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Gmw76

New Member
Hi could anyone help with info on a 54 plate 1.8 Freelander parking aid. I could use the tow bar I know :D but get frustrated when things aren't just right. There does not appear to be any info in the Haynes or Rave other than Haynes says fuse 24 which checks out ok. Does anyone know where the components are located?

The switch red light does not appear to come on in any state. Also the switch has little feedback when pressed but maybe it isn't a latching type, can't remember. Also does anyone know how to get the switch out or where any control box is to start my testing?

Fault may have coincided with recent trip to garage for leaking inlet manifold but I can't really figure out a connection with the work such that it woul leave that fault.

Thanks for any help
Mark:)
 
If you can pop the switch out you could connect the 2 wires together and see if it then works. This would rule the switch out.
 
Yep that is part of my plan but this type of switch is not mentioned in any of the literature so not sure if it pops out from the front or back or what.

I will try and get it out and pop a test meter on it.

Mark
 
Well just a heads up for anyone else with similar symptoms. Fuse checked out ok but the inquisitive side of my looked for the reverse lights. Not on ! Tried hill decent switch in reverse to find flashing light. Mmmm me thinks. Now suspect reverse switch or cabling. I think there are two bullet connectors adjacent the work I have just had done on the inlet manifold so the wires could have been pulled or yanked from the switch. Not sure how much oil I would loose from replacing the switch though. Anyone know?

Will short out the connectors to prove the circuit before tackling switch.

Any experience of doing this job welcome.

Mark
 
Did some testing today and it is the reverse switch as shorting out fixed it.

Can anyone tell me how much gearbox oil I would loose when replacing switch?

Mark
 
I thought it was but not sure. Manuals talk of plugging the hole and topping up oil via level plug.

Has anyone done this job?

Thanks

Mark
 
if the switch is easy to get to, should be able to whip it out and the new one in pretty swift to minimise and loss.

maybe buy the new one and see how long the thread is etc,

if you do it with everything cold, the oil should be fairly viscous anyway so won't flow that fast. (some hope)

alternatively, this could all go badly wrong....
 
Yep

Thanks for that. It is really hard to see from Haynes or Rave the relative position of the level plug v the reverse switch. Maybe putting it up on ramps would also help as level plug I think is toward the back of the box whilst switch is at the front.

Have never taken under tray off before so I have that joy as well.

Mark
 
Sounds like a ideal time to do a gearbox oil change at the same time as you will lose some oil as it's at the bottom of the gearbox casing, how much depends on how quick you are swapping them over.
 
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