Ash2304 said:
Thanks for the replies. May sound ridiculous but seeing as I’m not as mechanically minded as I am paint and body, what’s the best way to check the thermostat? If it’s stuck open then the hoses on the radiator will get progressively warm? Or is it a case of take it out and make sure it’s not stuck and it’s as simple as that?

Cheers
Click to expand...

The best way is to spend 7 quid on a new one, there are two types, winter and summer, from memory its 70 odd degrees and 82 or something like that, its up to you which one you fit, I go with winter ones as I don't really do any driving that gets my engine hot in the summer. Don't buy brit part, bearmacvh or any of that rubbish, try land rover for genuine or buy OEM from a motor factors, this is an important part believe it or not, don't cheap out on it.

You will be taking the housing apart anyway to test the old one, just fit a new one and save your self some pain.

Flush out the cooling system, Google back flushing, you may well be able to do this with the stat housing apart, back flush out the heater matrix, when the system is drained down remove the fan belt and check the water pump for play or any strange noises by hand spinning it.
 
nobber said:
Did you really rebuild a land rover?
R.e the speedo cable, did you fit it? You can go under the bonnet, on the bulkhead under the windscreen , off side , push the speedo cable through the rubber grommet or remove the grommet a little until you get the cable secured into the speedo clock. There is a twist lock on the cable that locks onto the back of the speedo clock.
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When I bought it, it had no working clocks or electrics but a good starting base. So It’s been stripped of all bodywork minus the tub, repainted and put back together, first time I’ve ever done a Land Rover so it’s all learning. Yeah I’ve had the clocks in and out many times, the grey plastic twist lock is on and secured.
 
nobber said:
The best way is to spend 7 quid on a new one, there are two types, winter and summer, from memory its 70 odd degrees and 82 or something like that, its up to you which one you fit, I go with winter ones as I don't really do any driving that gets my engine hot in the summer. Don't buy brit part, bearmacvh or any of that rubbish, try land rover for genuine or buy OEM from a motor factors, this is an important part believe it or not, don't cheap out on it.

You will be taking the housing apart anyway to test the old one, just fit a new one and save your self some pain.

Flush out the cooling system, Google back flushing, you may well be able to do this with the stat housing apart, back flush out the heater matrix, when the system is drained down remove the fan belt and check the water pump for play or any strange noises by hand spinning it.
Click to expand...

Thanks, it’s on the list of to do’s, I’ll try and get myself a genuine thermostat and then get it all done.

Cheers
 
Ash2304 said:
When I bought it, it had no working clocks or electrics but a good starting base. So It’s been stripped of all bodywork minus the tub, repainted and put back together, first time I’ve ever done a Land Rover so it’s all learning. Yeah I’ve had the clocks in and out many times, the grey plastic twist lock is on and secured.
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you have two things to check then, if the cable hasnt snapped internally, the speedo drive on the gearbox or the clock itself is at fault, easy to check the clock, assemble clock and cable on the bench and turn the cable, use a very slow drill if you have to, if nothing happens its the clock, if it works its the gearbox drive, make sure to check both ends of the cable isnt worn to the point where its slipping, but even the the speedo needle dhould twitch when your driving it.
 
Why are genuine stats hard to find? Ebay, Amazon, they arnt hard to find at all, cross reference the part number, lots of sites out there for cross referencing part numbers, I will put ip a linky when I get to the Pc, do you know the part number for the stat?
 
My speedo stop working and I went through changing the cable only to find the internal cogs had somehow become jammed. Hopefully it isn't this. To isolate the issue I drove with the facia flopping forward whist watching if the internal cable was spinning. Not easy in a confined space but ensure you fully lock in the cable to the back of the speedo otherwise it will vibrate off, don't be afraid to pull the clocks forward another inch or so to enable access.
 
Here we go , this is the 88 degree stat, lots to choose from, but Genuine is around 12 quid so its up to you, anyhow, lots of manufacturers numbers here to start from.

https://www.autocity.eu/en/article/1/1/10006262/quinton-hazell-qth117-thermostat-coolant

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts...ucZJKwlbmCCphuWbnA-1G44F_PuNvRkhoC8DcQAvD_BwE

The massive difference here in price is for a reason, just think, materials, manufacturing, packaging, labour, logistics, tax, then the people selling them has to make a profit, Id say quality really suffers to make them this cheap.

http://www.totalparts.co.uk/search/for/err2803/
 
This is a site I use to cross reference part numbers, its pretty good but like anything else a bit of research is required, but its a good place to start, things like water pumps etc you would be surprised.

http://www.kakapart.com/parts/land-rover-err2803.html

Its a part of yoyopart, if you type any part number into google the follow it with yoyopart it will bring you to yoyoparts page.
 
Speedo is now working. I took it off at both ends, made sure that it wasn’t broken somewhere inbetween and started again with it. The issue was that about half an inch of the metal centre part had come out of the sleeve at the Speedo end. I noticed this before but couldn’t get enough slack up behind the Speedo, I didn’t think it would effect it so drastically, but it meant that it wasn’t sat in the hole at the other end. With a bit of messing and pulling to free up some of the cable it’s working now.

Thanks for the links, I’ll have a look through and sort the part I need. It’s a defender 200tdi.

The gearbox noise is slightly concerning me. It’s a bit hit and miss whilst driving. With the transfer box in neutral and it in gear you can hear it ever so slightly. When driving, if you press the clutch it stops completely. My box does have a leak and if the oil has got low will it cause an intermittent quiet grinding? I planned on changing all oils anyway within the next week or so, but I never had this noise a few week back when I test drove it.

Ash
 
Did you seperate the transfer box from the gear box? Did you do anything to the boxes during the rebuild?
 
If the gearbox is in gear and the tranny out of gear does the noise change if you put pressure on the gear stick?
 
nobber said:
Did you seperate the transfer box from the gear box? Have you tried slackening off the transmission brake? Did you do anything to the boxes during the rebuild?
Click to expand...

Nothing engine or gearbox wise has been touched at all. That’s what makes me wonder if a lack of oil has anything to do with it as it’s the only thing that would of changed. I didn’t have this noise say 4/6 weeks ago when I took it for a test drive.

The gearbox in neutral creates no noise.

The transfer box in neutral and gearbox in gear, creates a noise but not as much as under load.

Transfer box in gear and going through the gears results in the noise, about 75% of the time when driving. Noise disappears when clutch is pressed.

Edit- I’m unsure if the noise changes with pressure on the stick with the transfer box in neutral. When driving, pressure on either stick made no difference.

Ash
 
nobber said:
Chuck some fresh oil in it, where is it leaking from?
Click to expand...

I’m not 100% sure. There’s definitely oil leaking from the back of the transfer box from where the rectangle gasket would be, looks like some of the liquid gasket has been used in the future. There’s oil on the drain plugs but I don’t know whether it’s ran down to them. I’ll get the relevant gasket kits and change what I can in situ
 
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