hi everyone.

at some point in the next 6 months or so im planning on sticking either a 200 or 300tdi in my landy. However i am out of work at the moment due to an injury so i dont really know when it will be.

i have a couple of problems with the current engine which i am not inclined to spend money fixing unless absolutely necessary.

Firstly, although i cannot see a leak anywhere in the system, i am contsantly having to top up the water coolant, about once a week the expansion tank is all but empty. This doent really bother me, but what with the cold weather coming, im gona have to start pouiring loads of antifreeze in there as well, so do i need to hit this one on the head and get it fixed?

Second question, is the alternator seems to be only just be pushing out enough to keep the battery level, battery warning light is constantly on, and recently i had a flat battery and had to bump start, and it took about an hour of the engine running to get just enough juice into the battery to restart it, but only just. I put an ammeter over the battery whilst the engine was running and it was reading just over 12V, ive been told it should be about 14V?

If i do have to replace the alternator, is it going to be worth going for an upgraded one, if it would fit the tdi engine i am planning on putting on? I only ask because somewhere down the pipeline i want to fit some lights and a winch.

cheers

Have yer tried radweld.
I reckon the alternator diodes is knackered, some reckon they are mendable but I ant tried.
Can I have the injun when you replace it.

yeh possibly, il sell it if i can but otherwise dont see why not. what u want it for?

does radweld work well then?

Rad welds the bees knees in the right circumstances like wot yours is.

I'd like it fer a future project. I wanna early light weight but want a diesel in it cos am poor an can't afford to run a petrol. An the 2.5 turbo is good enough fer me as a transplant, an seein as how dopey cun't even give his away they're cheap enough as well.

yeh, its not a bad one either really only done 130k and runs alright, just a bit noisy! Its not the best starter though, takes a few turns to fire up and i just fitted 4 new glowplugs.

takes a few turns to fire up and i just fitted 4 new glowplugs.

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Try disconnecting the engine loom to main wiring loom connector an cleaning the connector thingies and do the same to the alternator connector thing.

chris_mack said:

yeh possibly, il sell it if i can but otherwise dont see why not. what u want it for?

does radweld work well then?

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Only sometimes. Forte do a product called cooling system conditioner which shows up in uv light, there must be other dyes on the market for coolant leaks so give em a whirl. It's best to find the leak and then make a dicision on whether to clog your system with rad weld.

Riggaz

riggaz said:

Only sometimes. Forte do a product called cooling system conditioner which shows up in uv light, there must be other dyes on the market for coolant leaks so give em a whirl. It's best to find the leak and then make a dicision on whether to clog your system with rad weld.

Riggaz

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HOLY BLOODY SMOKE!

He's got another snake oil for radiators now!


By the way, someone said they checked the battery with an ammeter and got a voltage reading. That is a good trick.
I usually use a voltage meter to measure volts, and an ammeter to measure amps.

My guess is his alternator needs new brushes. It will JUST make voltage as long as there's no load on it. Typical symptom of slip-ring brushes on the way out.

CharlesY

CharlesY said:

HOLY BLOODY SMOKE!

He's got another snake oil for radiators now!
CharlesY

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Fook knows what he'll think about my patented super fookoff multiple use leak detector. dylute washingup liquid.

CharlesY said:

HOLY BLOODY SMOKE!

He's got another snake oil for radiators now!


By the way, someone said they checked the battery with an ammeter and got a voltage reading. That is a good trick.
I usually use a voltage meter to measure volts, and an ammeter to measure amps.

My guess is his alternator needs new brushes. It will JUST make voltage as long as there's no load on it. Typical symptom of slip-ring brushes on the way out.

CharlesY

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my mind was elsewhere whilst i was typing that, i meant voltmeter .

so can i simply get new brushes for the alternator, dont need to replace the whole unit? is it easy to work on?

riggaz said:

Only sometimes. Forte do a product called cooling system conditioner which shows up in uv light, there must be other dyes on the market for coolant leaks so give em a whirl. It's best to find the leak and then make a dicision on whether to clog your system with rad weld.

Riggaz

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nice one. the other thing about the leak is i have a hunch that the coolant is leaking over time, but the rate at which its leaking isnt related to how much the vehicle is being used.

i say this because for the last 3 months i have had a broken leg, and the landy was in a field on my cousins farm, only being driven by my little cousin once a week or so. yet despite the fact it was hardly being used, he still had to top up the water level a few times.

Sounds like my 110 2.5TD injun too.
Good idea with the radweld. Will get some forthwith and stick in in the watering hole.

The alternator on mine seems to have gone too, but I have no engine electrical light on at any point. So either the wiring to the alternator has broken somewhere or the regulator/rectumfryer/brushes have failed.

I suppose I should test the wiring first by continuity checking the alternator and brushes and regulator/rectumfryer before I order up a repair kit or order a new complete alternator.
Did you know the alternator was also used in Mini's and you can get them cheaper from a mini supply shop than a Landy supplier.