Hi and Happy Christmas. I've had a pretty much trouble free time with my '97 P38 since I got it last May but the day before it snowed at the end of November I got the (seemingly obligatory) suspension hard fault. This was easily cured with the EAS cable and software, the fault having been 'RR signal incorrect'. Since then the fault recurred a couple of times but I haven't seen it for a while, however, when the truck is parked for anything more than a few hours the suspension lowers to 'access' level and more often than not it has difficulty charging the system...'steady' access light and flashing 'normal level' light. Further to this I removed the air filter from the compressor to see the ammount of air it is drawing and was dissapointed with the feeble suction offered to my finger when placed over the hole. How much suction should I be getting there?
SHOCK HORROR!!!!! I've just looked out at the truck which has been idling for over an hour I'm stunned to see that the suspension has risen, I've obviously just been impatient expecting the thing to be useable within 60 minutes of starting! Joking aside though, this indicates to me that the air pump piston seal is jiggered, is that a possibility? The only other thing is the temperature outside which hasn't managed to stagger above freezing for the past 3-4 weeks and has spent a lot of the time below -6. Will this have caused any problems for the air system other than making the seal brittle?
Although the P38 has been a pain in the *rse recently, it is without doubt, the 'prettiest' vehicle I've owned, (I'll post some pics when I can get it polished) but without the cuteness of my old series 2a. Hoping someone can relate to my current problems and give me a pointer or 2. Merry Crimbo again,

Andy

:5bparty:

Mine has been very similar in this cold snap; I run the engine with demist on to clear windows. Switch off when cleared (5-10mins) then leave it another 10mins. Start it up and up she comes like a good un!
Think it struggles purely cos of excess cold, the engine heat being enough to kick-start it!

Definatly a compressor problem. RR sensor problem maybe just a bad connection, pins need cleaning or sloppy linkage. Or a failing sensor, water contamination.

i have had a hell with my sensor on the back but i have found the fail

take the pluck apart an se if it is all green inside .

if it is try clean it and hope ....

if not start cutting the 3 weirs until you get some clean weir
sorry but that is the way

Thanks Fellas, I've used the P38 all afternoon without issue although it does still return to access level if sitting for a while but it returns to normal level within 5-10 secs of starting. Will the silicone compressor seal become more effective as it heats up? Anyway, the proof of the pudding will be when it has to sit overnight at work (nightshift, bummer) cos we're forecast another -11 degrees, its -7 already so I'll see what happens at 6am. Compressor overhaul and sensor plugs clean-up at the top of things-to-do list!

frankenbus said:

Thanks Fellas, I've used the P38 all afternoon without issue although it does still return to access level if sitting for a while but it returns to normal level within 5-10 secs of starting. Will the silicone compressor seal become more effective as it heats up? Anyway, the proof of the pudding will be when it has to sit overnight at work (nightshift, bummer) cos we're forecast another -11 degrees, its -7 already so I'll see what happens at 6am. Compressor overhaul and sensor plugs clean-up at the top of things-to-do list!

Click to expand...

:welcome2:and Happy Christmas, a few have reported the cars being slow to rise in the old, luckily mine is OK. Two possibilities, worn pump and/or leaking air bags. There is a small possibility that there is condensate in the system which will also cause a problem. The seal will harden in the compressor in the cold so it may be less efficient until it warms up if it's a bit worn.

You've got two faults.
You've got a leak - that's why it's settling.
You've got a worn compressor and a leak - that's why it's taking so long to rise.
I asked a very similar question to yours a few weeks ago and the consensus seemed to be that worn piston seals are worse in cold weather and the replacements bought from Holland were worse than the originals.
Don't wait - it won't get better on it's own.
O.K. maybe you don't fancy getting underneath to find the leak in this weather but get a new seal and barrel into your compressor as soon as possible. Just don't buy a dutch one!

dogsbody said:

You've got two faults.
You've got a leak - that's why it's settling.
You've got a worn compressor and a leak - that's why it's taking so long to rise.
I asked a very similar question to yours a few weeks ago and the consensus seemed to be that worn piston seals are worse in cold weather and the replacements bought from Holland were worse than the originals.
Don't wait - it won't get better on it's own.
O.K. maybe you don't fancy getting underneath to find the leak in this weather but get a new seal and barrel into your compressor as soon as possible. Just don't buy a dutch one!

Click to expand...

Thanks fer that. Will the liner definitely need replacing or does that depend on the ammount of wear, scoring or grooves in the inside. Whatever, I won't be using the Dutch ones after the hassle that some of the guys on this forum have had with them. I'll need the compressor to be putting out the proper pressure to be able to chase the air leak effectively. Reckon the leak is from the only airbag that wasn't changed by the previous owner, he said it would need done sooner rather than later, I just can't remember whch one it was.
The Rangey is the least of my worries at the moment, I put our fresh turkey in the fridge that I use for beer in the garage but failed to reduce the setting with the result that said bloody turkey is now frozen.....How popular am I? Ham salad for dinner methinks! These thing are sent to try us (as, apparently are P38's), you've gotta laugh.

Merry Christmas everyone!

:lol:

To add and clarify if your EAS lights dont settle to the level its flashing at within 30 seconds from a (warm) start you will need to order a teflon ring. Its a really easy to do and dont be put off, if your EAS block O rings and valves are fine you will not need to depressurize the system but if the block has suffered extreme temps which the uk has you may well do good to order all the O rings ETC for that to. Easy jobs if you stick with a methodical approach.

I might add if you order the teflon ring, get the liner to.