doodle bug
Well-Known Member
Hellastony
Active Member
I think many have found that these are the best to use,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROV...370218&hash=item4675f6ee43:g:K1cAAMXQgJRQ-G~U
stainless is too soft. It also helps to open out the last two port stud holes to allow for a bit of movement, 10mm seems to be the norm.
Tony
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROV...370218&hash=item4675f6ee43:g:K1cAAMXQgJRQ-G~U
stainless is too soft. It also helps to open out the last two port stud holes to allow for a bit of movement, 10mm seems to be the norm.
Tony
Hellastony
Active Member
Repeated in error, cant seem to be able to delete it.....
Last edited:
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
I have the replacement studs and brass nuts to secure the down pipe. All the others are OK.
I just need to get the dam fing back on the road. I have drilled out the offending downpipe studs to within a nads of the thread and now need a tap to re cut them. Just wondering if I could chuck a nut and bolt through them to hold the exhaust flange on. Save me waiting for the tap to arrive.
Hellastony
Active Member
Apologies, I thought you were talking about the manifold bolts, not the others. Just drill them out and use anything to hand....
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Nut & bolt on flange.
Hellastony
Active Member
+1
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
Hmmmm
Wonder if I could stitch one on the flange itself with mi welder so the thread ............
No scratch that. I’d struggle getting at the nut under the inlet manifold.
Could have a go the other way. Just insert the stud in the enlarged hole and add a blob of weld on top of the manifold to hold it in.
It won’t be any more difficult to remove eventually as these wuz.
Wonder if I could stitch one on the flange itself with mi welder so the thread ............
No scratch that. I’d struggle getting at the nut under the inlet manifold.
Could have a go the other way. Just insert the stud in the enlarged hole and add a blob of weld on top of the manifold to hold it in.
It won’t be any more difficult to remove eventually as these wuz.
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Bolt to go downwards. just cut the head slightly so it wedges on the down pipe.
No I'm not going outside to photo as it's cold
No I'm not going outside to photo as it's cold
Could be worth a try. I’d do it from the top down to try to screw out the remaining thread out the bottom of the manifold. That’s a right tight space to access from underneath. I did my exhaust in the autumn. Getting the first down pipe section into position was also right tight squeeze. Had to jack up the front of the landy on the axle to get enough clearance. Good luck with it.
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
Yea I know what you mean. The last time I replaced it I had loads of bother and never ended up replacing the studs. It has been blowing a little at the manifold for three years
This time I will cut the old front pipe out and remove the n/s gearbox mount. It will slide through the gap once the box is jacked up a tad. This does actually work
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
I’ve only just come in. I know it’s ruddy coldBolt to go downwards. just cut the head slightly so it wedges on the down pipe.
No I'm not going outside to photo as it's cold
I know what you mean. The shoulders of the manifold outlet pipe are angled. The only other solution is take them down to flat with a grinder but one could risk the manifold itself.
Simon Perks
Active Member
I did nuts n bolts ... but had to take a bit off one flat of the bolt to get the angle right ... works fine though.
