Ash2304 · Dec 28, 2017

So after my recent rebuild I’ve managed to get her out on the road for a few miles to see if there’s any problems.

1. The temperature gauge doesn’t seem to be working, the heaters get sort of warm compared to on start up. I’ve put an earth on the wire at the temperature sender and the gauge does move, so is it a new sender that’s needed?

2. Speedo doesn’t work. I’ve no idea why, it’s in the back of the clocks properly, but when fitting I have to have the clocks pulled far enough forward to get my hand in which means the metal part of the cable comes out of the black plastic sleeve by some distance, so when I push the clocks in I’ve no idea how much of it Is still exposed, could this be the issue? Or is it a new cable job?

3. When driving there’s almost an ever so slight grinding noise coming from the gearbox/transfer box at different times. It’s like the of noise that you get when you don’t quiet get it into reverse and lift your clutch up but a lot quieter. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance
Ash

dag019 · Dec 28, 2017

Ash2304 said:
1. The temperature gauge doesn’t seem to be working, the heaters get sort of warm compared to on start up. I’ve put an earth on the wire at the temperature sender and the gauge does move, so is it a new sender that’s needed?

Is the 200tdi the original engine? If it is not the gauge and the sender need to match for the gauge to work correctly. If they already are matched then a new sender might be needed. The heater is not a great gauge for how warm the engine is due to the well known issues with trying to get any heat out it. if the radiator is warm there will be enough heat to move the gauge so all that is left is the sender

dag019 · Dec 28, 2017

Ash2304 said:
2. Speedo doesn’t work. I’ve no idea why, it’s in the back of the clocks properly, but when fitting I have to have the clocks pulled far enough forward to get my hand in which means the metal part of the cable comes out of the black plastic sleeve by some distance, so when I push the clocks in I’ve no idea how much of it Is still exposed, could this be the issue? Or is it a new cable job?

It may be worth loosening the dash enough to get the cable to pock out on top/side and then go for a drive. You should be able to see the end of the cable spinning. If you can the issue is with either the speedo or the fitments into the speedo. If you cannot see it turning the problem is at the other end of the cable with the connection into the transfer case and may need a new cable or the speedo drive adjusting.
there should be enough length on the cable to for it to pull through the bulkhead enough for easy fitting try pulling the clocks far enough forward to get your hand in and then feeding the cable though the bulkhead from the engine bay side to get the length needed. Then once fitted feed it back through the bulkhead from the clock side.

Ash2304 · Dec 28, 2017

dag019 said:
Is the 200tdi the original engine? If it is not the gauge and the sender need to match for the gauge to work correctly. If they already are matched then a new sender might be needed. The heater is not a great gauge for how warm the engine is due to the well known issues with trying to get any heat out it. if the radiator is warm there will be enough heat to move the gauge so all that is left is the sender

Hi, no it’s a 1987 90, the 200tdi was already fit when I bought it. I’ve no idea whether or not they changed the gauge at the time. Why would the gauge have to match the sender? Doesn’t it just work on like a variable earth as the temperature increases?

dag019 · Dec 28, 2017

Ash2304 said:
3. When driving there’s almost an ever so slight grinding noise coming from the gearbox/transfer box at different times. It’s like the of noise that you get when you don’t quiet get it into reverse and lift your clutch up but a lot quieter. Any ideas?

Although I do not recognise those symptoms the first place to start with drive-line noises like that are the propshaft uj's as they are a very common failure point and can range from a high pitched chirping to a dull rumble and vibration. Check them for any play and re-grease them to see if that makes any difference.

dag019 · Dec 28, 2017

Ash2304 said:
Hi, no it’s a 1987 90, the 200tdi was already fit when I bought it. I’ve no idea whether or not they changed the gauge at the time. Why would the gauge have to match the sender? Doesn’t it just work on like a variable earth as the temperature increases?

It does work like that but the temperature range and therefore the resistor range are different for different engines. If it is the original gauge you would need a special sender to match the 200tdi temperature range with the old gauge resistance range. You can get from steve parker (I have one on my conversion). If it is the correct 200tdi gauge then you can fit a standard 200tdi sender.

Ash2304 · Dec 28, 2017

dag019 said:
It does work like that but the temperature range and therefore the resistor range are different for different engines. If it is the original gauge you would need a special sender to match the 200tdi temperature range with the old gauge resistance range. You can get from steve parker (I have one on my conversion). If it is the correct 200tdi gauge then you can fit a standard 200tdi sender.

Thanks for all the replies. I’ll have a mess with it all when I get chance.

And is there a way to tell which gauge I have?

dag019 · Dec 28, 2017

Ash2304 said:
Thanks for all the replies. I’ll have a mess with it all when I get chance.

