tottot
Well-Known Member
Tim is right, there are a lot of rubbish parts out there and not necessary in a blue box [ I think they have upped their game some of late ] Some of the stuff on the fleabay is terrible.
Tim is right, there are a lot of rubbish parts out there and not necessary in a blue box [ I think they have upped their game some of late ] Some of the stuff on the fleabay is terrible.
Pappasmurf
Well-Known Member
Not all parts are useless, I havent bought anything broken. But then I refuse to buy britpart.
ECU? I don't think I have electronics. I hope not, if all I've got look forward to is your experience. I'm pretty certain there can only be about 50 things that go wrong with mine. I even know I'll need a new engine down the line, but not the things you've listed (I hope).
Ive done several on my 1993 90, got so good at them could do both rears in 45 minutes!
Did the earlier axles still allow the diff oil to mix with the bearings as per series motors?
I know my mates early 90 has some weird seal set up that we had not seen before.
To be fair i havent done any on it for about 4 years, but in them four years Ive only done about 500 miles!
Whereas for the previous four/five odd years it was my everyday car.
Tim4x4
Well-Known Member
Island gen crank sensors cost £232.00 cant find one for £160.00 at Island.
Tim4x4
Well-Known Member
I went into ownership of a Defender with my eyes open knowing that I would have work on my hands to keep it in good order, I dont have any issues with components on the vehicle coming to the end of their useful life. I travel around 12,000 miles each year it works for me just right. I have no issue with the amount of money I spend on it, I have no issue with the amount of time I spend working on it. Yes I love driving it, I get a workout each day when driving it not a problem.
My issue is that parts purchased as a replacement and they DONOT work. It would be great that they fail prematurely but NO they are useless from the get go and these are gen factory replacements. I have as full a history as is possible for the vehicle (now I couldn't stand up in court and swear by it) but my records do not indicate that a crank sensor has been replaced previously. I have completed 68,000 miles of the 112,00 recorded so a good life for something that is in a relatively hostile environment, so I have no qualms in going to my local main dealer and purchasing a replacement sensor. I could have purchased one that was very cheep but no because it was a critical part that if failed will stop the vehicle from making any further progress I purchased a gen part regardless of the cost (because the cost is not the issue). After fitting the sensor, a straightforward task I expected it to burst into life at the turn of the key but no, nothing, zilch. Under normal circumstances I would be scratching my head thinking the fault lay elsewhere but not this time because I knew the original sensor was at fault 100% and a good one would fix it. Meter out check continuity of new sensor no continuity should have a reading but nothing a FAULTY unit. Wife goes to local independent gets a £17.00 one I fit it engine bursts into life on the starter.
That is my issue a genuine part that I believed would be restoring the Defender back to as reliable as it always is did nothing of the sorts.
lightning
Well-Known Member
Sometimes enough is indeed enough.
We had two Defender TD5’s my missus had a 90 and l have a 110.
I love Defenders but running two as daily drivers was just too expensive. Every week there was something to do, and parts to change.
We sold the 90 last year and l kept my 110
After all mine has now done 112,000 and the missus’s 125,000 when we sold it. So l would expect higher maintenance than a modern car.
My 110 CSW runs great, l do 12,000 miles a year using it for my business, it took me two years to get on top of all the jobs on the 110 and now it’s just routine maintenance.
I fit some OE parts but usually go aftermarket due to the extortionate prices from LR.
I’ve never had any issues with parts that l’ve bought not working or failing prematurely, but the Defender is only used as a car so doesn’t get hammered.
We had two Defender TD5’s my missus had a 90 and l have a 110.
I love Defenders but running two as daily drivers was just too expensive. Every week there was something to do, and parts to change.
We sold the 90 last year and l kept my 110
After all mine has now done 112,000 and the missus’s 125,000 when we sold it. So l would expect higher maintenance than a modern car.
My 110 CSW runs great, l do 12,000 miles a year using it for my business, it took me two years to get on top of all the jobs on the 110 and now it’s just routine maintenance.
I fit some OE parts but usually go aftermarket due to the extortionate prices from LR.
I’ve never had any issues with parts that l’ve bought not working or failing prematurely, but the Defender is only used as a car so doesn’t get hammered.
Pappasmurf
Well-Known Member
Perhaps this is an issue you need to raise with JLR. They won't actually care of cause because they don't care unless your car is in warranty, but at least they might give you a replacement part.
But as said before, I am yet to have an issue with any parts, Genuine or Aftermarket.
Tim4x4
Well-Known Member
I decided to dismantle the new gen LR sensor to see what it is made of, I wish in a way I hadn't. On dismantling a simple task just to prise it open and withdraw the outer cover I found a whole bunch of the coil wire loose not attached to the terminal they should have been soldered to (no solder on the terminal) but trapped between the outer case and the plastic body. No way on earth could this have ever worked, I decided that I would solder the wires to the terminal but no way they would not reach the terminal. So that's why they weren't soldered cut off too short, removing the enamel from the coil wire I soldered a piece of suitable wire to extend them and then soldered that to the terminal. Tested for continuity was in business, proceeded to tidy up the remaining coil wires carefully winding them into a tidy coil and securing them with tape reassembling the sensor. I now fitted it the vehicle and it worked, engine burst into life a short drive confirmed all to be OK.
