cos the ones doing the shooting are friendly but as stupid as a shed load of self lubricating brakes

none of your electrics will work if your "light switch" is set to convoy. The 2 positions to the the right are for side and convoy lights, this will give you the 2 front side lights and the rear convoy light at the rear underneath. the first posistion to the right, will give you the rear convoy light underneath only. When on either of the convoy light positions, you will have no panel light, brake lights, horn, headlights or indicators. Hope this helps

98A 1/3m said:

none of your electrics will work if your "light switch" is set to convoy

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bollocks! and more bollocks!! if none of yer leccies worked what the **** give the engine it spark and don't the radios work on lectric

The little switch with the light in is for the brakes. There is a relay shuttle valve which moves if you get a leak in the brake pipe system. The brake system is arranged with two lines. If there is a break in either line, the relay valve moves so preserving the healthy part of the system (front or rear brakes - not both). The movement of this relay is supposed to illuminate a light in the amber switch. The switch is so you can test if lamp works. The downside to this system is that the shuttle valve can move when bleeding the brakes and getting it back is a real sod.

For the lights, you need to have the big rotary switch set to HSTL (aka head, side and tail lights). Anything less than this and various things stop working. When on convoy setting all you get is the comvoy light which is under the vehicle at the back near the rear cross member. The light shines onto a white spot on the back of the diff casing so squaddie behind could follow in the dark.

My 24V FFR has had problems with loss of indicators from time to time. I put this down to a sticky relay which with use seems to be OK now.

You will need to explain how all the ligths work when you go for an MOT as the tester will fail it otherwise.

The little switch with the light in is for the brakes. There is a relay shuttle valve which moves if you get a leak in the brake pipe system. The brake system is arranged with two lines. If there is a break in either line, the relay valve moves so preserving the healthy part of the system (front or rear brakes - not both). The movement of this relay is supposed to illuminate a light in the amber switch. The switch is so you can test if lamp works. The downside to this system is that the shuttle valve can move when bleeding the brakes and getting it back is a real sod.

For the lights, you need to have the big rotary switch set to HSTL (aka head, side and tail lights). Anything less than this and various things stop working. When on convoy setting all you get is the comvoy light which is under the vehicle at the back near the rear cross member. The light shines onto a white spot on the back of the diff casing so squaddie behind could follow in the dark.

My 24V FFR has had problems with loss of indicators from time to time. I put this down to a sticky relay which with use seems to be OK now.

s there an echo in here?

eh! what???

Ref bollocks, perhaps you misunderstood, it was mean't to read none of your lights would work. obviously you would not affect things like starter motor as veh would be useless

98A 1/3m said:

Ref bollocks, perhaps you misunderstood, it was mean't to read none of your lights would work. obviously you would not affect things like starter motor as veh would be useless

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yes your quite right i did misunderstand!! when you said "none of your electrics will work if your "light switch" is set to convoy" i read it as none of yer leccies will work. i really should pay more attention. please accept my most humble apolu..apoloo..apolee. ah **** it. you wrote what you wrote and not what you meant. if someone is asking about these things and you say ferkk all will work the poor dude will get his knickers in an uproar.

Sorry about the echo - AOL crashed whilst sending it and I felt sure I needed to resend it.

I'm nearly fed up with AOL.

steamcoaster said:

The little switch with the light in is for the brakes.

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thanks for that. the reason it doesn't do anything on mine is cos the wire isn't attached to the switch. this weekend is dedicated to the fitting of a new master cylinder (how the **** it got through the mot with it stuffed is beyond me) and crimping and rewiring the switch. of course, it maybe the previous owner yanked the lead off because the switch needs resetting - looks like a pig of a job. according to my neighbour (a cosworth owner, sniff) brake fluid is not meant to be black and cloudy, so i'd better change all that too.
if i find time, and it arrives, i might put my new carb on.

and... i found my hazard switch - its hidden under some paint and dirt. and it works.