storm · Nov 3, 2009

Hi Everyone,
Can anyone please help or give any suggestions.
1995 4.0SE Auto P38 (67K).

The engine starts & runs fine, idle is smooth & car drives well, but after 10-15mins the engine will just stop, no warning or coughing, just stops as quickly as if turned off by the key. This happens if Rangie is being driven or just left idling on the driveway.

Thanks

andyb66 · Nov 3, 2009

Sounds engine temperature related to me.

Try disconnecting the temperature sensor and seeing if that makes a difference.

storm · Nov 4, 2009

andyb66 said:
Sounds engine temperature related to me.

Try disconnecting the temperature sensor and seeing if that makes a difference.

Temp gauge works & shows normal temp, but I'll try that.
Thanks

gavbriggs · Nov 4, 2009

is it always ten mins? you could do with it plugged in whilst it does it, see if there is any data you can see

storm · Nov 4, 2009

gavbriggs said:
is it always ten mins? you could do with it plugged in whilst it does it, see if there is any data you can see

Unfortunately I don't have T book or anything, nearest is about 45-60 mins away!

classic kev · Nov 4, 2009

storm said:
Temp gauge works & shows normal temp, but I'll try that.
Thanks

I think andyb means the temperature sensor that feeds the ecu (coolant temperarture thermistor) not the sender for the temp gauge unless the newer engines have only one sensor for coolant temperature (seems unlikely??)

storm · Nov 5, 2009

classic kev said:
I think andyb means the temperature sensor that feeds the ecu (coolant temperarture thermistor) not the sender for the temp gauge unless the newer engines have only one sensor for coolant temperature (seems unlikely??)

Where do I find which wire to disconnect? If this solves problem, is it just a case of changing the thermistor? & where is it?

Many thanks

gavbriggs · Nov 5, 2009

you can get general obd tools to read engine stuff, mebbe you know someone who can help

storm · Nov 5, 2009

gavbriggs said:
you can get general obd tools to read engine stuff, mebbe you know someone who can help

Sorry to be thick! what are obd tools? would a small local garage be likely to have them? If there are stored faults are they likely to present problems until they are cleared? can they only be cleared by specialised LR equipment?
Thanks

storm · Nov 6, 2009

Hi Guys,

Someone has told me it could possible be either the Cranksharft Sensor', Airflow Meter MAF or Lambdas. What do you think?

andyb66 · Nov 6, 2009

Crankshaft sensor is the only one of those that will bring the engine to a stop. Will run with default/limp home values for the others.

I mentioned temperature sensor as I wondered if it was cutting out when it was not using the cold start.

I think you need to find a mobile automotive electrical chap who can do LR diagnostics. If you include your location in your profile someone maybe able to recommend someone close to you.

storm · Nov 6, 2009

Hi Andy,

Thanx for info. She starts instantly & idles/runs fine, but then just cuts out when warmed up. I got AA out, he connected a spark plug to ht lead & turned engine out, but there was no spark, he couldn't find why. Then it suddenly just started. So it sounds like something get warm cuts & once it cools is ok!!
You mensioned disconnecting temp sensor, is this the wire that connects to the sensor that screws into the engine? or is there another one that goes to the ecu?

nathan5346 · Nov 6, 2009

Mine had similar symptoms turned out melted coil causing mis-firing and sometime blowing fuse 26

storm · Nov 6, 2009

No sign of misfire when running is very smooth.

andyb66 · Nov 6, 2009

I'm going to stick my neck out and say "crank shaft sensor". Handy to know that there is no spark

nathan5346 · Nov 6, 2009

shoudve added that from cold it started and drove fine until it warmed up, certainly worth checking coil packs - leads etc

storm · Nov 6, 2009

andyb66 said:
I'm going to stick my neck out and say "crank shaft sensor". Handy to know that there is no spark

Thanks Andy, is it accessable & easy to change? & will it need any set-up after?
Thank again, oh I have now added my loacation, new to this.

Ratae · Nov 6, 2009

Stop guessing.
Otherwise you are going to go down the road of random part swapping which MIGHT get you there but usually doesn't & works out expensive!
Get the fault codes read by someone who knows what they are doing AND has proper diagnostic kit for LR as the general OBD readers often miss the target.
Now your location is in hopefully someone can give you the details of a local man.

You might want to get a manual: http://green-oval.com/joomla/index.php Look in their 'downloads' section.

andyb66 · Nov 6, 2009

storm said:
is it accessable & easy to change? & will it need any set-up after?

It is on the flywheel housing and no you just change it.

Best bet is to test all sparks when it has stopped. If you have no spark on any plug then it is crank shaft sensor otherwise as Nathan has pointed out it is most likely a coil pack. The lead to coil pack relationship is not logical and one pack does plugs on both sides of the engine so don't be fooled by apparent random failure.

@Ratae. No one on this thread is guessing. I for one am using experience. However, I agree that LR diagnostic kit is this best way forward........but then I think I may have said that too......about half a dozen replies ago

billybuilder · Nov 6, 2009

Did not realise i had an expert right on my doorstep Andy, my old 97 HSE and me live at Boscombe East.

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