Now I am happy I not only have one good sensor but two good sensors. I have refitted the inexpensive one and keeping the gen LR sensor as a spare only to see how reliable the inexpensive one is.
I am still not a happy bunny because there is no way that that gen LR sensor could have had any final inspection and test or the fault would have been spotted and the goods sent out. It is a UK based company that make the sensors, it says so on the label. I just despair.
Now I am happy I not only have one good sensor but two good sensors. I have refitted the inexpensive one and keeping the gen LR sensor as a spare only to see how reliable the inexpensive one is.
I am still not a happy bunny because there is no way that that gen LR sensor could have had any final inspection and test or the fault would have been spotted and the goods sent out. It is a UK based company that make the sensors, it says so on the label. I just despair.
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Welcome back, long time no see
Tim4x4
Well-Known Member
Contacting JLR is pointless they will do what they are legally required to do (why should they do any more), yes I should have been able to get a replacement part and they would have been required to do that (but I dismantled it that changed things).
Let me take you through the ECU saga: The ECU on my vehicle got wet (over enthusiastic wading) I got it home with a little help from my friends. Drained and removed the top cover dried out the ECU and treated it to a little electronics cleaner, refitted it and hey it worked fine. Now more than one person suggested that it may have suffered some damage and may not be reliable. OK then I ordered a new ECU from local main dealer priced at around £600.00 next day delivery, had it fitted by an independent that they the main dealer recommended. All was good for around 6 months in fact it was better than with the old ECU because the new one could be programmed and an updated fuel map was loaded and it improved the fueling (not a performance map). It then died whilst out one day recovered home vehicle checked over found that the ECU had died thats the new one of course. Fitted the old ECU running again, returned the new broken unit to main dealer who said that they would have to send it back for testing before I could see any money. Thats OK I said just give me another one oh no it dont work like that if you want another one first you must purchase one then if the first on is found to be a manufacturing fault you will get a refund. 6 months to get that refund. Now the second replacement did take some getting a JLR had no stock but they found one in the group you know that that did not work out of the box and cost me an additional £300.00 to get it repaired before it could be fitted.
NOW THATS WHY I AM NOT A HAPPY BUNNY and what I mean by parts of poor construction reaching the customer.
Pappasmurf
Well-Known Member
That is the exact reason why I would never go any more technologically advanced than a 300tdi. You can fix them with a hammer and new parts can be manufactured by a little man in a mud hut in the middle of Africa. I avoid anything that has an ECU, ever since my nightmare with an E46 BMW 320D. Hell, I'd have a carb'd engine in my Ninety if I could.
lightning
Well-Known Member
Welcome back, long time no see
Thank you!
flat
Well-Known Member
Yeah mine do, mine is an earlier model. I definitely think that makes a massive difference to wheel bearing longevity.
I *think* you can get a similar effect on later axles by leaving out a seal
Ive had my s2 longer than the 90 and whilst now I treat it better, I used to beat it about pretty bad and in about 10 yrs its had one wheel bearing and I reckon the oily/greasy snot they run in is excellent for their longevity.
If I ever pull the 90 hubs down again I might try and leave the half shaft seal out and see how it goes.
lightning
Well-Known Member
Another thing about Defenders, l was buying a van for my business every few years, the last was a Transit Connect in 2008.
By 2014 and 80,000 miles the van was beginning to give trouble, and l sold it for £4,000.....a loss of £10,000 on the purchase price of £14,000.
I then paid £14,000 for my 110 and after 5 years and 60,000 miles it’s still running great and is worth more than l paid for it !!
Sure, it’s cost more in maintenance than running a van, but not as much as the losses in depreciation.
Fuel consumption is not that different tbh. The transit did about 32mpg round town, and the 110 does 28mpg (26mpg before it was remapped)
And l’ve lost count of the customers who have said how much they like my Defender.
By 2014 and 80,000 miles the van was beginning to give trouble, and l sold it for £4,000.....a loss of £10,000 on the purchase price of £14,000.
I then paid £14,000 for my 110 and after 5 years and 60,000 miles it’s still running great and is worth more than l paid for it !!
Sure, it’s cost more in maintenance than running a van, but not as much as the losses in depreciation.
Fuel consumption is not that different tbh. The transit did about 32mpg round town, and the 110 does 28mpg (26mpg before it was remapped)
And l’ve lost count of the customers who have said how much they like my Defender.
flat
Well-Known Member
Definitely. Must have a sight cooling effect maybe as the oil ‘circulates’?
I change my diff oil every other year
lightning
Well-Known Member
Why did you buy a new ECU when your old one was working fine? You did the right thing, in cleaning and treating the PCB and it was working.
Why swap out a working part.
You spent £900 on an ECU and sensor, neither of which ended up on the vehicle. I have done the same in the past, and it does tend to make you fed up!
Why swap out a working part.
You spent £900 on an ECU and sensor, neither of which ended up on the vehicle. I have done the same in the past, and it does tend to make you fed up!
