rover75lover

rover75lover

Active Member
Hi all
1998 rangerover p38 auto diesel
Finally biting the bullet and going to change the engine complete with another as after two heads, rad, water pump, thermostat, still getting combustion gasses in the water and overheats.
I have the later p 38 with the vacuum pump on it etc. Plastic manifold, plastic oil filter body etc.
Will this fit OK into mine as it had a metal inlet, no vac pump etc
Going with this engine as the seller has given me a 30 day warranty and I couldn't find an earlier one with a warranty
Many thanks
 
There are few differences that will be problematic but I’ve seen it done.

The members here will help you.

Trouble seems to be if you try to mismatch early/late top/bottom ends. straight swap can be made to work. It’s the BECM that would scare me. Earlier version has lower power on paper but mostly the same
 
If you are fitting the later engine, all that is needed is to plumb the IAT sensor from the alloy manifold into the plastic manifold. Blank off the vac pump or remove it, but i do not think the blanking plate from the early engine will fit unless the cam bolt that drives the vac pump is changed for the earlier version. You may also have to play with turbo pipe to manifold.
 
rover75lover said:
Hi all
1998 rangerover p38 auto diesel
Finally biting the bullet and going to change the engine complete with another as after two heads, rad, water pump, thermostat, still getting combustion gasses in the water and overheats.
I have the later p 38 with the vacuum pump on it etc. Plastic manifold, plastic oil filter body etc.
Will this fit OK into mine as it had a metal inlet, no vac pump etc
Going with this engine as the seller has given me a 30 day warranty and I couldn't find an earlier one with a warranty
Many thanks
Click to expand...
Easy swap, no real difficulties as Wammers said.
 
No you don't have to change injector or ecu. Plastic manifold can be changed to the alloy one and if you remove the vac pump you will find a protrusion on the cam bolt that stops the blanking plate from the old engine fitting. This protrusion be taken off or the bolt replaced with the old one. Be careful the cam and sprocket don't move if you replace. Basically just swap bits over so it looks like the original engine. Did with mine and it runs ok.
 
stemac33 said:
No you don't have to change injector or ecu. Plastic manifold can be changed to the alloy one and if you remove the vac pump you will find a protrusion on the cam bolt that stops the blanking plate from the old engine fitting. This protrusion be taken off or the bolt replaced with the old one. Be careful the cam and sprocket don't move if you replace. Basically just swap bits over so it looks like the original engine. Did with mine and it runs ok.
Click to expand...
Plastic manifold cannot always be changed over to alloy one.
 
rover75lover said:
Many thanks, so I don't have to change the engine ecu or the 4th injector?
Click to expand...

Later forth injector will not plug into the early harness. If you are not running EGR and MAF for which you would need the later engine loom. Old ECU can be used
 
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