J

jbarlow

New Member
Hi guys,

My 200tdi failed it's MOT on the following stuff:

1. Nearside front hockey stick bolt loose (suspension arm pin locking device not properly locked. I assume they're talking about the radius arm nuts not being tight so I need to get a new nyloc nut and stick it on - they quoted £25 for that.

2. Rear floor seat belt anchorage prescribed area excessively corroded - I guess this is a welding job, they want £90 for that - is that a reasonable price.

3. 2 sections of brake pipe excessively corroded - I saw some replacement brake pipe kits on beamends for £60, stainless steel, braided things - are these worth doing or should I just replace the knackard bits?

4. Wheel bearing rough - it was only done last year so I'll check it. Is this a fairly easy job? They want £100 for that.

5. Handbrake has no reserve travel ? Confused by this one - last years MOT made no mention of that and the handbrake hasn't changed - can the cable be adjusted? They quoted £50 for that.

6. wheel fouls hockey stick on full lock. That's just a stop bolt - been meaning to do that for over a year but keep forgetting - got past the last MOT like that. They quoted £50 to fix that!

In total they want £500 which I think is a rip-off and I'm pretty sure I can fix everything apart from the welding myself for about £50 or £100 if I get one of them brake kits.

Anybody got any insights on any of the above? Any advice greatfully received. Also what can I do if I think they are taking the ****? I'll probably take it somewhere else but then you've gotta pay out another £50 and they might find different things wrong!

Cheers.
 
they're taking the ****, just pulling figures out of the air and quoting you.

£50 to adjust the handbrake and £50 to fit a lock stop, yet they only want £90 to do the welding.

do it yourself or take it somewhere else for the work, you can buy a roll of brake pipe for a tenner and make the pipes yourself (you'll need a flairing tool)

Most garages will take on welding work, get a few quotes before you accept.
If you're in cardiff/newport area, I can do the welding for you.
 
yer braided pipes sound more like flexies than yer actual pipes so they wont solve yer problem... most garage will make yer pipes up to suit if you take the old one along ,or do as Mr. Dust says and buy yerself a length of pipe and a flaring kit
 
Yeah definately sounds like there taking the ****!
I try and take mine for MOT somewhere where they don't do the repairs, because worrid about them failing it just because they wan't to try and make a few bucks out of me with the repairs. i know it's a bit harsh to the good garages, but would rather not get ripped off and the money stay in my pocket instead of theres!!

I think mine passed when it rubbed on full lock.
 
Cheers for the replies. I'll fix it myself, I don't trust these guys one bit.

Thanks for the offer of welding clutchdust, I'm over in Bristol and I used to drive over to Newport every day a couple of years back but I'll see if I can get it done locally.

Will this do the job on the brake pipe?
Toolzone Double Brake Pipe Flaring Tool Kit only £15.99

or this?

Automotive Flaring Kit - Screwfix Direct, Everything for the Trade, Next Day!

Is copper brake pipe ok, what size do I need? Do I need a bending tool or will it bend round a broom handle without collapsing / breaking?
 
It looks like the rubbing thing is just another excuse to try and relieve me of my hard earned cash. Looks easy enough to fix though, and for a lot less than £50...£50 less in fact. Jesus, maybe I'm in the wrong business, it'd be great if I could "earn" £50 for turning a couple of bolts!
 
Just been checking things out...

1. Loose "hockey stick" - pretty sure this is total BS - there are 3 big nuts on each radius arm, all tight, no movement in any of it, and there is no difference between the left and right arm.

2. Rusty seat belt anchors. This looks like BS too - there is some corrosion at the front of the rear floor, but it's not within 12 inches of the seat belt mounts so that's ok isn't it? There is no corrosion on the wheel arches either where the rear seat belts attach.

3. Brake pipes look a bit dodgy in a couple of places so I'll have to fix them.

4. Wheel bearing rough - more BS - there's nothing wrong with it as far as I can tell, and it feels exactly the same as the other front wheel.

5. Handbrake - this does need adjusting but it looks like the adjusting nut is missing from the lever end of the cable.

6. fixed the wheel rubbing on the arm.
 
