
Excellent stuff, I think you are going down the absolute best path. :) - nice one.
I do not believe anything is urgent, however, it does need replacing IMO but definitely talk to BELL. they are the best in the world re - VCU recon. They do an absolutely superb job for 275 quid inc vat with VCU bearing fitted.
I look at it in the same way I would look at changing a cam-belt on a differing make / Model that uses it - just one of those thing you need to do especially if you have no real history. ANY vehicle I buy has a new cam-belt fitted as a matter of course unless I have 100% proof that it has had one - even then - unless I have the receipt detailing the ACUTUAL make of parts I WILL still change it - too many cheap Chinese crap bearing and belts (mainly the bearings) - along with all fluids changed including brake fluid - that is one that many overlook.
On the Freelander the ABS does so much it is absolutely VITAL to change the brake fluid every two years regardless of mileage.
The abs module has up to 3 valves / solenoids per channel. Each are massively robust. The ABS unit controls all the Traction control, the ABS itself and the HDC. It is the workhorse mechanical unit. The worst thing one can do is leave hygroscopic brake fluid in there (it basically means it absorbs water! ) this can lead to corrosion and seal failure and crappy performance / expensive repairs.
Many times the HDC sounds like a sack of hammers when in operation, this is clear indication that the fluid is knackered.
You must (any owner must) change the brake fluid as a matter of normal routine servicing on a Freelander. The same applies to the VCU on any hint of issues. Mild symptoms are the warning that you need to plan ahead and get things going.
No worries. Enjoy.
Joe:)
Click to expand...

Cant go wrong at £275 !! is that the drive in drive out price or just for vcu and bearings?

Ive just rang them on the off chance annoyingly due to my and their holidays its going to be 3 weeks before I can get in to see them
 
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