ive just had the complete clutch kit replaced and the mechanic said that the oil in the transfer box had gone metalic and a chunk of metal was in it too(when draining). when i accelerate there is a sound similar to that of when you let a bicycle wheel -spokes spin against a stick. what do the eggheads think? please assist.
Darmain
Well-Known Member
Ohhhh heck. This is not good news. The transfer box, or in Freelander talk, the Intermediate Reduction Drive (IRD) is well known to be a weak component in the Freelander design. If you have a search around this site you will find many stories regarding the failure of the IRD. If yours is suffering breakdown as the metallic oil suggests, plus the noise, then it is only a matter of time before it fails. The big problem is you can't seem to get parts for the unit, it having to be completely replaced.
The normal reason for the IRD to fail is due to the viscous coupling unit on the propshaft siezing. This cause the classic transmission wind up, introducing so much stress in the transmission that something has got to give. On the Freelander 1 that thing is the IRD.
Its not going to be cheap I'm afraid. Sorry.
The normal reason for the IRD to fail is due to the viscous coupling unit on the propshaft siezing. This cause the classic transmission wind up, introducing so much stress in the transmission that something has got to give. On the Freelander 1 that thing is the IRD.
Its not going to be cheap I'm afraid. Sorry.
Darmain
Well-Known Member
One thing you could do if the money's a bit tight is to take the propshafts and the VC unit off the car completely so that it will run in two wheel drive mode only. This will take the strain off the failing IRD unit you can get it replaced. One word of warning. This is a popular fuel saving mod to FH1's that don't go off road very much, but it does mean the vehical has been modified in insurance eyes.
Darmain
Well-Known Member
Another idea is to check the VCU is not siezed. There are two way to do this.
a) get access to the under side of the car and draw a line on each propshaft, either side of the VC, so that they are in line with each other. Now drive the car down the street, stop and look at these lines. They should no longer be in line. If they are then the VC is seized.
b) Pull the car in first gear (Engine off) and release the handbrake. Lift one back wheel off the ground. Now try to turn that wheel. Its going to feel like the handbrake is still on so put your back into it. It shouls turn with a judder feeling as the VC gives in a slips. If you can not turn it no matter what then the VC isn't going to slip and that is the problem.
If the VC is knackered then it must be replaced with the IRD. Also it is worth checking the rear diff is okay as this can sometimes give up as well as the IRD.
Not good reading I know but I'm sure you will appreciate the information on what you may have in store and on which you can decide your next steps.
BTW I'm surprised your mechanic didn't tell you all this.
a) get access to the under side of the car and draw a line on each propshaft, either side of the VC, so that they are in line with each other. Now drive the car down the street, stop and look at these lines. They should no longer be in line. If they are then the VC is seized.
b) Pull the car in first gear (Engine off) and release the handbrake. Lift one back wheel off the ground. Now try to turn that wheel. Its going to feel like the handbrake is still on so put your back into it. It shouls turn with a judder feeling as the VC gives in a slips. If you can not turn it no matter what then the VC isn't going to slip and that is the problem.
If the VC is knackered then it must be replaced with the IRD. Also it is worth checking the rear diff is okay as this can sometimes give up as well as the IRD.
Not good reading I know but I'm sure you will appreciate the information on what you may have in store and on which you can decide your next steps.
BTW I'm surprised your mechanic didn't tell you all this.
Northern Irelander
Well-Known Member
Right first things first, did it make that noise before the clutch change? What engine?
you'll need to narrow down to where the noise is coming from, does it only happen when reving in neutral or does it happen when driven only, jack all wheels off the ground and rotate the front ones back and forward, in neutral and in gear.
Take it back to the numpty,
Just for the record all IRD oil goes metallica metallica within time
you'll need to narrow down to where the noise is coming from, does it only happen when reving in neutral or does it happen when driven only, jack all wheels off the ground and rotate the front ones back and forward, in neutral and in gear.
Take it back to the numpty,
Just for the record all IRD oil goes metallica metallica within time
Darmain
Well-Known Member
Surely if the oil is in this state it is so contaminated that it is serving better as a grinding paste than a lubricant. Sounds like it needs changing at least.
Northern Irelander
Well-Known Member
Not necessarily, the black is iron sulphide, from the bearings
There is no LR service plan for the oil, it was supposed to last 160k miles lmao, black as your boot within around 35k miles.
Like the metallica metallica album cover, IRD oil is jet
black
hi, thanks for the reply. The clicking noise was there at least 4 months before clutch change, the noise happens when im accelerating through the gears, or when in low revs, or say im doing 40mph in 3rd gear, and traffic slows me to 30mph, when i accelerate again(without changing up)it sounds like a load of ballbearings jumping in a tin can. also when the vehicle is slowing to a stop, (say 5mph) i hear a clicking getting slower, as though the wheel is catching something, but now i think about it, could this be the propshaft? i do have 20" wheels with 25mm profile on them, could this have thrown everything out? i wait your reply. cheers northern irelander
Darmain
Well-Known Member
Front, passenger side wheel. On the drive shaft there are two flexible couplings to allow the wheel hub to move with the suspension while the gearbox and IRD stay bolted to the car body. The one nearest the gearbox is called a constant velocity joint, or CV joint. It is a complex joint and uses linear ball bearings. I've had one do weird things that had me hunting for literally months. In the end we found it was this joint simply by replacing it.
What you need to do is to jack the passenger side front wheel off the ground and then rotate it by hand while feeling the vibrations in the wheel. You might want to get underneath and feel the coupling through the rubber gatter to see if anything feels or sounds wrong. It should rotate silent and smooth.
Hopefully this will save you a lot of messing about. I think this joint give more trouble than is realised.
Good luck.
Dave
What you need to do is to jack the passenger side front wheel off the ground and then rotate it by hand while feeling the vibrations in the wheel. You might want to get underneath and feel the coupling through the rubber gatter to see if anything feels or sounds wrong. It should rotate silent and smooth.
Hopefully this will save you a lot of messing about. I think this joint give more trouble than is realised.
Good luck.
Dave
Darmain
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the confidence. I hope it is well placed.
For your info the garage replace my entire drive shaft at a cost of £100 for parts and £120 for labour. The shaft was second hand but known to be good. If the shaft is stripped down and reconditioned then the labour cost will be higher.
Just an idea of the finances involved.
Let us know how you get on.
Cheers,
Dave
thanks for that, i jacked the freelander up so one front wheel was off the ground and tried to spin it, but no joy, it moved forward bout 2" ,which turned the prop 2" but heard the sound im trying to pinpoint (not fast clicking , but definatley that click)was coming from right at the front end of propshaft, where there is a rubber gator, theres also a plastic tie wrap around it(underneath rubber). ive put aline down the propshaft and drove, and they where not in line when stopped.
