mikeP38

New Member
My P38a has the v8 4.6 litre petrol engine. It had been overheating on a couple of occasions, my local garage replaced the coolant cap. But this seemed to settle down, I wasn't doing long journeys and carried spare water in the boot just in case. Then I started to experience really bad mis-firing, the engine would be OK for a while then it would begin to mis-fire with associated loss of power, so bad it wouldn't even drive over a speed bump, finally cutting out altogether.
So I finally decided to call out the AA home start. The engine started up and ran ok to begin with then began to misfire,
They were unable to connect their landrover dignostics, but were ableto identify some ECBD fault codes using their standard equipment:
P1174 - system too lean bank 2
P1171 - system too lean bank 1
oxygen sensor bank 2 no activity detected
P0103 - mass or volume air flow circuit high
There was a hissing noise coming from the coolant cap, this was removed slowly, he performed a test of the coolant which showed CO2 present he suggested that since there was exhaust gas in the coolant system we were probably looking at a cblown cylinder head gasket.
The oil is clear and not milky.
Any suggestions guys??
 
Possible HGF....symptoms are there...

Just cos there is no milky stuff on the oil cap doesn't mean it isn't the HG...just means it hasn't blown between an oil and water way (yet)

Do a compression check...both engine cold and hot!

GEMS or THOR....

Both simple enough to do, although GEMS is easier!
 
overheating a Rover V8 will nearly always cause damage.

If seems like saint says, HGF.. when was the water pump last changed ? do a waterpump with you head gaskets there's little point doing the head gasket to have the causing problem still there. it'll only happen again.
 
15 mins later & £15 lighter all will be good again;)
 

Attachments

  • holts-wondarweld-hi.jpg
    holts-wondarweld-hi.jpg
    39.6 KB · Views: 229
overheating a Rover V8 will nearly always cause damage.

If seems like saint says, HGF.. when was the water pump last changed ? do a waterpump with you head gaskets there's little point doing the head gasket to have the causing problem still there. it'll only happen again.

Waterpump was changed last summer when it seized causing overheating then, all ok since then upto now
 
If you have got a cracked block - the only product which will (and does) work is Irontite ceramic motor seal - if you follow the instructions to a T.

It WILL wreck your water pump (little ceramic particles will make it past the seal and wreck the bearing) so replace that again after about 3 months.

Even so, your running issue sounds more like a dodgy MAF.
 
If you have got a cracked block - the only product which will (and does) work is Irontite ceramic motor seal - if you follow the instructions to a T.

It WILL wreck your water pump (little ceramic particles will make it past the seal and wreck the bearing) so replace that again after about 3 months.

Even so, your running issue sounds more like a dodgy MAF.

Don't know why people thing he has a cracked block, could be HGF or porous/cracked head. Don't think hissing from the filler cap is a dodgy MAF.:D
 
Don't know why people thing he has a cracked block, could be HGF or porous/cracked head. Don't think hissing from the filler cap is a dodgy MAF.:D


I'm talking about the poor pick up - a rover V8 - even with 1 or 2 cylinders down - usually run acceptably well if a little lumpy and down on power.
 
OK well aiming to do a compression test over the weekend..located a mate with the kit who'se free to help me Monday night, I'll hopefully know whether its 'just' a head gasket then all being well
 
No, it won't work buit what it will do is clog up your cooling system & give you a lot of extra grief.

yes it does work have you actually tried it ? I know to atleast 6 v8 p38s which were treated with wondaweld without any issues & 100 % results,i agree a mechanical fix is always best but sadly some people havnt the time/ money or space/conditions to do this + 1 with alan check h/g first.
 
Last edited:
Never used it on a V8, but I have used steel seal on a Rover 25 1.4 K series.

The Daughter has one, and 18 months ago it had HGF. It was so bad you could see oil / water being pushed out between the head / block. Had to stop 3 times on a 7 mile journey getting the car home from her work.

Someone recommended steal seal (£30, money back if it didn't work)

So off i trot to GSF and buy a bottle. I asked the chap behind the counter what it was like. "Loads of traders but it" says he "Not had one comeback and complain".

So, since the car is worth about £400, and I'd get £150 scrap, I thought I'd give it go.

Followed the instructions to the letter/ Then drained 7 litres of chocolate milkshake from the sump. Put some used (3K miles from the TVR) 20/50 in and checked coolant level.

That was about 18 months ago.

The car is still running, hasn't used a drop of water and has done 10,000 miles!


Don't think it'll sort a slipped liner though.
 
Have you checked the radiator for a blockage, if it is, it may be causing a hot/cold spot that a sensor is picking up and feeding the engine ecu with incorrect engine fuel requirements. Thus causing mis-firing and bad starting when hot. Good luck
 
yes it does work have you actually tried it ? I know to atleast 6 v8 p38s which were treated with wondaweld without any issues & 100 % results,i agree a mechanical fix is always best but sadly some people havnt the time/ money or space/conditions to do this + 1 with alan check h/g first.

Yes, i tried this on my first car. Cured a leaking rad but eventually blocked my cooling system & blew a HG. Bad mistake but learnt from.
Irontite is a better option as said as you flush the system afterwards.
 

Similar threads