jdandcoke
New Member
my mates bmw kept throwing brown gunk out. turned out to be a cracked water/oil heat exchanger. don't know if the 200 has one but thought it worth a mention
my mates bmw kept throwing brown gunk out. turned out to be a cracked water/oil heat exchanger. don't know if the 200 has one but thought it worth a mention
Jongould
New Member
No, nothing that technical on this. I have changed rad, stat and belt today and all seems good, sits at 80-85 degrees (75 degree stat in it)when revving 2500 at a standstill, held like that for 5 mins so im happy now... the rad almost fell apart when i took it out so it was needed...
discomark10
Well-Known Member
atleast its sorted ay
m10 fine pitch.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
are you sure ? that would only be a 17mm socket needed
666 george
Well-Known Member
so heres a wee pic for you graham she's finally lifted
About time, what does it handle like. Hopefully not like a shopping trolley.
666 george
Well-Known Member
If it's M10 fine it will be 1.0mm
wangie46
Active Member
dont know yet as the shocks are just flapping around in the turrets as i didnt have any nuts for the shock,s drove it up the road slowly and i didnt have any vibrations so hopefull i wont have to change any thing else, will hopefully get to the motor factors in the morn and see if they have any nuts then i will know
no i am not - it was based on the info supplied. if the OP supplies diameter & tpi, then we can be more precise.
wangie46
Active Member
cheers guys defo m10 size nut they are delphi decardon+2" shocks thought i could use the nuts off the old shocks but they are 19 mm spanner size and are too big, hopefully the local motor factors will have some in stock
Discodad
Well-Known Member
Just striped and cleaned front hub ready for new bearing.
The sheared drive flange bolt is too deep to get out.
Do I leave it and just rely on the remaining four? Or replace the hub (maybe from a breaker).
Trouble is I have a potential deal on a 110 coming up so maybe selling or given current prices, breaking the disco?
The sheared drive flange bolt is too deep to get out.
Do I leave it and just rely on the remaining four? Or replace the hub (maybe from a breaker).
Trouble is I have a potential deal on a 110 coming up so maybe selling or given current prices, breaking the disco?
discomark10
Well-Known Member
well a big thanks to jon for my lift kit, finally got it all fitted today just got to get some nuts for the front top shocks, does any one know the pitch of the nut as its not a standard m10 its got a finer thread?
so heres a wee pic for you graham she's finally lifted
i think they are bsf, are they the same as the diff case nuts?
Ohh, no not bsf... 3/8th's unf! thats the bugger
Last edited:
Co-Pang-Yang
Well-Known Member
Defender pricing confuses the crap out of me.
I am still no closer to figuring out what 4x4 to replace the 3 door with in October.
Now for the price of an average 300tdi Disco you can't get a 90 even close to the same age for the money.
Yet looking at Disco II's and you can pick up TD5 powered 90's for not a lot more.
Not gonna lie, it's a tempting prospect.
I am still no closer to figuring out what 4x4 to replace the 3 door with in October.
Now for the price of an average 300tdi Disco you can't get a 90 even close to the same age for the money.
Yet looking at Disco II's and you can pick up TD5 powered 90's for not a lot more.
Not gonna lie, it's a tempting prospect.
matthew2riches
New Member
Just striped and cleaned front hub ready for new bearing.
The sheared drive flange bolt is too deep to get out.
Do I leave it and just rely on the remaining four? Or replace the hub (maybe from a breaker).
Trouble is I have a potential deal on a 110 coming up so maybe selling or given current prices, breaking the disco?
Just stick 4 in if you're getting the tratter. If not, you can pop over and we can play in the ford here and you can have a hub off something here.
matthew2riches
New Member
Mikey is going to sort me some arms out. I am going to weld up some rear trailing arms from CDS then get the wide angles bolted on.
Got a few other bits to sort then will give the chassis a warm bubble bath to bring it back to its usual galvanised finish.
Then I'll be back on the scene!!
Got a few other bits to sort then will give the chassis a warm bubble bath to bring it back to its usual galvanised finish.
Then I'll be back on the scene!!
James1966
Active Member
Just striped and cleaned front hub ready for new bearing.
The sheared drive flange bolt is too deep to get out.
Do I leave it and just rely on the remaining four? Or replace the hub (maybe from a breaker).
Trouble is I have a potential deal on a 110 coming up so maybe selling or given current prices, breaking the disco?
Have you tried tapping it around with a punch or centre punch, if its not bottomed out there will not be much holding it in. May be thread locked, in which case a blow torch wil help.
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
Decent quality easy out and a hole dead centre should have that out.
666 george
Well-Known Member
Here you go Nick, this is what you need.
Screw Extractor Set | Screwfix.com
Just centre punch hole in the middle & then drill a small hole for the extractor to screw into, left hand thread will then undo it.
Screw Extractor Set | Screwfix.com
Just centre punch hole in the middle & then drill a small hole for the extractor to screw into, left hand thread will then undo it.