Yeah sounds like theyve been trying to make some money out of you.
Have you had dealings with them in the past?
I wonder if it might be worth taking it somewhere else, once you've done the other bits, that definately failed!

How did you cure the rubbing wheel?
 
Whereabouts in Bristol are you? I can recommend a really good 'local' garage for the MOT/any work you can't do, and a great LR specialist (tho obviously more expensive than the local place!).

Matt
 
JAC said:
Yeah sounds like theyve been trying to make some money out of you.
Have you had dealings with them in the past?
I wonder if it might be worth taking it somewhere else, once you've done the other bits, that definately failed!

How did you cure the rubbing wheel?
Click to expand...

Yeah that's my plan I'm never going back there. My girlfriend took her car there last year and I wasn't totally sure but it sounded plausable and it looked like they'd done what they said. But this is just ridiculous.

There is a stop bolt on each wheel that contacts the end of the axle on full lock, I just loosened the lock nut on the right hand wheel and unscrewed the bolt a bit so it hit sooner, and so not allowing left lock to turn so much.
 
jbarlow said:
Yeah that's my plan I'm never going back there. My girlfriend took her car there last year and I wasn't totally sure but it sounded plausable and it looked like they'd done what they said. But this is just ridiculous.

There is a stop bolt on each wheel that contacts the end of the axle on full lock, I just loosened the lock nut on the right hand wheel and unscrewed the bolt a bit so it hit sooner, and so not allowing left lock to turn so much.
Click to expand...


Ok, i'll have a look at that once i've got the other stuff sorted that i need to.
You know what it's like, you spend more time servicing them and repairing em, than actually driving the bluming things!! But wouldn't be without it!
 
Just had my MOT done again and it passed :D

It cost me about £5 (plus another £50 for the test) and about 30 minutes of my time. The first garage wanted £500 - they're just theives.

If I hadn't started doing my own servicing etc and reading about things on this site, I might have fallen for it a couple of years ago and just gave them the money like a total mug.

Makes you think how many people must get ripped off every day :mad:
 
Congrats!

Had a similar thing myself many years ago, a VW/Audi main dealer told me I needed to spend 1200 on my Audi to get it through the MOT - I asked them to MOT it whilst it was in for a service. I took it to a decent local garage for the MOT a few days later having done no work and they passed it straight away with just one advisory! Like you say, makes you wonder how many times they get away with ripping people off.

Matt
 
Yes, buy some new brake pipe and a decent flaring tool. - Practice on the lengths you need sticking out before flaring first to get the feel of it. You will use it again and again believe me if you're replacing brake cylinders etc.

Check out the back of some Haynes manuals for a run down of MOT points.

Find your local Government test station. -

MOT Cost Cutting: Slice the cost of repairs...

These are used by the councils, but by law have to be available to the public. They will not add extra work or rip you off. In Bristol this is - Sandy Park Rd , Brislington, Bristol.

Get quotes by phone for individual fail points, but really you should be able to do most yourself.
For safety items - brakes, belts fittings - always buy new, as a fail on a frayed seat belt will cost you more than a retest anyway. ANY deterioration in brake hoses will not be looked at favourably, so wipe the all metal ones with a rag and waxoyl before MOT time - flexi hose with clean water.

Check all lights and wipers for condition as these are obvious fails.

Basically do your own MOT as best you can, as finding a problem here won't cost much.
Good luck
 
My 300TDi failed the MOT this week. Wasnt the end of the world, a rear anti roll fitting and a rear brake pipe replacing. Cost was £150 including parts, labour and test and re test. I reckon not bad for an 11 year old motor.
 
Hey Matt,

I'm also in Bristol and use John Hathaway at Pilning ~ ex-Land Rover mechanic. Who do you use/recommend?
 
I have never used a large main dealer facility for repairs or MOT as they charge too much for too little, and fortunately there arent many jobs that i cannot do myself.
I always prefer to use a garage that allows you to watch the MOT taking place and is prepared to allow you to get under the ramp and inspect any areas that they say are faulty, this way they tend to get the message that you know what you are looking at (even if you dont) and also soon get the idea that you will be doing your own repairs so they wont be looking for jobs to do.
Even if you will want them to do the work dont tell them that until after the test has been done.
Works for me anyway!!!!!!!
Ed
 
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