Discodad said:
Why is it that every time I remove a hub (rear wheel bearing) the inner race stays put and ends up stuck on the stub axle.
Is this normal, how do you normally remove them.
Last time I used a dremel but its an ass of a job and I dont want to fook up the stub axle.
Click to expand...
Check them more often then :D they get like that from running dry and over heating, use a good waterproof grease and only timken bearings and OE seals, when fitting the seal make sure you fit it to the correct depth it will state it on the seal (around 4.5mm) this is the rear hub seal, also make sure the face the seal runs on is clean and smooth no nicks or burrs to wreck the lip quickly. I have 3 wheel bearings on mine done around 15K miles with alot of offroading rivers crossings etc and still good ( best go and check them tomorrow). But quality bearings and seals are very important as is a good waterproof grease.
 
Discodad said:
I meant the roller bearing has come apart and left the race on the stub axle. No way of prying it off as there is no gap behind it.

I guess its another case of cutting it very carefully with the dremel.
Click to expand...

Nick, it's because you stub axle will have a few bures on it from previous removals and these will just wedge the race tight, a bit of heat, a chisel or a bit bod brute force should doing but it will happen every time until you get a new stub, there is no need for one though except to stop this happening each time so it's not essential...
 
Well after day 3 of getting back to work and finding the windows on the Landy soaked on the inside I've decided this weekend shall involve fixing the heating fans, finding all the roof leaks and if I have, any glueing underlay to the roof. :)
 
Oh they all leak, this I accept I'm just trying to minimise the issue lol.
Would like to keep the sunroof but I will plate the roof if it's required.
Plus was to get the carpet out and check the floor plus gonna give the roof lining to Jim the trim.
 
As i said previously, mine was due to a disconnected aircon drain!

Oh and my screen got damaged today so ill have to make sure the new one is sealed good and proper!
 
Does anybody know or have a link on the most effective way of bleeding a 300tdi (apart from driving it off a pier, cos I think even after 15 years at the bottom of the ocean the dam thing will still have air in it)
 
djguy said:
Does anybody know or have a link on the most effective way of bleeding a 300tdi (apart from driving it off a pier, cos I think even after 15 years at the bottom of the ocean the dam thing will still have air in it)
Click to expand...

remove expansion tank cap.
remove rad plug.
remove stat plug.

on level ground, fill expansion tank till bubble free air comes out of rad plug hole.
replace rad plug and expansion tank cap.
fill thru stat plug hole till full.
(easier to put a funnel in and fill funnel. squeeze rad pipes till air bubbles stop appearing in funnel water)
replace stat plug.
 
blue beasty said:
remove expansion tank cap.
remove rad plug.
remove stat plug.

on level ground, fill expansion tank till bubble free air comes out of rad plug hole.
replace rad plug and expansion tank cap.
fill thru stat plug hole till full.
(easier to put a funnel in and fill funnel. squeeze rad pipes till air bubbles stop appearing in funnel water)
replace stat plug.
Click to expand...
Thank you :) I've spent hours looking at figferent forums and everyone says something different, I just wanted one answer :)))
 
Soon see tomorrow once the interior is ripped out hopefully.
Time to prey that the weather holds out. If anyone's bored their welcome to pop round, might even re-stock the tea making facilities......
 
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