And is there a way to tell which gauge I have?

Land rover did change the gauge design but I do not know when that was. The older ones have a solid white section with an orange end where as the newer style have a black with white dash section and an orange end. (below).

Has the temperature sender gauge ever worked properly for you and does it match in style to the other gauges? There is probabaly a way of measuring it it with a mulitmeter and resistors but I do not know how. A new standard sender is very cheap so may be worth trying that first. From memory they read very high so it always looks like you are over heating. There were lots of threads about it when I was looking into it. I will try and find the one i started when i was having problems.

Ash2304 · Dec 28, 2017

dag019 said:
Land rover did change the gauge design but I do not know when that was. The older ones have a solid white section with an orange end where as the newer style have a black with white dash section and an orange end. (below).

View attachment 137822

Has the temperature sender gauge ever worked properly for you and does it match in style to the other gauges? There is probabaly a way of measuring it it with a mulitmeter and resistors but I do not know how. A new standard sender is very cheap so may be worth trying that first. From memory they read very high so it always looks like you are over heating. There were lots of threads about it when I was looking into it. I will try and find the one i started when i was having problems.

Mines the older style gauge, they all match, the fuel gauge works fine after I replace the sender. When I bought it none of the electrics worked so I’m pretty sure the temperature gauge didn’t work. Yeah a new sender is about £8 so I might start with that and flush all the coolant at the same time.

dag019 · Dec 28, 2017

The steve parker senders are more than that (link) but they do mean the temperature gauge works as it should. If the gauges match and nothing was working when you bought it I would think it is a fairly safe assumption that it is the original. A quick forum search or google will give more information as it is a long time since I did it. But it is a very common problem with the engine conversions so lots of information out there.

frog hopper · Dec 28, 2017

Just to add a bit of confusion my 1991 200Tdi 90 has a temp gauge which has the large white segment of the l/h and the final red segment of the r/h. As far as I know it is all original.

Ash2304 · Dec 28, 2017

I’ll see how I get on with this sender I’ve ordered and if that doesn’t work then I’ll start looking into others

bluedog333 · Dec 28, 2017

Also check that the thermostat isn’t stuck open.

Ash2304 · Dec 28, 2017

bluedog333 said:
Also check that the thermostat isn’t stuck open.

Is it worth just replacing as they’re not expensive?

bluedog333 · Dec 28, 2017

Ash2304 said:
Is it worth just replacing as they’re not expensive?

If it works properly I’d be tempted to leave it. If replacing, try and get a Waxstat brand one - though these are getting harder to source. Non-OEM/genuine tend to be very hit-and-miss!

dag019 · Dec 29, 2017

Ash2304 said:
Is it worth just replacing as they’re not expensive?

bluedog333 said:
If it works properly I’d be tempted to leave it. If replacing, try and get a Waxstat brand one - though these are getting harder to source. Non-OEM/genuine tend to be very hit-and-miss!

I would second that, will take a few attempts to get a working one if you just buy generic. If there is nothing wrong with yours keep it!

Ash2304 · Jan 1, 2018

Thanks for the replies. May sound ridiculous but seeing as I’m not as mechanically minded as I am paint and body, what’s the best way to check the thermostat? If it’s stuck open then the hoses on the radiator will get progressively warm? Or is it a case of take it out and make sure it’s not stuck and it’s as simple as that?

Cheers

dag019 · Jan 2, 2018

Take it out and assuming it is closed (not stuck open) put it in the kettle/pan of water on the stove with a thermometer and check a) if it opens and b) at what temperature.

(to remove it all you have to do it remove the three bolts form the housing and the top will come off revealing the thermostat. Best to replace the gasket when re-fitting, but you can get away with re-using the old one with some grease or some instant gasket if only a temporary solution)

Ash2304 · Jan 2, 2018

dag019 said:
Take it out and assuming it is closed (not stuck open) put it in the kettle/pan of water on the stove with a thermometer and check a) if it opens and b) at what temperature.

(to remove it all you have to do it remove the three bolts form the housing and the top will come off revealing the thermostat. Best to replace the gasket when re-fitting, but you can get away with re-using the old one with some grease or some instant gasket if only a temporary solution)

Thanks! Will try and have a look at it this week

nobber · Jan 2, 2018

Did you really rebuild a land rover?
R.e the speedo cable, did you fit it? You can go under the bonnet, on the bulkhead under the windscreen , off side , push the speedo cable through the rubber grommet or remove the grommet a little until you get the cable secured into the speedo clock. There is a twist lock on the cable that locks onto the back of the speedo clock.

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Similar threads